If you're reading this how-to, then you probably know that most people that have installed a turbo timer on their WRX and have the OEM Subaru Security System installed, are forced to cut the wire that goes to the shock sensor. The reason is because the vibrations from the idling exhaust can be enough to set the alarm off while it's turbo timing.
This mod takes advantage of the fact when any door or when the trunk is open and you lock your car, it will beep 3-5 times depending on your model year. After the door is shut, the car beeps once confirming that the alarm has been armed. This mod taps into the trunk sensor to "trick" the vehicle into thinking it's open while it is turbo timing, and "shuts" the imaginary door when the ignition is off. I use a normally open (NO) relay to accomplish this.
Here is a video demonstration of it fuctioning. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/5...090148b72e.htm
Some of the documentation from the repair manual I need to confirm this would work
This tutorial will also assume a few things. I will assume:
1) the turbo timer has already been installed on the car
you can find the tutorial here http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=228
(note, you must be logged in to view the photos) Do not perform any modifications that "allow your car to work with the security alarm." Especially, do not perform the one that cuts the gray wire and splices into the ACC+. This will eliminate the shock sensor feature.
2) you have preformed the modification to allow you to lock your car with the keyless remote while it's turbo timing (it will talk about cutting a dark green wire w/ a black stripe.
3) you have a basic understanding of electricity... DO NOT EVER EVER EVER let a live/hot/power wire touch any bare metal like the chassis. But that's okay since not only will you be mindful not to do such a thing, but you will also disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before you begin.
4) you know how to solder. You may get away with using vampire clips, but you'll have to use your own digression for that.
5) you know how to remove interior panels of the car, get under the carpet, removing your back seats, and the interior panels of your trunk. This is necessary to run wires. It's quite easy if you're familiarly with Subaru's variety of plastic clips.
*** DISCLAIMER ***
Although I am quite confident in my modification, and my tech article, I cannot be accountable for people making dumb mistakes, because without question, mistakes will happen. You do have a risk of ruining your entire electrical system attempting this mod as you do with countless others. If you have to ask if this will void your warranty, you might as well close this how-to now, because it no doubtable will. You are attempting this mod at your own risk. If you mess up, I cannot guarantee any support since I as far as I know, am the only person to ever successfully attempt, complete, and post a how-to on a mod like this, although I will do my best to try and help you by chance you do something wrong. If you fry something... well, that's another story.
PLEASE READ THOUGH THE HOW-TO COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING THIS MOD.
Needle Nose Plyers
Flat Head Screwdriver
Something to create heat to shrink your tubing (I used a stick lighter)
Lots of 14-16 gauge wire (when I mean 14-16 in the follow, I mean the gauge, not the amount)
14-16 (blue) F Quick Disconnects
14-16 Ring Terminals
14-16 Vampire clips
14-16 Heat Shink Tubing
Choosing a Relay
Now I will give you the part number and the place I got my relay from, but what I ordered is more expensive. The reason is because I wasn't sure of the car's logic and needed a relay that acted as both a normally open (NO) and a normally closed (NC) relay. Here are the specs of the relay you need. FYI, SPST stands for single pole single throw, and SPDT stand for single pole double throw. In reality, both will work.
SPST NO Relay
12VDC (give or take 2 volts)
The one I got is from digikey.com, part # Z981-ND
RadioShack one should
also work fine model # 275-226