Were should I start for a "sleeper"? - Subaru WRX Forum
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#1 Old 09-03-2008, 08:54 AM
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Were should I start for a "sleeper"?

I just bought my 07 subaru WRX wagon in November and I love it. I am a noob so sorry if this is a stupid question, I would just like to get peoples oppinion and find a starting point.
I'm now starting to want to get some more HP out of my subaru WRX wagon, but still have it be a reliable DD. I would eventually want this car to be a sleeper, so I'm not looking to have a loud exause, or switching the by-pass valve for a BOV. so my question is, what should be the frist mods I sould start looking to add or change out? What are some brand names that have quality parts and will work well with the subaru?

-Chris
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#2 Old 09-03-2008, 09:19 AM
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a downpipe ( cobb, perrin, invidia, megan racing) and a reflash will be your best bet for a sleeper.

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#3 Old 09-03-2008, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by nagyhead View Post
a downpipe ( cobb, perrin, invidia, megan racing) and a reflash will be your best bet for a sleeper.
x2... Bellmouth downpipe, and some sort of EngineManagement... Like a COBB Acessport or a protune...

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#4 Old 09-03-2008, 12:19 PM
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Once I add on the modds would I need to take it to a shop to have it retuned? or wold the EngineManagement take care of that problem, also would it be worth my effort at all to increase my boost at all? (only by 2 or 3 lbs) I think that stock 07 WRX only have 11lbs of boost when the later years 02 to 05 had 13lbs? Would changing the boost that much make any difference at all? Sorry for all of the questions, I have been reading through the forum and it gets a bit connfusing trying to figure out what a good setup would be for my type of style.

Thanks again for all of the input so far, it is definetly giving me knowledge of were to start
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#5 Old 09-03-2008, 12:54 PM
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i wouldnt reccomend raising the boost levels at all until you have modified the fuel system. more boost means more air and not enough fuel = blowin stuff up. cylinder 3 is touchy when you go messin with boost levels on these engines. i would get the up pipe, down pipe and get the accesport and just run a stage 1 map. like i said, i wouldnt touch boost levels until the fuel system is upgraded.(injectors,rails,pump,etc.):eek:
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#6 Old 09-03-2008, 02:26 PM
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if you choose to get a reflash (dyno tune), then the tuner will most likely raise the boost. raising it a couple of lbs wont hurt any thing. that will also be you cheapest way to go, because a reflash is around 350-400. a cobb acessport is 700, and you only get off the shelf maps.

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#7 Old 09-03-2008, 04:44 PM
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You don't need a new uppipe. Don't 06 and newer come without a cat in the up?
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#8 Old 09-03-2008, 05:19 PM
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STi05817's advice is horrible. Please ignore advice from posters with RED reputation and listen to ones with GREEN reputation

Anyway, you don't need an up pipe. You don't need to upgrade your fuel system just yet. All you need is a downpipe and a reflash to go to "stage 2". This will raise the boost from 11.5 PSI to about 16PSI and yes, that does make quite a bit of difference.

As nagyhead said, there are lots of ways to reflash (Reflashing is a type of engine management). They all have their advantages and disadvantages. There are cheap solutions, flexible solutions, and higher performance solutions. Just a question of what you want to spend and who's in your area.

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#9 Old 09-03-2008, 09:57 PM
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hey bro ive got an 06 rex my self go to cobb tunning.com n order the high flow bell mouth down pipe with cobb acess port stage 2 with u running a vf34 turbo if ## not an sti ull be around 16-17.5 lbs off boost the car will fuel cut at 18psi i know from experience usen ## factory recert valve great idea for now and get the spt cold air induction from subaru but get a hks filter foam for it will gain a prox 15 hp u dont have to use cobb but preffered ive had good experience from turbo xs part 2 hince im runnig catless on my car
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#10 Old 09-03-2008, 11:42 PM
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My suggestion for you:

