Eibach Pro-Plus Kit Install & Review - Warning: bandwidth hungry, lots of photos - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #16 of 21 Old 08-25-2010, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Front Sway Bar Install

Lifting the car off all 4's really made it easier here. Again, not totally necessary as long as the front end is off the ground.

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You'll have to remove the plastic splash guard. If yours is missing one, it's probably because someone tried to change your oil and decided to throw it away rather than putting one back on (if it's on a lift, it's not even necessary to take it off). At least that's what happened when I had my Outback. A few bolts and several clips hold it on. 12mm wrench and a flat head for popping out the clips. I have considerably less clips and mine looks a bit different since it's been heavily damaged from mudding... hey, it is a Subaru after all.

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Picture of the splash guard off the vehicle.

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Shot of the sway bar.

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You know the drill by now. Grab your can of PB Blaster.

Sway bar mount

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Endlinks

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U-Brace

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Jon
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RIP Colin McRae
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post #17 of 21 Old 08-25-2010, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Front Sway Bar components

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Time to start pressing the bushings in. I didn't have access to a vice this time, so I seated them up on a piece of cardboard on the ground and stepped on them.

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Start removing the bolts holding on the U-Brace. They're 17mm with 2 12mm's in the very front. This is a photo of the 1st one I removed. Had to use a breaker bar most of the way since it was so rusty. All mine might look different because I have a Whiteline ALK installed which means longer bolts and spacers between the chassis and the brace.

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So much rust. One of the Whiteline spacers crumbled apart as I pulled it off.

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U-Brace off the car. Just slide it out of your way.

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Remove this plate. Two of the bolts have nuts welded to the frame, but the other two you'll need another wrench since it's just bolted on.

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Time to remove the endlinks from the vehicle. Again, not necessary to remove them from the sway bar since it's coming off the car anyway. This is interesting since they're spherical bushings, so you'll need a 15mm allen key to prevent it from turning.

BE VERY CAREFUL. IT IS VERY EASY TO STRIP THE ALLEN BOLT. Clean out the hole as much as you can so you can get the allen key as far in as you can.

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Jon
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post #18 of 21 Old 08-25-2010, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Well, one side came off okay. Even knowing the above information going into it, we still managed to strip one side. Here we go again. We ended up using a sawzall with wood/metal blades. Probably would have had better luck if we got the right blades or even a hacksaw. Went thru probably 5 blades.

You don't see it in the pictures except in the 2nd to last photo, but I'm holding a wrench on the bolt in place to prevent it from turning while my friend cuts.

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Needed to remove the rubber boot to get better access.

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40 minutes later. Take that!

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post #19 of 21 Old 08-25-2010, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Comparison of the stock and Eibach bar.

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Again, lube the bushings. You can reuse the same packet from the 1st one since you should have plenty left over. Save the other for the future.

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Start by mounting the endlinks 1st again. The direction of this bolt is WRONG! Read the remainder of this post before proceeding.

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Wrong again, keep going.

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Ah, well, if you take a break like I do. And then manage to lose one of the bolts during your break, you'll have to run to somewhere like Ace Hardware to pick up another bolt. After much arguing with my friends whether or not the parts are metric or standard, apparently it's a 3/8ths bolt.

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Wrong, keep going.

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And going.

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And going.

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going some more.

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Jon
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post #20 of 21 Old 08-25-2010, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Realized the endlink needs to "go" up before the bar is mounted.

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AH, and now my mistake is now apparent. The bolt threads sticking out in this direction risks hitting the bar. Whether or not it actually does, I don't know since I wasn't willing to take the chance to have to take all apart over again. I suggest you do the same.

Now that you know, you can mount the bar and proceed.

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Now that looks a lot better. Just remember, washers go to metal surfaces. Big flat disk thingys go to bushings. All 4 bolts are identical in size for the front so no worries there.

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Bar installed

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Bar installed to mount

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A glance at the other side.

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Reinstall that plate

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The fun part. I manged to do this by myself the last time when I had to install my ALK, so I was determined to do it again. I used my knees to prop up the end of the U-Brace while I put the bolts in.

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Front bolts in.

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Jon
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post #21 of 21 Old 08-25-2010, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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More shots of the brace going back in.

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Remember my spacer from my Whiteline ALK kit that crumbled? Nothing that a stack of stainless steel washers won't cure.

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About done, let's finish up.

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Looks good. Let's put that splash guard back on.

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And that's it. You are done. Not get yourself an alignment and head for the nearest road of twisties and see how it feels. If there are any questions, feel free to post them in the Handling section of this forum. I'll be happy to answer questions. A review will soon follow.

Jon
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