I've had my Blitz SUS intake for over a year now..it was my first mod coming from a civic and I didnt know anybetter, but I havent seen or noticed any unusual things with my wagon. I saw a post saying that an air intake is just as bad as a boost controller?? How does that compare???
I've had my Blitz SUS intake for over a year now..it was my first mod coming from a civic and I didnt know anybetter, but I havent seen or noticed any unusual things with my wagon. I saw a post saying that an air intake is just as bad as a boost controller?? How does that compare???
Just because your car hasn't gotten a CEL yet doesn't mean eveything is just peachy.The best way to tell if the intake is not so hot is to measure the inside diameter with a digital caliper.The magic number is 65mm.If you read back through this post you will see the intake skews the MAF signal.It causes mis readings and lean conditions at w.o.t./full boost.Re-read this thread again.Also checking in some of the other forums FAQ's will maybe help too.Almost evry single WRX forum will have an explanation to this question.
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Aarg matey!
ECU Pirated by RomRaider
I have a k&n typhoon [ short ram ] for my car. As I see it, the main concern one should have with the cai that goes into the fender is that whenever one is caught in a rainstorm, there is a big risk of sucking water into your engine. Not good.
Hopefully i'm not porked over here...
So i have the AEM CAI, bought the car with it already on it. The car ran decent for the most part when I bought it off a buddy of mine. However, the tires worn down to the thread were a sure sign that he'd beaten the thing like a red-headed step child... Anyway after a while of getting used to the car and everything I started noticing a problem with it while climbing RPMs... around 4.5k-5.5k it would feel as though the boost would drop rather than climb. No CEL's ever came on so being the novice i def was at the time and still kind of am today, I figured it was just one of those things that would just get worked out on its own... and for the most part it did. The jumpiness of the boosting while climbing RPMs has faded greatly since the addition of the UP/DP... however about 3 days after adding them I got a CEL. Took it back to the shop and they told me that since the DP was catless that the censor was reading "too much smog" and thats why the CEL came on. He charged me $12 and said he put on a little wire kit that bypassed the code. CEL was gone and hasn't come back since. However the entire time since I've first got the car i've noticed an overall drop off in peak performance from the car, and it just so happens the shop that did all the work on my car decided to fall off the face of the planet after talk of shady buisness. Any ideas as to the hole I've got myself in or am I just paranoid and this isn't that big of a deal?
the CEL from the up/dp is common and normal and fine. The resistor fix was a perfectly fine way of fixing it. Removing the CAI might help your performance but I doubt is giving you any kind of major problem. The issue with them is that they cost good money and do nothing except slightly reduce performance.
I dont know if everyone agrees but what about the idea of keeping the stock intake minus the silencer with a nice perrin or k&n drop in filter... hmm
It just seems like people want to upgrade their intake just to do it.. trying to find ways around what people like cosmo are saying just so it looks ok that they are changing their box to a short ram or CAI... In personal experience, I regret getting a shortram it was a waste of money, i had a slower response and it felt like I lost my power bend quite a bit.. took longer to get to the power is what it seemed.. And I had a Perrin shortram, a farely reputable brand.
I am sure if you ask anyone here with experience.. they will most likely say keep the stocker!
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Gregory-
keep it in the dirt.
I'm confused as to why a short ram would create problems though? I understand why the CAI causes a problem with the bend out of the fender, but wouldn't the shortram solve that problem? You're still getting more air intake with the short ram, granted its not cold air but as we've already established cold air doesn't really make much of a difference when its shooting into the turbo first instead of the manifold. Wouldn't having a shortram just mean that you're pulling in the massive air flow without the drawback of having a CAI down in the fender?
I'm confused as to why a short ram would create problems though? I understand why the CAI causes a problem with the bend out of the fender, but wouldn't the shortram solve that problem? You're still getting more air intake with the short ram, granted its not cold air but as we've already established cold air doesn't really make much of a difference when its shooting into the turbo first instead of the manifold. Wouldn't having a shortram just mean that you're pulling in the massive air flow without the drawback of having a CAI down in the fender?
It has to do with the I.D. of the pipe.It has to be exactly the same as stock or the MAF is no longer calibrated.The stock I.D. is 2.60" and that is not a standard "pipe" diameter.Most companies just use a 2.75 or 3" pipe because it's readily available and cuts down manufacturing costs. http://www.ecutek.com/tuning/induction/ http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/intakes/
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Aarg matey!
ECU Pirated by RomRaider
good point but the fenderwell is still much colder.. or else what is the point of a CAI on hondas and whatnot, cause a lot of them stick only inside the fenderwell. and after driving my car hard when i had my perrin short ram, that whole filter and piping was pretty damn hot. colder or hotter weather..
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Gregory-
keep it in the dirt.
The K&N one has the right idea with the heat sheild that seals at the hood.It actually doesn't mess up the MAF either.Little expensive but once you start getting to that 300whp mark you can start shopping for a used one on ebay.
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Aarg matey!
ECU Pirated by RomRaider
sorry guys, but can anyone please explain why the afm problems cant be fixed by extending the afm wires and mounting the afm right behind the filter inside the inner guard when using a cold air intake, this way it no longer has the bend right before it? if you use the most conductive wire you can find the 12-14 inches of wire will not effect the resistance of the stock wiring. Anyone???
sorry guys, but can anyone please explain why the afm problems cant be fixed by extending the afm wires and mounting the afm right behind the filter inside the inner guard when using a cold air intake, this way it no longer has the bend right before it? if you use the most conductive wire you can find the 12-14 inches of wire will not effect the resistance of the stock wiring. Anyone???
If that was the only think wrong with the intake then i'm sure that would work but would you want to pay $150+ just to have to modify (buy the new MAF plate,weld it and plug the exhisting hole) it to work properly for very little gains over the stock one?Waste of time and money.
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Aarg matey!
ECU Pirated by RomRaider
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How does that compare???
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