tiny rust dots on my trunk and doors..... - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #16 of 32 Old 03-18-2010, 01:08 PM
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Vew, do you use a fresh piece of clay every time you clay bar like the guy in the video recommended? I've been splitting my clay in half and reusing the "dirty" piece once or twice since it usually doesn't look too dirty. Also, what do you use to lubricate your clay? I've been using Meguiar's Quick Detail spray and it seems to work pretty well. Also, I usually clay bar my car at least once but sometimes twice or three times a year if I can find the time - how about you?

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post #17 of 32 Old 03-18-2010, 04:19 PM
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I was under the impression that claybaring should be done twice a year MAX. It is an abrasive all be it a very very fine one. My detailer is very careful about over doing it and wearing the paint prematurely.

Brad

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post #18 of 32 Old 03-19-2010, 09:14 AM
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I know I do it once before winter and throw two coats of wax on to protect it and then once after winter when the weather gets nice again to keep the paint fresh all summer. I can't remember if I've ever done it three times in a year or not. And I don't rub very hard... very light pressure, so I'd imagine it's not much worse than all the salt/road grit that the paint experiences all winter.

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post #19 of 32 Old 03-19-2010, 09:47 AM
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I usually use quick detailer, but I'm finding that it leaves too much of a residue behind that I don't like. I think this year after I exhaust the remainder of my quick detailer bottles, I'm going to switch over to the ONR clay bar dilution. But, on the dime, you can use soapy water with no ill effects other than having to rinse and dry the car again.

I USED to clay bar about once every 3 months. I used an ultra fine detailing clay. Honestly, unless you know what you're doing, I would stick once or twice a year. As long as you're providing enough lubrication and are not using too dirty of a clay bar, you should be fine. The risk from claying is light marring (micro scratches, but don't freak out because the act of washing your car put micro scratches in the paint). Easily removed with a buffer. Change the clay after 4-5x (depending how dirty the car was to begin with). NEVER use a clay after it's been dropped. I bump old clay to wheel duty. Portioning the clay is fine and most people including myself do.

To dispel some misconceptions, claying (if done properly) does not remove clear coat. The polish that usually follows clay barring does. Yes, claying can put very very fine scratches in the paint. Most of which you will not notice over the other swirl marks in your paint, but again, that's what polishing is for. If you don't have swirl marks, you must know what you're doing when washing your car so my explanation would not apply, you don't drive it, or you already know how to polish .

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post #20 of 32 Old 03-19-2010, 08:21 PM
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i just washed my car yesterday and noticed it all over my car too. you say its normal? how does brake dust get to my front bumper? and you said its embedded in the paint, if thats the case then clay barring it off will only expose the metal and form real rust. Sorry don’t mean to jump all over your words if you used them wrong but to me this sounds like a total nightmare. Personally I think the dealership should have to take it in and hand it over to there painters and do whatever needs to be done. Im not saying your wrong or anything but a brand new car shouldn’t be my worry to go out and buy stuff and put 2-3-4 hours of detailing in to.

same thing with the tires that come on these cars! there awesome for summer but i dont think they should be aloud to sell a car in a snow zone with tires that 100% should NOT be driven in snow! i already had to throw down and extra $600 for snow tires and have now paid $80 twice to put them on and take them off. rims are already messed up for the installs and removals

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post #21 of 32 Old 03-20-2010, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
how does brake dust get to my front bumper? and you said its embedded in the paint, if thats the case then clay barring it off will only expose the metal and form real rust.
EXACTLY! I have this crap on my car too and took it to the dealer and they told me it's not a paint defect and I have to claybar my car. They claim it's brake dust and debris from the air and stuff. I'm like how in the hell would I get brake dust on the back of my car (hatch) and on the front of my car???!!! So I washed it again today and claybarred for over an hour and I didn't even get 1 door clean! This is ridiculous! Anyone have any recommendations?

