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Discussion Starter #1
hey,
this question seems pritty noob but here it goes.

When you reset the factory ecu, does it reset the odometer or change the keypad pin or anything like that? or does it just reset the management settings?

thanks!
any help will be appreciated

Also, for anyone who has done this for themselves, could you please give me a quick rundown on how to do it properly? Ive read a few different instructions on how to do it but they are all slighty different.

thanks again
 

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It won't change your actually mileage but it will clear the top one, the trip counter or the one you can clear by pushing the button on your gauges.
To reset your ECU just disconnect your negative battery cable and just leave your door open to drain the power that might be in the system, do this for about 10 seconds and your done!
 

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Here is what I found a while back. Used it on my 02 WRX and it works pretty well.

Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.

Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).

The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. Well, here's a way to make it happen in about 5 seconds

First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.

Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower

In an attempt to save a lot of dyno time between reflashes (when the advance multiplier resets itself), I do this little trick after every reflash. In a typical dyno session, it's not unusual to reflash the same car up to 5 times. On the dyno, all I need to do is tell the dyno to hold revs to 2600rpm. Then I just lay on the throttle until I see a few psi of boost... Bingo!

Warning: This little trick artificially speeds up the learning process. This is only a good thing if the re-mapped ECU is mapped properly. If there are trouble-spots where knock is present, this trick will make it even more present. So be careful!

Cheers,
shiv
www.vishnutuning.com
 

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Will this work on a 1996 ver. 2 as i have new grey top injectors replacing my old grey top injectors and now finding my car running abit rough with new injectors..
 
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