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attach is my clutch .. manual says no break in is needed for stage 3 copper ceramic clutch but since my engine is under the break in process before I have not been pushing my clutch too. All in all everything is about 2000 miles.

So I got my 820cc injectors already boss Robo is it safe to install them and drive off to my tuner? its about 70miles drive. btw. Every since I have been using Cobb STi injector economy MAP which is intended for EJ20 with sti injectors.
Your tuner should be able to send you a limp map to drive over there with the new mods.

If you're on open source tune there's an injector scaling set of tables the info for which should come with your injectors or can be located on the internet, this will get you into the ball park and you could carefully drive to get fully tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Your tuner should be able to send you a limp map to drive over there with the new mods.

If you're on open source tune there's an injector scaling set of tables the info for which should come with your injectors or can be located on the internet, this will get you into the ball park and you could carefully drive to get fully tuned.
I don't think he can provide me that basic or limp map right now the shop is really busy that's why I'm on the waiting list for a month :(

as for the open source. Since I already have an accessport I decided to go with accesstuner instead :D but I'm planning to do it later on once I get it initially tuned.

another option I can go there two hours early and install the 820cc injectors there on site but this might be a fire safety issue ill be bleeding fuel with a hot or warm engine. I think this is not an option Lol!

btw. my appointment is 930am and he told me given my upgrades it will take him 4 to 5 hours even 6hrs to tune my car and it cost $600. so them changing my injectors on site is not possible it will consume more time and I guess few hundreds more :(
 

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if you don't have the injector guards it only takes minutes to change out injectors. I can literally replace both sides in 15 minutes.

Where are you getting tuned? Even with a full speed density tune with all of my mods took my tuner only 3 hrs to complete. And that included letting the car shut off and cool a few times. But he is called Subie Jesus for a reason (partially because of his long hair lol).
 

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Discussion Starter #84
yup I don't have the injector guard anymore and I have a kinugawa fuel rail yeah I could probably take out the injector on site but I'm concern about bleeding the fuel on site by myself they might not allow me to do it.

only two tuners are close to me GST performance which only around 30min drive and base on the review the owner (tuner) is very good.. but base also on the reviews the guy got some social disorder lol! Think first impression for him is very important and if he doesn't like you he will never like you haha! I went there to inquire about tuning my car .. I was turn down he told me all tuning are done over the phone you have to call the office.. funny thing is the phone and the office is just behind lol! what a jerk! I told him cant it be done right now? set a tuning schedule for my car? he replied no its impossible ( again the office is just behind ) so I just say thank you and went on my way ... two days later I called to set an appointment I was able to the wife she's nice but I think he recognize it was me on the phone.... They told me we cant tune your hybrid engine :(

2nd tuner is Equilibrium tuning its at Fairfield CA about 1 hr 30min drive from my place I have a schedule there April 17, finally! :D
 

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Car looks mean man!

But I don't know what you mean about bleeding the fuel. When you replace the injectors a very little amount of fuel should drip/come out. Once you replace the injectors all you have to do is turn you key to the on and off position 3x to let the fuel pump prime. Then start the car. Should start first time if not second. There is no harm done to engine if it doesn't start.

I mean this is something you could do maybe at a parking lot down the street if your really worried and then baby it the few ft. But I am sure if you called an asked that shop they wouldn't care as long as you make the booked time.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I mean once you turn off the ignition key a 39psi fuel pressure still remain inside the fuel line usually it takes couple of hours before it goes down to zero pressure but even if the fuel pressure is 0 again I have a kinugawa fuel rail and AN6 fuel line which hold lots of fuel. I don't know how to drain the fuel on site safely.. attach are some photos :) btw. yeah I deleted my TGV but I needed the sensors so the old TGV are hanging on the side of my engine for the past 2000miles Lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #88
So my motor and tranny mount came today which ill be installing come Monday. ill be installing also that flywheel cover plate I don't have one right now and I got myself also an H brace support but I'm thinking of replacing also my front control arm before I install the H brace support.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
update : I finally got her dyno tuned but I'm disappointed with the results ..stupid stupid me I installed back my oem wrx downpipe about 5 weeks ago. The tuner told me right away we cant get any mush power out of it coz of that stock downpipe :( I use to have a straight 3" downpipe it was loud and it was catless you can smell it. one time 5 weeks ago a cop was tailing me then beside me then in front of me really looking at my car usual I got scared of the cop soon as I got home cool down the engine install back my oem down pipe .......... another stupid question is their a difference between wrx stock downpipe and an sti one? they are both the same 2.5" right?

attach is my FB page with the dyno video..

https://www.facebook.com/michael.r.agustin/videos/vb.738069367/10156115091049368/?type=3&theater
 

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I'm actually running a cheapo Rev9 downpipe that was originally catted. The fit was great and build quality was not bad at all. I'm just saying that because it was fairly inexpensive.
 

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I'd be careful with generic/eBay downpipes. I had one that came on my wrx and after a dyno day it cracked all around the flange and fell off while driving. That was in FL yet t was still rusted to hell.

WRX/STi DPs should be the same, the main difference is the UP which is catless on the STi.