(My car is Satin White Pearl... my fav. color on the new gen. but man this is pissing me off! Never had this problem on my '07 Si)
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post #22 of 32 Old 03-22-2010, 01:19 AM
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Tim, I as well have the satin white pearl, although in the sedan. It did take me about 2 hours to get all the dots fully removed. This was possible thanks to the clay bar kit I had bought. Also, are you anywhere near Albany?
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post #23 of 32 Old 03-22-2010, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by soup_notzee View Post
Tim, I as well have the satin white pearl, although in the sedan. It did take me about 2 hours to get all the dots fully removed. This was possible thanks to the clay bar kit I had bought. Also, are you anywhere near Albany?
Nope, I'm in Syracuse. I tried to claybar my car yet again the next morning and had no luck. It takes too much force to get these spots off. I'm taking it back to the dealer on Wed. to get another opinion and see what they can do... if they still tell me nothing I'm going to take it to a detail shop.

Which claybar kit did you use? I used the Meguiars one.
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post #24 of 32 Old 03-22-2010, 05:26 PM
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Mothers clay bar kit
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post #25 of 32 Old 03-23-2010, 04:47 PM
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It's not just brake dust from your car. It's brake dust from cars in front of you, what fragments of metal that you see as dust get kicked up from behind your car. Basically, it's dirt and dust made of metal that end up on your car, but they happen to be so sharp, they embed into the paint. Now, it doesn't fully puncture the paint. That would just be silly. Just far enough in to resist washing, but you could probably pick them off with your nail. After being stuck in the paint, the contaminate rusts and that's what you see.

They're not so deep that you could remove forcefully with say a plastic card, but obviously you would never want to do that since it would cause major scratches to your paint, hense why a clay bar was developed. I assure you the dealer for once is not making this stuff up, and it's a very common paint contaminate.

If you're serious on diving into the detailing world, you'll be amazed on the levels of "clean" exist. Next class, topic on removing fine scratches, dead, and oxidized paint.

Jon
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post #26 of 32 Old 03-23-2010, 04:51 PM
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Found the illustration I was looking for when I first read the OP.

Metal shaving land on paint's surface


Shavings start to oxidize


Rust forms in the paint


Example of rust contamination



All images were taken from properautocare.com
Using a Clay Bar to Remove Paint Contamination

Jon
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post #27 of 32 Old 03-23-2010, 07:56 PM
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that illustration is nice but whats not is that if its left you clearly see that it will get down to the bare metal and form real rust. also, the first barrier the metal flakes has to puncture threw is your clear coat. after you clay bar the metal flakes away your clear coat has still been compromised and will lead to future problems and quicker clear coat and paint failure.

i talked to the local dealer and they too in Ohio say its not a warranty problem and they wont touch it. told me i should of bought "paint sealer protection" when i bought the car. this "paint sealer" will NOT allow the metal flakes to dig into the paint. i think it was like an extra $600-$1200 when i bought the car. the dealer will however clay bar the car and wax it for $300.

ive owned over 20 cars in my life, 3 being brand new. the is the ONLY time i have seen or heard of this.

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post #28 of 32 Old 03-24-2010, 11:41 AM
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IMO, that illustration gives a good idea on what's going on, but poor in reality. Rust can't magically teleport thru layers of paint. Paint on modern cars is a multistage paint process. Primer goes over the bare metal, followed by color and clear coat. I don't realistically see any metal contamination puncturing that many layers unless the paint was compromised to begin with. I think at this point in time, I've explained as much as I can and anything taken past that is paranoia. As far as the crevasses left by the metal being removed? Yes, they will be there but no worse than typical every day scratches and swirls on the car's paint.

Sealant/Wax can probably reduce it, but I doubt it can 100% prevent it. Sealant you can do yourself, and it's just as easy as waxing. Typically I put a layer of acrylic based sealant like Klasse, let cure, and then put a coat of wax over top of it.

Jon
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post #29 of 32 Old 03-24-2010, 06:29 PM
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Finally brought my car back to the dealer and told them the claybar kit wasn't working... they sent me across the street to their used car building which has a body shop as well. I spoke with a rep. from there and he told me to pull my car up and brought out a Meguiars rubbing compound and tried it on one spot of my car and it worked! I was so relieved! So I went to Autozone and bought some and it took me about 45min. to an hour to do my entire car but it is good as new! So happy I finally found a solution!
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post #30 of 32 Old 03-25-2010, 03:04 PM
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I don't know how the clay bar kit did not work unless it was applied incorrectly. Rubbing compound is the last resort as it's pretty abrasive and can cause severe scratches if not used properly. I would not advise this as a solution to the majority of people having similar problems with rust contamination.

Jon
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