[dumdum]

Alright, I didnt log it while i was driving so i just took a screenshot of the log. Cant really get a graph or anything. But I had these random ones recorded cause i kinda did it on the spur of the moment with my friend. But yea tell me if you see anything.

That doesn't really tell you anything.That is not what a log loks like.All that does is tell you your min/max values you hit.If you select the defroster button as log trigger you can just set the lap top down in the passenger seat,get into 3rd at around 2000rpm,hit the defrost as you punch the throttle and run up to redline.Then once you hit redline hit the defrost to stop the log.Then open the log.It will be in a Microsoft Excel format.There is no reason to log atmospheric pressure,target boost,fuel temp,boost error(right now) or any of the manifold absolute pressures.Manifold relitive pressure corrected is the only pressure one ya need.Also log "primary injector duty cycle" in %,not pulse width.

 

[dumdum]

This is what a log would look like.What you are showing is 1D.You neede something more of a 2D configuration to be usefull.

 

[deathskrye]

Alright, Sorry about that. Right after I posted that I went out with my friend again and used the defroster button. But yea i had to torrent to get microsoft excel lol. It just finished yay
Wow why the #### cant we have atachments thats some ### ass shit

 

[yelljack]

I agree. This should be a sticky also. Out of curiousity, what would happen if I turn up the boost on stage 1 with only a non catted DP?

Well, technically a cat-less DP would not classify as Stage 1, there is thread on this sight that explains "Stages". If you have an intake upgrade even a highflow drop in filter, I believe you are Stage 2. To answer your question, removing your cat will relieve some back pressure on the turbine side. So, adjusting your wastegate should allow you to reach a higher psi. Now, I am not a WRX expert, I have a moderate amount of expirience with tuning rexes (3 years), but I am well read on turbos in general. Mosc or Nosenuggets are the guys to ask.

 

[03 CrazyTaxi]

^^^ Ok, a drop in, CAI, or SRI does not make a car "Stage 2." The catless TBE and a tune does. The intake, I would assume makes Stage 1. I'm still trying to figure out Stage 3....

 

[yelljack]

oopps, I did forget to mention that without EM upgrade/changes, you are Stage nada. Stage 3 is supposed to be everything but the fuel injectors and the turbo. My car is supposed to be Stage 3, but I really think it is all hype and I am not making enough to the wheels to even bother posting my dyno slip. I have given up on going fast..... can't do it properly w/out a tranny upgrade. I will stick to making it stick.

 

[newtothegame]

Just because you dont have EM does not mean you arent or cant be considered a certain stage, or therefore you wouldnt know what stage to choose if possible from the type of EM you are using. If you get a tune (be it road or dyno, but have no EM) you at whats consider a certain stage for mods. Stages also vary a little between which company or user you are looking at. Cobbs is a little different from the Utec, who knows about a Hydra, something like that.

 

[yelljack]

This is what I use for my reference

http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f51/what-do-stages-mean-8796/

IBA knows his sh*t so that is what I go by.

 

[dumdum]

Nobody should be adjsuting the wastegate unless you are getting boost oscillations or having trouble hitting your targetboost after trying to first tune it out through the ECU.I just want to make sure people are not thinking this is how you get your car to get higher boost without paying for a tune.

 

[03 CrazyTaxi]

Just because you dont have EM does not mean you arent or cant be considered a certain stage, or therefore you wouldnt know what stage to choose if possible from the type of EM you are using. If you get a tune (be it road or dyno, but have no EM) you at whats consider a certain stage for mods.

Umm, last time I checked getting a tune and EM were basically one in the same. Now, the difference is what EM you are using. Is it a piggyback, stand alone, or OpenSource. You have to have a tune to be considered "Stage X" or else your car isn't going to like you.

As an example, say I install STi pinks and a VF34 but don't change the injector scaling from 420cc to 565cc and do absolutely nothing about the boost maps. My car isn't going to be very happy. Yeah, the parts are there but they aren't being used properly. It's kinda like those stick on hood scoops from Auto Zone.

What all this boils down to is YOU MUST BE TUNED. That's the only concrete rule I've found when it comes to working with these cars. Well, that and Lean = Boom = New motor.

Honestly, I don't typically refer to my car as Stage 4 unless I'm talking with someone who has no clue about bolt-on upgrades. On the other hand, if they do know a little I'll tell them turbo swap, injectors, I/C, etc. If they know Subarus, I'll tell them VF34, pinks, massive TMIC, etc.

 

[Jackstand Johnny]

Hi. Im currently overboosting to 19.76 pounds at 5000 RPM with my 2002 WRX. It has an OTS Cobb stage 2 93 octane LOW WASTEGATE map. I was having this problem before this map so I flashed to thie LWG map and the problem is still there. Is adjusting the actuator arm(making it longer) something that you would do to rectify the problem Im currently having? Or should I be looking into a new actuator or BCS? I cant afford either, so I want to try this first since its basically free. Thanks in advance.

 

[Jackstand Johnny]

So my problem ended up being an error with my acessport, it's cable or the ecu because the 19.76 lbs that showed up was only recorded in one cell of the spreadsheet. Meaning it would have had to have spiked from 14 lbs to 19 and back down to 14 which is impossible lol.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[GSMNZ]

No its not impossible. Its called boost creep. Your car was trying to get to target boost and overshot then corrected itself. I mean... its a little more technical than that but that is basically what happens.

 

[Jackstand Johnny]

I don't think boost creep happens and then is corrected in 1/100th of a second, which is what my logs say happened. Cobb even confirmed that that's impossible. If our cars were capable of gaining 4 lbs of boost every 1/100th of a second then we would all be dead right now and I'd be VERY disappointed in what hell is like.

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[augusto]

Hello everyone
You don't need to buy multiple clips.
It is much easier for you to tie a hand sewing thread on it, in case the clip detaches and just pulls the thread

 

[MarkAblebrookes]

this action is done when you are useing stage 2+ and not reaching your target boost only
DO NOT ADJUST WHILE STOCK OR STAGE 1( it is not needed)


1: Remove C-CLIP from the WG Actuator DO NOT DROP THE C-CLIP
2: Loosen the WG Adjuster nut with 10mm wrench
3: Remove the Adjuster from the WG Flapper by pulling up.
4: Shorten the length of the arm to increase boost, opposite to decrease.
5: Place Adjuster back onto the WG Flapper.
6: Place C-CLIP back onto the locker.
7: Tighten 10mm Adjuster nut to when done

turn only half a turn at a time then check boost

DO NOT ADJUST UNTIL YOU HAVE PROPER EM AND AN ACCURATE WAY TO MONITOR YOUR BOOST!!!!

My wg has no adjustment nuts. It's just a rod no 10mm nuts...help