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Discussion Starter #63
Manage to install also my lightweight flywheel and stage 3 clutch today.... I'm mounting this ... this sat. :)
 

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Oh man! That's a pretty motor. Well done! Love it when people jump in and get dirty and make cool stuff happen.

Looking forward to the rest of the build and hopefully some vids!

Here's mine:
14991005_1241306165889424_6733943129794534381_o.jpg
15000624_1244939472192760_356184340681349249_o (1).jpg
 

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lookin good so far dude!

just a tip if you havent already. i would high recommend wrapping that front cross over exhaust pipe. for $50 in wrap you will save yourself a TON of headaches in the future. one being that little coolant pipe that runs between the timing cover and crossover pipe. other being excess heat directly radiating onto your oil cooler & thermostat housing. which isnt a big deal really but it could potentially cause both to fail prematurely. your main concern is that coolant pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
lookin good so far dude!

just a tip if you havent already. i would high recommend wrapping that front cross over exhaust pipe. for $50 in wrap you will save yourself a TON of headaches in the future. one being that little coolant pipe that runs between the timing cover and crossover pipe. other being excess heat directly radiating onto your oil cooler & thermostat housing. which isnt a big deal really but it could potentially cause both to fail prematurely. your main concern is that coolant pipe.
Yup I got it covered lol! the headers is actually covered with thermal wrap and sprayed with silicon paint .. attach is the only photo I have of my headers its at the back of the head lol!.. I was thinking 15ft of thermal wrap is enough but I was wrong.. its not enough to cover the crosspipe.. anyways I already ordered 15ft more last Friday it should be here by Friday or Monday :)
 

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Discussion Starter #69
She's up and running !! I love it !! :D

how do you attach a video here?

btw. stage 3 clutch is not so bad :)
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Update : I'm down with 800+ break in miles and I love my hybrid! you can feel it wants to be unleash :D

The only thing I don't like is my forged piston slapping around its sounds annoying and scary .. it seems to go away around 200C temp.. but not totally the problem is its winter right now and I install an oil cooler about two weeks ago now I rarely go above 180C.. but after watching some videos from YouTube of forged piston slap ..I conclude mine is not that bad lol!
 

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yea piston slap is completely normal on forged motors.
 

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My stroker pistons slap less than CP high compression pistons I had before. It's all about getting everything to operating temps before touching the throttle at all! I let mine idle for 10-15 minutes minimum in the cold weather (anything below 50F) and at least 10 minutes in the warm weather (anything above 50F), in fact I usually let the radiator fans kick on 1-2 times before I get moving as by then the fluids are warm and oil is flowing efficiently.

So while I will agree forged internals do slap, I wouldn't say they should continuously slap. If they do I'd double check your piston-to-wall clearances/ring gap, too tight/loose and you'll wear the skirts/walls bad. Not sure what your plan for break-in is but I'd change your oil before 1000 miles, then go another 500-1000 and do it again. Reason for the first change so soon is to rid the engine of break-in oils and other metals that WILL wear off for the first few hundred miles, the second change is to rid the rest of the oils and material the first change didn't catch. Also try to stay out of boost so your rings can seat properly and keep RPMs below 3500-4000 to help prevent excessive wear on the walls, or you may have to re-ring before 30k. Just trying to help a fellow built engine, as that how I was trained during engine build classes (3, one for blueprinting, one for modifying internals, one for tuning).

After your second oil change (using the method above) I would HIGHLY recommend sending an oil sample to Blackstone Labs. I do mine every oil change to help determine if I have anything going on inside that might not be noticeable without proper gauges while I replace things needed at 194k (and used parts that need to switched out), you could go every other OCI but I wouldn't until after you have 2 good/consistent baselines. I did this after changing the bad turbo and the oil showed the excessive metals from the failing turbo, the next OCI should show less and I'll know more if the turbo was the main culprit or the cams are heading south, ugh (but means I have a reason to upgrade).
 

