Man! Killer work on that manifold! Beautiful stuff!
Yup I got it covered lol! the headers is actually covered with thermal wrap and sprayed with silicon paint .. attach is the only photo I have of my headers its at the back of the head lol!.. I was thinking 15ft of thermal wrap is enough but I was wrong.. its not enough to cover the crosspipe.. anyways I already ordered 15ft more last Friday it should be here by Friday or Mondaylookin good so far dude!
just a tip if you havent already. i would high recommend wrapping that front cross over exhaust pipe. for $50 in wrap you will save yourself a TON of headaches in the future. one being that little coolant pipe that runs between the timing cover and crossover pipe. other being excess heat directly radiating onto your oil cooler & thermostat housing. which isnt a big deal really but it could potentially cause both to fail prematurely. your main concern is that coolant pipe.
Robo, you should never idle your car for that long in any weather. What you're doing is washing the oil off your cylinder walls and putting unwanted wear on them and other parts of your engine.My stroker pistons slap less than CP high compression pistons I had before. It's all about getting everything to operating temps before touching the throttle at all! I let mine idle for 10-15 minutes minimum in the cold weather (anything below 50F) and at least 10 minutes in the warm weather (anything above 50F), in fact I usually let the radiator fans kick on 1-2 times before I get moving as by then the fluids are warm and oil is flowing efficiently.
So while I will agree forged internals do slap, I wouldn't say they should continuously slap. If they do I'd double check your piston-to-wall clearances/ring gap, too tight/loose and you'll wear the skirts/walls bad. Not sure what your plan for break-in is but I'd change your oil before 1000 miles, then go another 500-1000 and do it again. Reason for the first change so soon is to rid the engine of break-in oils and other metals that WILL wear off for the first few hundred miles, the second change is to rid the rest of the oils and material the first change didn't catch. Also try to stay out of boost so your rings can seat properly and keep RPMs below 3500-4000 to help prevent excessive wear on the walls, or you may have to re-ring before 30k. Just trying to help a fellow built engine, as that how I was trained during engine build classes (3, one for blueprinting, one for modifying internals, one for tuning).
After your second oil change (using the method above) I would HIGHLY recommend sending an oil sample to Blackstone Labs. I do mine every oil change to help determine if I have anything going on inside that might not be noticeable without proper gauges while I replace things needed at 194k (and used parts that need to switched out), you could go every other OCI but I wouldn't until after you have 2 good/consistent baselines. I did this after changing the bad turbo and the oil showed the excessive metals from the failing turbo, the next OCI should show less and I'll know more if the turbo was the main culprit or the cams are heading south, ugh (but means I have a reason to upgrade).