Sounds like the battery is draining from something being left on. did you recently install any thing(stereo equipment) that might be draining it?

 

i would check to see if your remote wires for any audio equipment you have is on a fuse that doesnt stay hot like hazard lights, and IS on something that is ignitian based like the AUDIO fuse.

oh, you could just remove the negative lead form your battery untill you figure it out

 

2 mornings in a row now my car won't start. It has a dead battery. The battery is a brand new Optima yellow top. I have had tests run on both battery and alternator and everything checks out fine. WTH could it be, I swear this car is possessed, it's giving me nothing but problems. I double check every night to make sure I haven't left anything on.
Any ideas? I'm stuck.

Have you checked for a draw at your battery? If your showing a draw that may help you narrow it down.

 

They did a check for draw on the battery, there wasn't any. The only work that I've had done since I bought the car a month ago was gauges(EGT,A/F,BOOST) and a professionaly tuned UTEC

 

They did a check for draw on the battery, there wasn't any. The only work that I've had done since I bought the car a month ago was gauges(EGT,A/F,BOOST) and a professionaly tuned UTEC

How long has it been between when you got the gauges/UTEC and when the problem started, or rather didnt start. ROFL sorry, that was a below the belt.
If the two are not far apart Id start by removing the UTEC, if I understand it right the ECU goes back to stock with it removed.
By the way, does your car take a jump...? How do you eventualy get it started?

 

The UTEC was on the car when I bought it. I just got it tuned, there were no problems in the 3 weeks I had it until I had the gauges put in. I took it back to the shop that put the gauges in and they said there's no way that the the problem is related to those. When I shut the car off I look to make sure nothing is on and the battery draw test confirms that nothing is actually drawing off of the battery. It started after 5 minutes of trying this morning. I needed a jump yesterday. It's really weird, I don't know what to do. I'm being told everything is fine but I don't see how it's fine when my car won't start.

 

The UTEC was on the car when I bought it. I just got it tuned, there were no problems in the 3 weeks I had it until I had the gauges put in. I took it back to the shop that put the gauges in and they said there's no way that the the problem is related to those. When I shut the car off I look to make sure nothing is on and the battery draw test confirms that nothing is actually drawing off of the battery. It started after 5 minutes of trying this morning. I needed a jump yesterday. It's really weird, I don't know what to do. I'm being told everything is fine but I don't see how it's fine when my car won't start.

Those guys who put your gauges in are either full of sh*t or dont know what they're doing. The A/F guage if not hooked up properly could be drawing off the battery, small chance but still a posibility. When a proper A/F gauge is hooked up, whats called a wideband is used. Its basicly an o2 sensor that gives you more info. Your other gauges should be mechanical so if the problem started after you got the gauges Id start with the A/F wideband.
When you try to start it in the morning does the car turn over and not fire or is it compleetly dead? How long between when you shut the car off and the no start? Any CEL or codes stored in the ECU history?

 

The problem was the pyrometer. In defense of the people that put my gauges in the instructions said to connect it to a constant power source. I went in there and told them we needed to figure this out because I was getting tired up jump starting my car every morning. We finally came to the conclusion that the pyrometer was hooked to a constant power source and it had to be that gauge that was killing my battery every night, so we they changed it to ignition power and now I'm golden. I'm just amazed that one stupid gauge could draw enough power to kill a Optima yellowtop in 8 hours.

 

Good sh*t man glad to hear you got that sorted.!Thumbs Up

By the way though, que es pyrometer? Never heard that one before.WTF

 

Good sh*t man glad to hear you got that sorted.!Thumbs Up

By the way though, que es pyrometer? Never heard that one before.WTF

Maybe it measures your desire to burn things at any given time ROFL

 

Good sh*t man glad to hear you got that sorted.!Thumbs Up

By the way though, que es pyrometer? Never heard that one before.WTF

EGT

 

OOOOHHHHH EGT gauge!!! That certinly will do it.

Lemmie ask a stupid question though, why do you have egt gauge in the first place? What good does it do you? Its not something you can realy tune for is it?

 

EGT is a fairly important gauge. It tells you when you need to back up off the gas pedal because your car is getting too hot. If you ask the turbo gurus what gauges you should buy, most will tell you Boost,EGT,A/F or oil temp. BTW I am far from a turbo guru, this is just the info I have come up with in my searches.

 

This goes out to anyone.

What Im wondering though is the practical aplication for an EGT gauge.WTF
Ive done tuning and turbo work on a number of cars but Ive never seen the need for an EGT. As far as I know, the hotter your exhaust is the more power your cylinders are making. I realize exhaust drives the turbo and the hotter the exhaust the hotter your intake temp and Ive seen intake temp gauges but Im lost on the EGT thing.

Id love someone to set me straight on this one.

 

It's basically a less accurate way to determine air/fuel ratio. You put the probe outside the leanest cylinder. The hotter the EGT is, the leaner you're mixture is. The cooler your EGT, the more fuel is in there. If you really want to tune, a wideband is a must.

 

Right on, that makes sense. But unless you have an EGT for each individual cylinder its pretty much worthless? You know anyone who actualy uses one for the purpose of tuning?

I can see the use for one on a non-liquid cooled turbo if your running No2 or really high octane. Has anyone ever had problems overheating their turbo? Dude that works for/with me fried his but that was because the oil lines he ran were the wrong size but that was on a honda.:tease:

 

You can tune with an EGT gauge, but it's not going to be a very good one. The idea is to put the probe outside the hottest cylinder (known as cylinder #3 - runs the leanest). That way as long as your keeping tabs on cylinder 3, the rest should be fine.