Your DP shouldn't be skimped on unless you don't mind replacing it every so often. I'm currently running a Invidia catless DP and yeah it's loud (enough to hear the td04 whistle on a basemap), would I like it to be a bit toned down sometimes..yeah. Do I get funny looks from the fuzz, sometimes but usually they don't mind if I'm not driving like an ass. Heck I've been pulled over here in NY for having FL tags (legally) and they don't even question the exhaust and just let me go, I think it's because they appreciate a nice car and a respectful driver.

We have more strict inspection/emissions laws here so I think you'll be okay. Otherwise get a cheapo DP and keep it in the trunk and show them you're on your way to get it installed lol. If you don't have to pass a "sniffer" test then I'd say get a used OEM DP and gut it (you know if the cat is shot) and throw it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Update : I got myself a used Cobb downpipe got it for $250 in mint condition…waaahoooo!
Its loud but not that loud compare to my straight downpipe before and it doesn’t have that stinky smell because of the Cat. And also I recently installed a Tomie fuel regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Millage with my 820cc injectors before with my OEM downpipe and fuel regulator protuned/dyno tune im doing around 18 to 19MPG but right after I install my cobb downpipe and my tomie fuel regulator non-tuned… im down to 17 to 18MPG… this is street/highway miles with aggressive driving here and there. I guess I need to get my car tuned again??
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Recent problem about a two years ago my radiator fan got toast so I got myself a aftermarket radiator fan its about 1,200 cfm with a shroud. It works just with fine with my EJ205 engine.. but after swapping my hybrid engine in last Jan. I notice my temp went up im hitting 210F winter time I already know this will not do come spring or summer time.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
So I replaced my fan again with a 1,750 cfm fan but two weeks ago it started to get hot here in California rush hour traffic bumper to bumper I would hit 240F peak... I would turn off the AC the temp would drop down 220 to 230F. I know the 1750cfm fan will not do so soon as I got home did some research .. and all with one conclusion GO BACK TO OEM FAN… so I did ... ordered an STI OEM fan V7 I think ..The electrical connectors are different ..so had to do some electrical job. and it works great !!! hot traffic drive I would hit 190 to 195F fan off or on at low speed but soon as the high speed kicks in it would pull the temp back to 180F lol! Btw. I have an external gauges oil/water temp/air fuel/boost etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
That 240F peak temp I hit is not without damage .. my oil line for my mishimoto oil cooler burst last sat. night ..spilling oil all over the place…btw. it’s the hot side hose of my oil cooler that burst. Anyways it’s a cheap steel braided AN10 hose which I have been using for 3 years now…. I already ordered a Russell AN10 hose I should have my oil cooler online come next Monday :D
 

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Discussion Starter #97
btw. that pink H brace thing??? it does work !!! I wont argue about it just get yourself one and feel for yourself... its only $65 ebay
 

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Discussion Starter #98
come home on a tow truck today :( I did a hard pull all out high rev high boost ... then booooom no power no error but I can tell the engine is dead I was able to glide it to the nearest gas station.. try to restart it ... it wont hold I mean it would start but would quickly die down and a strong smell of unburn fuel with thick black smoke coming from the pipe .. soon as I come home check everything .. turns out it was one of the front intercooler coupler silicon hose it gave.. replace it now its up again :D
 

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update : I'm down with 12,000miles with my build and its still holding strong.. My engine went through a series of weird and scary sound. First 500miles you can here a loud rod knock like sound .. 500 to 1000miles it sounded like a piston slap then after 2000miles and two oil change with rotella T6 all bad sound went away.. but after 5000miles a rattling sound started it sounded like two billiard ball hitting each other again and again at high speed it was so bad last summer that concluded that's it i think the rings are gone and the pistons are slapping bad. but check my sparkplug no oil deposit checked my compression and is all good.. at this time I'm thinking it might be the timing belt tensioner. So i open the hood i rev the engine in neutral you should hear the tensioner knocking but its not... it sounded like a normal healthy engine.. after this that's it i decided ill just drive my car till i blow my engine and ill just build a better one .. The rattling sound was so bad i could not even pass somebody on the highway coz every time i let go of the gas 5th gear 3400rpm the rattling even goes louder ........ then winter came all rattling knocking sound went away completely my car drives like a brand new car and i was really pushing my engine i was thinking yeah my forged pistons finally settled down ........

(story not done yet ) ...... then about 3 weeks ago spring like weather came early here in northern California and guess what the rattling sound came back !!! and its bad again !! but this last few days or this last week it stared to get cold again and yeah the rattling sound is gone again ... so told myself this is an oil viscosity issue ..and yesterday i was underneath my car fixing my oil cooler sandwich adapter upon starting my engine checking leaks ...... Found out the rattling sound is come my transmission lol !!! ever since I have been planning of doing an sti tranny swap but not now its just too cold and no funds so i ordered redline lightweight shockproof gear oil hopefully this will help my tranny survive for now till i swap it .....
 

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Bro's update : so its been two year and 2 months since my built and my motor is still pulling strong no issues .. my forged pistons stop slapping around lol !

now im planning to go for speed density soon maybe next month ... as i understand it i need to get a kit for my intake temp. sensor relocation ..right? now the next one is my OEM MAP sensor as i understand its capable of reading up to 22psi? correct me if im wrong ....

now i have a Tomei ARMS M8265 turbo which from the review of other users its only capable of boosting up to 22psi max ....

my question is do i still have to replace my OEM MAP sensor even if its capable of reading the max output of my turbo? thanks in advance :D
 
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