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- - Prosport oil filter sandwich adapter plate fitment issue (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f75/prosport-oil-filter-sandwich-adapter-plate-fitment-issue-30621/)
Prosport oil filter sandwich adapter plate fitment issue
I'm currently in the process of installing a Prosport premium 52 mm green/white electronic oil pressure gauge in my 2007 WRX sedan and I found out the hard way that the Prosport oil filter sandwich adapter plate [U][B]DOES NOT FIT[/B][/U] on my car.
I'm slightly ashamed because I usually do plenty of research before I buy car parts, but this was an impulse-buy. After the fact, I found this little gem on Prosport's website:
"M20 x 1.5 - Fits most Subaru, Non-metric Honda, Mitsubishi, Acura, Hyundai , Nissan Sentra 2.5L, 350Z, & Mazda RX-7, RX-8 & Honda S2000
[I]Note:-Some modification required for 06' and newer Subaru to make this fit. You may also consider our remote oil Pressure Kit[/I]"
I wish I would have known this before I purchased the part. The modification involved to make the plate fit is not worth the headache. The sandwich adapter plate makes contact with every exhaust manifold heat shield that it possibly could so you would have to either grind away a significant amount of material from the heat shields and potentially increase under-hood temperatures, remove the heat shields entirely and certainly increase under-hood temperatures (unless you wrap or otherwise coat the stock exhaust manifold), or spend a bunch of money on aftermarket tubular headers and/or wrap/spray/gaskets/hardware. Now, I did recently place an order for a GrimmSpeed P&P exhaust manifold and I don't intend to reinstall the stock heat shields because I had the manifold ceramic coated, but there is yet another issue keeping the sandwich plate from fitting...
The metal nipple and attached black rubber hose that come straight down from the oil filter attachment location are entirely too close to the threaded stud where the filter attaches to the engine. You would either have to bend that metal nipple to the side and risk cracking it or shave some material off of the side of the sandwich adapter plate to provide enough clearance to actually thread the part on to the engine.
I scratched the plate when I was test-fitting it, so now I'm stuck with a $35 paper weight. It's entirely my fault for not invesitgating the fitment issue prior to purchasing the part, but I just wanted to share my experience with everyone so you guys don't make the same mistake.
I just ordered a galley plug with a 1/8" NPT hole pre-drilled/tapped in it which I will be installing in the galley plug location on the top of the block under the tmic. Besides temporarily moving some hoses out of the way for the install, it looks like there is plenty of clearance on top of the stock galley plug for the electronic oil pressure sender to feed straight up from the aftermarket galley plug, but I thought the same thing about the clearance around the stock oil filter :poorme:
Ah, the joys of modding :rolleyes:
[url=http://www.fastwrx.com/reoilprsekit.html]Remote Oil Pressure Sending Kit - Gauge Installation Accesoiries[/url]
No more worries about the sender being too big to fit on that galley plug. You can also try the one on the back of the head on passenger side.
I've never used a sandwich plate adaptor on a Subaru, but have seen plenty fail or leak on Porsches (944 oil cooler senders) and a few other race cars. I would be very picky about the manufacturer before I would consider using one for any application. Perfect fitment is absolutely critical for them not to be an annoying way to loose oil like an old British car. Sorry to hear yours is a paperweight.
BTW even with ceramic coating I still use the OEM heat shields on the manifolds. There's no such thing as "too much" when it comes to controlling underhood heat IMO. I saw your post where you said you just don't like the way they look, but I'll bet a quick test with a pyrometer with and without the shields will show that they're worth keeping on.
This is probably something that's already been covered (sorry if it is) Why not use the bung where the factory sensor threads in on top of the block ? Since you'll have a good gauge you could just pull the bulb out of the stupid little oil icon on your dash.
Thanks Chris, I was seriously debating whether or not to get that.