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My stroker pistons slap less than CP high compression pistons I had before. It's all about getting everything to operating temps before touching the throttle at all! I let mine idle for 10-15 minutes minimum in the cold weather (anything below 50F) and at least 10 minutes in the warm weather (anything above 50F), in fact I usually let the radiator fans kick on 1-2 times before I get moving as by then the fluids are warm and oil is flowing efficiently.

So while I will agree forged internals do slap, I wouldn't say they should continuously slap. If they do I'd double check your piston-to-wall clearances/ring gap, too tight/loose and you'll wear the skirts/walls bad. Not sure what your plan for break-in is but I'd change your oil before 1000 miles, then go another 500-1000 and do it again. Reason for the first change so soon is to rid the engine of break-in oils and other metals that WILL wear off for the first few hundred miles, the second change is to rid the rest of the oils and material the first change didn't catch. Also try to stay out of boost so your rings can seat properly and keep RPMs below 3500-4000 to help prevent excessive wear on the walls, or you may have to re-ring before 30k. Just trying to help a fellow built engine, as that how I was trained during engine build classes (3, one for blueprinting, one for modifying internals, one for tuning).

After your second oil change (using the method above) I would HIGHLY recommend sending an oil sample to Blackstone Labs. I do mine every oil change to help determine if I have anything going on inside that might not be noticeable without proper gauges while I replace things needed at 194k (and used parts that need to switched out), you could go every other OCI but I wouldn't until after you have 2 good/consistent baselines. I did this after changing the bad turbo and the oil showed the excessive metals from the failing turbo, the next OCI should show less and I'll know more if the turbo was the main culprit or the cams are heading south, ugh (but means I have a reason to upgrade).
Robo, you should never idle your car for that long in any weather. What you're doing is washing the oil off your cylinder walls and putting unwanted wear on them and other parts of your engine.

Here's an explanation:

Strangely enough, I have a built shortblock with all forged internals and I have no piston slap. I just start the car, wait about 30 seconds to a minute depending on how cold it is (gotta defog windows and such) and drive staying out of boost for at least 5-10 minutes after the coolant gauge reaches operating temp.
 

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Did you notice he said "colder oil doesn't protect like warm oil" and just because your coolant is at 180F doesn't mean your oil will be anywhere near as soon. In fact oil runs hotter than coolant (above 210F), and coolant is water-based so it can absorb heat at a much faster rate than say oil which is mineral-based, which means that not only does the coolant need to warm the oil to 180F but the engine still being cold in some areas means the oil isn't going to reach its operating temps until the rest of the engine does.

Also note he doesn't mention ANYTHING about FI cars, specifially turbos. While we as subie owners are blessed with water-cooled turbos, many aftermarket turbos are not unless you specify you want/need it. So for those without water-cooled turbos they must wait until oil temps reach operating temperature. Yes drag cars may not care, but they're replacing their builds after 1 or 2 races, track cars warm up their cars before each race for this exact reason, tires grip better, oil flows faster reducing engine wear (24 races), and the car just drives better/more predictably.

I really don't like to argue, but between my education for building engines/cars, the general lack of knowledge by the consumer, and common sense our society seems to lack some days...it's frustrating to hear people repeat things that businesses in the market to make money (selling cars/parts, repairing cars) on those uniformed people. Not saying you specifically are uniformed not at all, but to those still building based on what they read, they need all the info to make a reliable decision.

It's a wheel, not a rim..the rim is the outer edge of the wheel, and last time I checked you can't buy just the rim lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
okay update again Lol!

I hit 1000miles about 4 weeks ago and I've been using Rotella T6 ever since.The slapping sound before it was not that bad now its gone.. even when I start my engine in the morning when its very cold you wont hear it knocking or slapping.. I forgot to mention before one thing that scares me I can actually feel the slapping on my right foot via the gas padel I guess through the throttle cable. I can feel it slapping every time I hit 2800rpm to 3100rpm.. but again after switching to T6 oil it went away.. Btw. yes I did the break-in oil/filter change procedure 100miles/500miles non-synthetic then 1000miles Rotella T6.

