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» Stage 1 Power |
Step 1:
Cat-back Exhaust System
A 3" high flow exhaust system is needed remove exhaust restrictions and to allow all future mods to achieve their maximum power potential. As you know, the WRX has 3 factory catalytic converters. A cat-back exhaust will replace the exhaust after the last cat in the system. The two remaining cats are on the downpipe and the up-pipe. Many companies sell what's called a "turbo-back" system, which is essentially a cat-back system with the addition of the downpipe - thus replacing the entire exhaust system from the turbo to the exhaust tip. This is usually the way to go.
Shop for Exhaust Systems.
Step 2:
High Flow Downpipe
The factory downpipe is very restrictive with the two factory catalytic converters and should be replaced with a larger, better flowing unit - eliminating one or both cats. You can purchase a downpipe separately, or as part of a "turbo-back" system. If you already have a cat-back system, you'll need to buy this part separately. Most aftermarket downpipes will eliminate both of the factory catalytic converters. We all know that most state laws prohibit this, and that we should only do this for off-road use (notice our legal disclaimer).
Shop for Downpipes.
Step 3:
High Flow Up-pipe
The factory up-pipe connects the exhaust manifold to the turbine housing and is quite restrictive, as it contains the first of the three factory catalytic converters in the exhaust system. Most all aftermarket up-pipes will not contain a catalytic converter, which is great for power and prevents potential damage to your turbo, but may be considered illegal and should be used for off-road purposes (notice our legal disclaimer).
Shop for Up-pipes.
Step 4:
Boost Gauge
The stock boost gauge is simply not too accurate. To avoid severe engine damage when increasing boost levels, an aftermarket unit is recommended for accurate readings. This should be among the first things you install if you're planning on turning up boost levels. You should also consider an EGT gauge (to monitor engine temps) and an Air/Fuel ratio gauge - especially if you plan on moving on to Stage 2 performance.
Step 5:
Get it Tuned
In order to change boost levels, fuel maps, timing, and other vital engine settings, you'll need to either get a "reflash" (reprogrammed ECU), "piggyback" the factory ECU, or replace the factory ECU with a programmable stand-alone system. Piggyback systems only give you minimal control by tricking the ECU. The programmable system gives you control over fuel, timing and boost levels, and is perfect for those who want to continue to mod their cars. The reflashed ECU's are for programmed for a specified list of modifications, which means, if you upgrade your engine more, you'll need to get it "reflashed" (or reprogrammed) by a tuning shop.
Shop for ECU Upgrades.
Step 6:
Intercooler Hoses
The factory intercooler plastic hoses, espcially the "Y" pipe, are known to crack and split under prolonged extreme driving, which is not good for performance. One option, if you're not planning on upgrading to a front mount intercooler any time soon, is to swap your intercooler hoses with full silicone replacements. They'll hold up better to the heat, and may improve throttle response and prevent boost loss. However, a front mount intercooler upgrade will make this upgrade unnecessary. This upgrade will add little, if any power, but is fairly simple to do and will be benificial if you don't plan on doing a whole lot more modifying.
Shop for Intercooler Hoses.
Step 7:
Crank Pulley
An underdrive crank pulley can free up some extra power and is fairly inexpensive.
Shop for Crank Pulleys.
Step 8:
Short throw shifter
Quick shifting is essential for performance driving. We recommend replacing the factory shifter unit with an aftermarket version that shortens the distance between the drive gears. Some shops may also carry special shifter bushings to help reduce the "play" in the shifter. You'll love driving your car once you finish upgrading this part.
Shop for Shifters.
Step 9:
Engine/Transmission Mount Upgrades
By replacing the factory tranny mount and engine mounts with upgraded units, you'll minimize unwanted movement in the drivetrain and reduce the risk of missed shifts and drivetrain power loss. Though these parts don't contribute to making more power, they're very necessary when you start making more power and are usually overlooked.
Want more power? Check the Stage 2 Upgrade Path
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