1. Search for information on a Cobb dp (downpipe). In my opinion, they are one of the highest quality downpipes on the market, since you said that's what you want. Decide for yourself if you are willing to spend the cash to get one and if you would like to get a cat (catalytic converter) or not. Reasons are: cat = save the environment a little, spend about 100 bucks more... no cat = squeeze out literally a few more hp, have a bad smelling exhaust, make more noise, be less legal (depending where you live).
2. Don't upgrade the cat back portion of your exhaust. The stock dp is the biggest restriction on your car and the Cobb aftermarket dp is made to perfectly mate up with your stock turbo and stock cat back exhaust. I'd recommend buying a new turbo to dp gasket and replacing it when you switch. You might also want to get a new stock "donut-style" exhaust gasket that comes between your stock dp and stock cat back exhaust if yours crumbles when you take it apart. I haven't heard a Cobb dp + Stock cat back combo on a WRX in person, but I have heard it on YouTube and it doesn't sound very loud to me, so you'll have an almost stock sounding exhaust and a stock looking exhaust (read: sleeper status).
3. Search for information on Cobb's AccessPORT Version 2.0. In my opinion, this is one of the easiest ways to get to "Stage 2" <-- search that term too if you're not familiar with it (it's basically engine management + a dp). Make sure you buy this before or at the same time as you get your dp so you can immediately reflash your ECU to a "Stage 2" map so you don't hurt your car.

This will get you the main reliable power over stock that you sound like you're looking for. Optional things would be: upgrading your stock air filter to a K&N panel filter, upgrading your stock crank pulley to a lightweight (NOT UNDERDRIVE = can cause problems) crank pulley (almost any brand is ok, I have Perrin), and that's about it as far as basic reliable sleeper power mods go. If you want to get more hardcore, I can't help you because this is the level that I'm currently at and I don't know very much more about more advanced modding yet.

Also, I won't throw out hp numbers because seriously, who can predict what parts give you exactly what in terms of numbers on paper? I just know that my personal setup is very similar to this and I feel a significant improvement over stock power levels and the power delivery is much smoother and less jerky as I'm sure you can feel sometimes when you hit the gas in your car.

John
07 WRX (Albins 5MT + Blouch 20G)
Jorge Carrillo Tuned (365 whp/340 wtq)
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#11 Old 09-04-2008, 07:11 AM
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man show are u running aftermarket boost controller with your cobb port if so what brand? and what is your boost level before fuel cut or does cobb fix it at 18psi and higher
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#12 Old 09-04-2008, 08:06 AM
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Thanks for all of the advice guys, I realy appreciate it. I'm thinking that I am going to do a little more saving and purchse the COBB dp and reflash for now and see how much bigger my smile gets when I drive .

Man Show- in your post (read: sleeper status) is that a book I could purchace? I looked it up on the forum and only 6 or 7 threads came up with none of that in the titles of the treads?
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#13 Old 09-04-2008, 08:49 AM
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I have an HKS Catback, and its so loud that i my DP is sitting in the basement till i get something quieter. So I dont recommend going with HKS. I do recommend getting the Cobb AccessPort Stage 1 with a drop in K&N Filter. There was a significant power gain and delivery is much smoother. I dont know how the stock Cat back will work with a DP i heard its not the best idea supposedly too much back pressure. Im going to try borla hush. For a long time i could not make up my mind about a BV ( is it necessary or not) and i bought a GFB WRX hybrid. Will install it on friday. I belive that the first thing you should do is get the Cobb AccessPort, it gives you many options. Stage one will raise your boost level, and make power delivery much smoother, you dont even need any other modifications to run stage 1. later you can get a DP and a nice stealth cat back and run stage 2 and that should satisfy your cravings for a while.
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#14 Old 09-04-2008, 09:32 AM
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jrswrx69: Nope, I'm not using an aftermarket boost controller. I'm not sure what level my boost is at when fuel cut hits - which I'm pretty sure I hit every once in a while on the highway. I'd have to plug in my AP and check it out on that gauge some time. I was under the impression that fuel cut is a safety feature built into Cobb's conservative off-the-shelf maps - is this right? I don't think I drive my car hard enough that this will be an issue. I can probably count on one hand the number of times that I've hit fuel cut.

SilverWagon7: Heh, nope, it's not a book (that I know of anyway). It's just an expression to clarify exactly what I meant by saying what I said

Joszfor_p: "I dont know how the stock Cat back will work with a DP i heard its not the best idea supposedly too much back pressure." - In response to this, the Cobb dp is manufactured with a taper where it connects to the cat back that goes from 3" to 2.5". This makes a smooth transition to the stock cat back which has 2.25" diameter piping. The stock cat back section of the exhaust is really not very restrictive. The piping is plenty big for Stage 2 power levels and up to around 300 hp or so. Only when you get into the really big hp numbers should you consider upgrading the pipe size of your cat back - unless you desire sound and looks, which many people do. There's nothing wrong with that

John
07 WRX (Albins 5MT + Blouch 20G)
Jorge Carrillo Tuned (365 whp/340 wtq)
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#15 Old 09-04-2008, 09:48 AM
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i wish i knew that before i got that HKS fart
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