Recently as I have mentioned to Ruso I got a problem getting my car tuned yeah I'm close to 2000miles now and its not yet properly tuned.. I took it to GST performance few weeks ago and I was sent away I was told they cant do it :( ( i think the owner Mike just doesn't like me lol! well read some of the reviews from GST ) anyway I went to Equilibrium Tuning this after and yeeeheeey! I finally got a tuning appointment but its gonna be a long waiting list my schedule would be by April 17, well better than nothing....

now i showed them my list of upgrades and they recommend i should replace my STI 560cc injector with a 800cc injectors they say they can tune it but the 560cc will only cutoff my engine in some point.. btw. i have a 20G turbo.... now i have a question anybody know the miles per gallon for a hybrid with 560cc injectors? 800cc i don't feel like going to the pump everyday :( .. right now I'm thinking of getting a 650cc injectors. but it depends again how much MPG i can get from 560cc lol!
 

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For injectors it isn't about the size that determines your MPGs, it's how they are scaled into the map. 560cc vs 800cc is just their max flow capability when commanded over 90%IDC, but you don't always command them that high like when out of boost or at idle. Running a 45+lbs turbo on a hybrid build with cams is going to warrant large injectors and your tuner is right, 560cc isn't going to cut it above 10bs boost/high RPMs, they barely have headroom with a stage 2 2.5 wrx/STi. Staying out of boost and below 3500RPMs should keep you around 21MPGs city seeing as you have a dank little hybrid (they make gobs of torque due to being VERY high compression and the 2.5 bottom end in the lower RPMs, but timing is pulled up top for that same reason), You gotta choose while driving, smiles or miles per gallon!

Stay away from DW products, unless your tuner really pushes them. Why? Because they have a history for their injectors sets not having a tight tolerance in flow ratings (multiple cases of brand new sets flowing 50+cc more/less than others in the same set, and vs other sets..this is very bad for tuning/reliability).
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Thanks Robotuner !! I'm convinced lol! I just ordered a 820cc injectors :D I just hope it can be tuned to do 20-22MPG off boost or conservative driving. I'm actually planning to drive back to NJ this july. it would be my first time to do a coast to coast road trip I'm concerned about the distance between gas stations I cant afford to start looking for a gas station every 200miles :( Lol!

another issue I notice lately .. after few min. of driving every time I would pull from 1st gear high rev or low rev. my engine would shake hard. again I have a competition stage 3 clutch kit. right now I have a oem wrx engine mount. I already ordered for Ground N engine/tranny mount hopefully this will solve my shaking problem.
 

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I can beat on my basemap and hit boost in every gear with a mix of city/highway and still get at least 180miles to a tank (it's all valleys where I live) and that basemap is set to run close to 10:1 A/F ratios even at idle it runs pig rich. Or I can be nice and stay out of boost more or less and get 280miles to a tank, could I get more than that? Yeah definitely, but remember I don't have an EGR system, headerback catless (3inch TBE), faulty injectors (limits boost to 8psi and 1/2 WOT), and a bored/stroked built engine (no head work yet besides beehive springs) so the fact I'm not making the power I should be and still make more power than stock, and get the same MPGs as stock(ish)....I'm not going to complain much.

As for the shaking issue, how many miles are on the clutch, how did you proceed with the break-in, is it sprung/unsprung, puck style or full disc? All of that will determine how much NVH you get from it, while having a stiffer mount is a good idea (especially for the work you've done) it will only add more NVH but hold the parts still and fight again breaking other mounts/connections/axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
attach is my clutch .. manual says no break in is needed for stage 3 copper ceramic clutch but since my engine is under the break in process before I have not been pushing my clutch too. All in all everything is about 2000 miles.

So I got my 820cc injectors already boss Robo is it safe to install them and drive off to my tuner? its about 70miles drive. btw. Every since I have been using Cobb STi injector economy MAP which is intended for EJ20 with sti injectors.
 

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