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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, first a list of tools/materials you will need.

Metric Allen (hex) wrench set
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and 19mm sockets
10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and 19mm wrenches
Various extensions for the ratchet/air tools
Pry bars
White Lithium grease (NOT THE SPRAY)
Brake Cleaner
PB Blaster
Transmission fluid

If you are working on a bugeye, you'll also need a pin punch and a hammer to remove the axles from the transmission.

Now get the car on a lift or jackstands. Make sure if it's on jackstands that you can comfortably be on your side under there and that the car is securely. Start draining the transmission fluid, you'll thank me later.


#1- Pull the TMIC

#2- Unbolt the downpipe, dogbone, starter, slave cylinder, and the little spring. All you will need is a 14mm ratchet and a 17mm box wrench I believe. From here on NOBODY TOUCHES THE CLUTCH PEDAL.

#3- Using a 10mm allen wrench, pull the cover off the clutch fork pin. It's just below where you pulled the slave cylinder off. Then using a fairly strong magnet pull the pin out. You may have to wiggle the clutch fork as you do this.

#4- Take the other two upper bolts out of the transmission, one on each side. 14mm again and these are fairly long. Also, disconnect all the electrical connections. Don't forget about the ground that is attached to the firewall.

#5- Climb under the car and drop the driveshaft cover off the rear axle, 14mm again.

#6- Lock the e-brake and unbolt the driveshaft. You'll have to let off the e-brake in order to turn it to get to all the bolts. Also pull the carrier bearing. Pull the driveshaft toward the rear while supporting both sides of the carrier bearing.

#7- Disconnect the front axles. Depending on the year, this will need either a pin punch and hammer or a small pry bar. You may find it easier to unbolt the spindle from the strut OR disconnect the tie rod and ball joint in order to get the axles off the transmission.

#8- Disconnect the shifter linkage as well as the support, these are 12mm. Keep track of the bushings as they can fall out.

#9- Unbolt the cross braces from the frame and from the transmission. It can be done without taking the 3 pieces apart.

#10- Pull the remaining transmission bolts along with the 2 nuts. Again, 14mm

#11- With the help of either a low profile jack or a friend, pull the transmission towards the back of the car and lower it to the ground.

Now to the pressure plate and clutch.
If you have an impact wrench, it comes in really handy right now. Unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel using the 12mm socket. Pull it off the locator pins and remove the old clutch. Switch over to a 14mm and unbolt the flywheel from the crank. Carefully remove it, it's going to be heavy.


1. Clean out the old clutch material from the bell housing of the transmission and the back of the engine using brake cleaner.

2. Lube the throw-out bearing guide around the input shaft of the transmission, and the "ears" of the throw-out bearing. Slip the bearing onto the guide, insert the clutch fork, and secure it with the pin you removed in step 3.

3. Press the new pilot bearing into the new or resurfaced flywheel

4. Bolt the flywheel to the crank. Evenly tighten the bolts. Clean the flywheel with brake cleaner. While you have the cleaner out, clean off the pressure plate too.

5. Using the alignment tool supplied with the new clutch, place the new clutch disc and pressure plate onto the flywheel. Be sure to line up the locator pins. Bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel, evenly tightening bolts all the way around. Remove the alignment tool.

6. Lube the alignment tool on the tip and the spines, reinsert the tool to lube the pilot bearing and the clutch splines. Wipe off any excess. This will help when putting the transmission back in as well as prevent any noise.

7. Install transmission. Carefully line up the input shaft and wiggle it into place. You may have to use the long bolts to help draw it in. Once it's in, reverse the teardown steps and you have a new clutch.

Give the car at a minimum 500 miles to break the clutch in. This means NO LAUNCHING, and granny shift everything.

This is going off memory from the numerous clutches I've done. I should have pics up in a week or two.
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