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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been a quick month and the car has over 2k miles on it now. I'm guessing the break-in period should be done with and time to bring it in to the dealer?

Bear with me, I'm a bit new at this. What should be checked and which fluids needs to be changed when I do bring it in. I have a manual WRX wagon, so would it be wise to have them change the tranny oil also? Advice appreciated, Nick.
 

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Well you're past break in so you can wind it out now :) I replaced my oil after 1500mi. then every 3k until I switched to synthetic at 10k. I replaced my tranny and diff oil to synthetic at 12k. You'll find over time everyone has a different opinion on when to change your oil and when to switch to synthetic. I just read everyone's advice and picked numbers in the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds good Gerlando, I'll keep that in mind when changing to synthetic.

Some left over questions arose since then. Should the transmission oil be changed as well since I've "grinded" it a couple times. I'll have it changed too, but if it really makes no difference to change it this early then let me know.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but there is also oil in the rear differential too?
 

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You might want to change your tranny oil now, regardless of grinding you'll probably see a little metal in it from breakin. The sooner you get that out the better right?

Go here for a nice how-to, its for an RS but they're pretty much identical but I think the exhaust on the RS covers the tranny oil bolt, where the WRX exhaust doesn't : http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/tfluid/tfluid.html
 

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I changed the oil first at 3500 miles to Amsoil synthetic with Purolator Pure One filter. I am now at over 13000 miles and have changed the filter every 3000 but haven't changed the oil yet. I have done an oil analysis and the oil is still within spec and clean of all contaminates. I'm going to leave it in for another 5 or 6000 and do another analysis to see how long this stuff holds up. Also I was happy that the K&N panel filter seems to be working since the silicate level of the oil was good (indicates functioning of the air filter).:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just curious, where would one go about getting an oil analysis and what's the price to expect from this?
 

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I used a prepaid kit called Titan Checkup Engine Analysis (www.titancheckup.com). It contains a vial and prepaid shipping labels. You fill the vial with a sample of used oil from the car and send it off to Titan. You get the results in about 10 days. The kit usually retails for $29 but I bought a bunch of them for $8 when the local KMart went out of business.

For more information on oil analysis than you probably ever wanted to know check out www.oilanalysis.com. They have a forum where everyone does nothing but talk about oil:p .

Dale
 

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>I used a prepaid kit called Titan Checkup Engine Analysis (www.titancheckup.com). It contains a vial and prepaid shipping labels. You fill the vial with a sample of used oil from the car and send it off to Titan. You get the results in about 10 days. The kit usually retails for $29 but I bought a bunch of them for $8 when the local KMart went out of business.<

The amount that you paid for the kits is the same amount for the oil you could have changed. Besides, clean oil is better than older oil regardless if it is conventional or sythetic. I guess I'm old skool that way. Change it ever 3k and the oil should be good.
 

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I think you may have misunderstood what I was trying to do. I was trying to do kind of a scientific experiment to see how long the oil would last as well as if it was still clean or not. I have heard claims of Amsoil oil lasting for well over 15,000 mi and I was curious to see if this was BS or not. I do not plan on doing this every oil change for the life of the car (plus I'm running out of the cheap price test kits). Everyone believes that they have to change their oil every 3000 mi but few people on boards like this ever present real evidence that this is really the correct interval (car manufacturers usually recommend longer intervals and they hope to make money when their service people change your oil). I was trying to test, with a real laboratory analysis, what was really happening with my oil and how long it really holds up. The laboratory test not only tests if the oil is within spec but it tests for contamination by water, fuel, antifreeze, chromium, copper, iron, lead, tin aluminum and silicon. So cleanliness and various types of abnormal engine wear are also evaluated. As I stated before, the biggest surprise was that my K&N filter was actually working quite well (low aluminum, chromium and silicon). I've always been afraid that the increased flow of a K&N might result in poor filtration. Oh and a full change with Amsoil costs much more than $8 (that stuffs expensive, not sure if it is worth it).

Dale
 

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2k
oil change
check all fluids
(every 3k after the 3rd 2k oil change

6k
oil change
check all fluids
rotate tires

15k
oil change
throttle body clean
check fluids/brakes
clutch fluid flush,refill, and bleed
rotate tires
replace air filter


30k (same as 15k)
check rear fluid (geaqr oil) level
check trans gear oil level

50 k
plugs
wires
gear oil (trans and rear)
oil change
coolant flush
pvc valve
rotate tires
top fluids
master cyl flush
belts
etc etc

this is what we go by at the dealership but personally i change gear oil in the rear and trans every 30k and always clean out my throttle body and intercooler and intake pipes.
 

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iceNine said:
(car manufacturers usually recommend longer intervals and they hope to make money when their service people change your oil). . As I stated before, the biggest surprise was that my K&N filter was actually working quite well (low aluminum, chromium and silicon). I've always been afraid that the increased flow of a K&N might result in poor filtration. Oh and a full change with Amsoil costs much more than $8 (that stuffs expensive, not sure if it is worth it).

Dale
as far as service techs and dealerships go, oil changes suck and we hate them, pays nothing, other than the trust of a customer really.
jiffy lube im sure loves LOF's however. lol

PCV (positive crankcase ventalation) valve has alot more to do with contaminating oil than your air filter
Infact i would say 4 times as much, even tho the pcv is vented behind the filter. if not more. the air filter would have an affect on engine oil if the rings were worn to #@%#@%#@%#@% and you get all kinds of blow by.
 

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Goodness! I just got my WRX and put 500 miles on it the first week and promptly changed the oil! I've never let a new car go more than a 1000 miles before doing the first oil change. I can't imagine someone going the suggested 7500 miles on the factory oil!
 

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when I get a new car, I change the oil to full synthetic @ 500 miles.
and go with K&N filter.
@3000 miles I make another synthetic oilchange and filter, and changeto synthetic transmission oil.
My 60,000k dodge neon hasnt given me a problem since i bough it brand new, though u might want to go synthetic on the trans @ 500 miles on a AWD WRX!!
 

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Subaru Tech:

Dealerships may actually lose money on oil changes but I've never gone into a Dealership for just an oil change without being talked into a lot of other routine service (and not so routine) so that $25 oil change turns into a $350 visit. I think the oil change brings the customer in and the dealer may make money on the other things the customer decides to do while there.

Dale
 
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