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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so i have a 2006 subaru wrx Tr. i originally bought the car August of 2021, i bought it needed a tune. The car has the following mods, FMIC (unknown brand), air filter, and catless downpipe. The car was not maintained properly when i looked deeper into it. I bought a cobb acessport, and tried loading one of the maps it came with, the 91 ANC tune map. And i do put 91 in it whenever i put gas. And as soon as i loaded up the map it started sounding choppy. Like a cammed out corvette. Then the car all of a sudden didnt want to turn on. It sat for like a month or two and recently last month we took off the intake manifold and gave it new injectors, new sparkplugs, and a couple more things. When we put everything back, filled it all up with its fluid. Still did the same, built no boost, would not idle good, still sounded really choppy, would barely make it to 2,000 rpm before dieing in its own throttle, and would shake back and forth if you tried to create boost. Until last week where we my grandpa disconnected the MAF sensor and it all of a sudden was normal, made boost, idled good, only thing is that it kinda stutters to turn on, but when it turns on it runs and drives like it should. So we suggested it was the MAF sensor. So we headed to autozone and got a DENSO MAF sensor which was the same it had orginally. Put it on today and it started getting all choppy again once plugged the MAF sensor. It was brand new and as soon as we took it off it ran perfect again. We were thinking it has something to do with the cobb accessport. Cause as soon as the MAF sensor is connected it goes bad. Idk if you have to get a custom E-tune made and download on your accessport in order for the cobb A. And the MAF sensor to be compatible. We are kinda in a stuck bubble. But the car runs and drives good. Makes boost and everything just it has the MAF sensor unplugged so it stutters when turning on but it does eventually turn on. If anyone knows about the acessports and what you have to do lmk. Maybe you have to get a custom E-tune then download it from your computer to your accessport then through the accessport load it up, idk im just kinda stuck at this point.
 

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Hi, so I also have a 2006 WRX TR and I love it. I'm usually more active on NASIOC, but since we have the same car this is an easy solution.

First, make sure it runs well on a stock tune (OEM). You have way too many variables going on here and it seems you don't have a lot of experience in tuning, so start simple.

Disconnecting the MAF causes the ECU to go into open loop and ignore a lot of sensors, so it may be that the default parameters (like IPW) are suitable for your setup. This doesn't mean it is a good tune unless you can show the power curves on a dyno.

> The car was not maintained properly when i looked deeper into it. << THIS
If it wasn't maintained properly, it's possible it has all sorts of problems. I recommend bringing it back to stock (if possible) and then adding what you want/need.

Did you buy the Cobb AP new? Or was it "used"? I believe you can use the AP without flashing a map, but, if you flash a map, it should be an official Cobb OTS map, stage 1 91 octanes. That will provide the least amount of changes so you can figure out what is going on.

The stuttering sounds like it may be running rich, mine does that at startup when the engine is already warm, but then purrs after 1 min. It could also be a bad O2 sensor.

Last but not least, I recommend only buying official Subaru parts (especially electrical) unless it's been proven that the aftermarket is better (think turbos, fuel pumps or TGV housings).

- Tony
 

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A faulty MAF sensor can cause your vehicle to run too rich or run too lean. You'll notice if the tailpipes eject black smoke or when the engine runs rough or backfires. You may also notice you're filling up at the gas station more than usual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi, so I also have a 2006 WRX TR and I love it. I'm usually more active on NASIOC, but since we have the same car this is an easy solution.

First, make sure it runs well on a stock tune (OEM). You have way too many variables going on here and it seems you don't have a lot of experience in tuning, so start simple.

Disconnecting the MAF causes the ECU to go into open loop and ignore a lot of sensors, so it may be that the default parameters (like IPW) are suitable for your setup. This doesn't mean it is a good tune unless you can show the power curves on a dyno.



If it wasn't maintained properly, it's possible it has all sorts of problems. I recommend bringing it back to stock (if possible) and then adding what you want/need.

Did you buy the Cobb AP new? Or was it "used"? I believe you can use the AP without flashing a map, but, if you flash a map, it should be an official Cobb OTS map, stage 1 91 octanes. That will provide the least amount of changes so you can figure out what is going on.

The stuttering sounds like it may be running rich, mine does that at startup when the engine is already warm, but then purrs after 1 min. It could also be a bad O2 sensor.

Last but not least, I recommend only buying official Subaru parts (especially electrical) unless it's been proven that the aftermarket is better (think turbos, fuel pumps or TGV housings).

- Tony
Hi, so I also have a 2006 WRX TR and I love it. I'm usually more active on NASIOC, but since we have the same car this is an easy solution.

First, make sure it runs well on a stock tune (OEM). You have way too many variables going on here and it seems you don't have a lot of experience in tuning, so start simple.

Disconnecting the MAF causes the ECU to go into open loop and ignore a lot of sensors, so it may be that the default parameters (like IPW) are suitable for your setup. This doesn't mean it is a good tune unless you can show the power curves on a dyno.



If it wasn't maintained properly, it's possible it has all sorts of problems. I recommend bringing it back to stock (if possible) and then adding what you want/need.

Did you buy the Cobb AP new? Or was it "used"? I believe you can use the AP without flashing a map, but, if you flash a map, it should be an official Cobb OTS map, stage 1 91 octanes. That will provide the least amount of changes so you can figure out what is going on.

The stuttering sounds like it may be running rich, mine does that at startup when the engine is already warm, but then purrs after 1 min. It could also be a bad O2 sensor.

Last but not least, I recommend only buying official Subaru parts (especially electrical) unless it's been proven that the aftermarket is better (think turbos, fuel pumps or TGV housings).

- Tony
thank you for this information, currently im not driving it rn, i’m going to try to go back to stock on everything and start from there. I think i also may have a boost or vaccumm leak somewhere. I heard that the ecu also starts to act like that when it detects a vaccum leak. And like you said when disconnecting the MAF sensor it ignores other important sensors. In the next few days im going to buy a smoke vaccum tester to see if any of my lines are ripped. But yeah i want to go back to all stock so i can have a better idea of what is wrong with my car and see if i can narrow down the problem and fix it. But thank you for responding Tony🙏
 
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