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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

Its been a long time since I frequented these pages. I was in an accident back in April and I've been driving economy rental cars for more than 100 days. Yesterday my insurance company decided enough is enough and we came to a solution. Long story short Im the proud owner of a new WRB 2018. I couldn't be happier with the changes theyve made since the 2017 model and Ill be sure to keep the pages updated with any new information I get from the Subaru Ambassador page.

<a href="https://ibb.co/j0uxWa"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/eiXUcF/20170810_192442.jpg" alt="20170810_192442" border="0"></a>
 

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Be ready to walnut blast your heads every 20-30k. Why the 18 vs the 17? And I don't remember seeing anything about your old car being wrecked???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I figured the FA20DIT would need a bit of extra loving. Honestly its my daily driver and other than needing some better headlamps, mud flaps and Method 502s ( because the stock wheels are made of swiss cheese ) I plan on leaving it mostly stock. The dealership tossed in the STi exhaust and short throw with a few other interior upgrades already so theres not a ton on my list yet. Ive only been driving it for a few days but the 4 things I have written down are mostly cosmetic.

As for my 17 she took a bit of nose damage down on the Pala indian reservation 5 months ago. I had to avoid a car that was stopped in the middle of road around a blind corner with not emergency blinkers. I gave the inside barrier a love tap instead of hitting the other car. Anyway, the body shop my insurance recommended did some welding on the frame where the bumper attaches to the passenger side quarter panel and after that she wouldn't start. The body shop wanted to have some 3rd party come in and replace the ECM and I told them they could shove that up their rear end. The shop transferred it to Subaru where they tried everything from an ECM to a gauge cluster but they couldnt revive her. Eventually 5 months later they decided that they couldnt service it and offered to buy me out of my 17 and trade it in for an 18 so I bit.
 

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But why did you ever move to the FA platform? No injector upgrades (unless you drop 2k for the TGV mod, not CARB legal) and less power? Not to mention you still have the 5mt case halves?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Part of it was growing up I think. I swapped out my 13 for a 17 because I'm on the 405 freeway for 4 hours a day. I was getting beat up by my 13 ( and my FEAL suspension lift ) and I was into a more refined drive on the 17. I drove stemp661s 16 and fell in love with it so I went a got a 17. About a year after I got it I was in an accident and the body shop messed up so the foundation was laid for me to upgrade without it costing my anything extra.

You know I've never been one for adding tons of power ( Suspension>Brakes>Power ) but when I do add power its going to have to be CARB legal because Im not planning on moving out of SoCal any time soon. When the time comes for track mods Ill probably upgrade to the new STi 6 pot brembos first and follow it up with stiffer bushings all around. Im usually one for swaybars and endlinks as well but I havent really found a need for them on the 18 yet. Im still breaking it in so Im not driving it particularly hard but it feels really good in corners already. If I do end up building the motor out I'm sure I can get moore to make up a set of blast plates for the new 6MT. As for the TGVs there are already companies running TGV delets for the FA but I dont know that the piston rods can handle that much extra power. The reasrch Ive done with stemp661 for his 16 essentially rooted out that if we want to make a considerable amount more power on the FA we would be doing a complete tear down and rebuild. Honestly though I don't see that happening anytime soon, Ill keep up on the current news in regards to the platform but it has plenty of power to get me to and from work and my wife and I around town. I might end up doing another E tune with Eric over at Torqued Performance sometime in the future but I'm pretty happy with it the way it is.

At this point the only thing on my log sheet are noises ( brand new car and it sounds "different" ) and a bit of hang time on the throttle, I'm pretty tickled with the stock form for the 18.

I'm sure once I finish the break in Ill find more things that need updating but for now I'm just enjoying the new car smell :)
 

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FYI, the FRS/BRZ FA20 can do 400whp stock, granted they also have MFI and I don't know how many miles are on it but it is known for that capability. Also, TGV deletes aren't CARB legal, and the TGV delete mod that adds in MFI support also requires an aftermarket computer which would agian not be CARB compliant. A set of forged pistons/rods is all you need for a DD to make big power, below 450whp and you don't seem like the kind of guy to expect more than what's reasonable for a platform you know is meant for economy.

BTW, your old 5mt blast plates bolt right up the your new 6mt wrx. the case halves are literally the same on the outside, and the inside is machined to fit another gear...that's the only difference.

Glad to hear you are enjoying it even at the break in level, I'm sure after 1500 miles you will find the weak points in the suspension, and the tires. Those summer compounds are only meant for warm/dry days on clean roads, just a heads up.

FYI, I "test drove" a 2017 STi last year, and let's just say I found out what it can do, and what the man couldn't do...does that tell you how nice the new chassis is for the EJ257?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@Robo, It never ceases to amaze me that youv'e already had one of the newer 6mts down and out of a car to check fitment for the blast plates. That saves me a pain and a half when it comes time :)

I'm not so concerned with making big power but I figure pistons and rods never really hurt anyone. If I plan on going bigger than a stage 2 Ill probably do a set of manleys and let paul over at yimisport handle the wrench turning.

As far as being CARB LEGAL, in Cali stickers that add 5 horsepower are frowned upon :( Unfortunately the nanny state we live in doesn't care if your burning a cleaner fuel like E85 or making a platform more efficient if its "Different" then its evil. On the 13 I had a "CARB ID" sticker on my intake that was enough for the smog tech to pass even with the Cobb catted Downpipe so its kinda flexable. Honestly If things look mostly stock and the emissions are close to being within spec most techs are not versed enough in aftermarket mods to fail you without cause.

Something to think about down the line, At this point Im 700 miles into my break in and all is well.
 

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About the blast plates, don't quote me on it but that's what the techs are saying. Go ahead and test the fitment, just thought I'd let you know you shouldn't have an issue.

Yeah, NY has adopted Cali dumb @*^% laws about mods last year. But when I mentioned the $2K TGV mods, I was referring to the TGV delete/injector adding mod that deletes TGVs but adds a port for top-feed injectors. Though you will need an aftermarket ECU to control these, it's an option...and of course I cannot find the part or remember who makes them. Found it on a FB post with a link.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah swapping the ECU would be a pretty instant fail in Cali.

Its unfortunate because we can read data sheets showing that were cleaner that stock but they dont want to be bothered with information, the politicians just want to pretend they are saving the world so they can tell all their friends.
 

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No I meant Haltech has a true "piggy-back" that keeps the OEM ECU and interrupts the signals for its own, allowing OBD to be fully functional while adding features that weren't there before.

After searching their site I can't find it anymore...I guess the lawyers that threatened RallySportDirect for selling de-catted downpipes must have gotten to Haltech too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
oh Im sure they did, piggy back ECUs were a no go in Cali for as long as I can remember.

Honestly I would be pretty ticled with a switch controlled piggyback ECU but I know thats agains the rules the same way the aftermarket ECUs are.
 

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Do they pull up the carpet to check? The way they explained their system to me was, it goes inline with the OEM ECU and allows you to fully interrupt the input/output signals to control everything, and even add features such as AVCS/AVLS (when not originally equipped) while still allowing the OBD to be fully functional.

My take was that it was designed around the "street legal" requirements of a "weekend warrior".

Did you ever find the link for those TGV deletes/top feed mods?
 
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