Good: Gets the sensor further away from the heat of the turbo potentially extending the life of it, ensures sufficient clearance for the sensor
Bad: Costs more mula, I would need to figure out a way to get a wrench down there (make or buy a crow's foot) to install the thing among the nest of hoses since I wouldn't be able to just use a deep socket for the plug/sensor, extra connections = extra potential for leaks, more tubing/wiring to route and mount creatively in a tight space
I think I'll take my chances with only the drilled/tapped galley plug for now. I spotted a blank factory galley plug on the top of the block near the turbo on the passenger's side that shouldn't be too difficult to get to with some extensions if I unclip one or two air hoses.
Regarding the OEM exhaust manifold heat shields, I might put them back on if I can find some new bolts that will fit - mine are horribly rusted, but the heat shields are in decent shape. Who knows, I might even get fancy and paint the heat shields and bolts with black high temp paint.
I thought about using the bung where the factory sensor plugs in, but:
1. I prefer to have a secondary low oil warning since it's already there - even though by the time that one comes on, it's probably too late
2. It would be good to have that in working order if I ever sell the car and remove the gauges
3. I don't want to mess with a T-fitting to keep both sensors in the same bung (again, more connections = greater potential for leaks)
4. I don't want to tear the stock gauge cluster apart just to remove a light bulb - believe it or not, there actually is a limit to the unnecessary work I'm willing to do :)
I really appreciate the info though.
Side note: is the double-thick gasket connecting the exhaust manifold to the up pipe worth getting, or is the regular thickness gasket good enough?
After numerous horror stories regarding Prosport oil sammich adapters/pressure senders, I would NEVER actually use one.
Definitely double thick on the up pipe to exhaust mani gasket. The first time I installed I used the regular and it sealed up after some hassle... The second time I did it (when I did my up pipe), I used the 2x thick and there were no issues, even with the aftermarket up pipe.
Also, the stock crossover pipe heat shield won't fit on the GS piece, so you can't use that. I wrapped mine and I would recommend anybody to wrap theirs too. I am pondering taking my heat shields off and just wrapping the elbows too, but I would grind off the parts that the heat shields attach to so they're easier to wrap.
The premium gauge sender should fit in the galley plug under the intercooler. The sender for the regular version of the gauge is much bigger, and when I installed it I broke the first one and had to order another. I got the remote sender and it's much easier to see and replace in case it gets a leak or breaks.
It's been over a year and it's still working great, so I'm happy.
Here's a tip on a tool you'll want to install the gauge. You'll want a crows foot wrench or else it will be very difficult to get a wrench on the sender nut.
It looks like this.
As you can see it's pretty tight down there, so the remote sender is worth it.
You can see the remote sender and the size of the "Performance" gauge pressure sender right next to my SPT turbo heat shield.
Enjoy. I've had good luck with my gauges considering the cost.
Thanks brfatal. I definitely won't be using the sandwich adapter now.
Chris, thanks for the double thick gasket info. I guessed on that one too, but luckily I made the right decision. Worst case, if the double thick one doesn't work, I'll just run down the street to my local dealership and pick up a stock exh. mani. --> up pipe gasket. I didn't realize the stock heat shield wouldn't fit over the GS crosspipe... maybe I'll try my hand at heat-wrapping after all. I was thinking the same thing about grinding the tabs on the elbows to wrap them, but since I got mine ceramic coated I'll probably just leave it alone. At this point, I'm thinking I'll roll with the heat shields on the elbows painted with high temp paint and the GS crosspipe wrapped/sprayed (except the flex section). Sound like a good plan?
Thanks blk05WRX. The second pic is the exact spot where I'm probably going to mount my sender. I do have the premium series Prosport oil pressure gauge, so I don't have the bulky gold sender that's in your picture. Mine is just a little clip on a little nut which should easily fit in that area. It's also probably going to be easier to route the wire from the rubber grommet in the fire wall directly to that spot instead of having to route it under the engine to the oil filter, had I been able to use the sandwich adapter. The remote sending hose looks like it was meant to be installed in that location - sweet engine shot.
Glad I could help. Good luck. It will all be worth it in the end and you can impress passengers. :-)
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