Subwoofer woes, not enough power? - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-28-2010, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Subwoofer woes, not enough power?

I have a pair of 10'' Visionik sub woofers in enclosed boxes with tweeters wired into their respective corners. I know their bargain speakers and the amp I got isnt any better but it's something to hold me over till I actually buy something decent. Now with that being said lets get to the meat of the problem.

When I play music the tweeters themselves play, but the actually subwoofer doesnt move at all regardless of the volume and i'm pretty sure i've exhausted all the menu configurations possible to try and produce sound from them but to no success. I'm not exactly sure what the problem is itself, whether it be my headunit, amp or subwoofers themselves?

My head unit:
Pioneer AVH-4000 DVD double din touch screen. (It has a built in amplifer, not sure if thats the problem?)

Amplifier:
Rockstar RS-1602 1,600 watt 2 channel high powered car amplifier with free bass remote included
Mosfet power supply
Class A/B
Amplifier protection circuitry will disable the amplifier if input overload, short circuit or extremely high temperature conditions are detected.
If amp needs to go to protect mode, the LED indicator on the front panel will be illuminated, indicating the amplifier has gone into protect mode
Bridgeable to mono mode
Fuse Rating: 50A (2x25A fuses)
Max Power Output in mono mode : 1600w x 1 @ 4 ohms
Max Power Output in stereo mode : 800w x 2 @ 2 ohms
Tested RMS output power in stereo mode: 250 x 2 @ 2 ohms
Tested RMS output power in mono mode: 500 x 1 @ 4 ohms
2 ohm stable in stereo mode / 4 ohm stable in bridged mode
Input Impedance : 22K Ohm
Input Sensitivity : 200mV~8V
T.H.D.: <0.05%
Hi pass Freq.: 50Hz-250Hz
Low pass Freq.: 50Hz-250Hz
Bass Boost : 0~12dB
Bass Remote Control Included
Supply Voltage : 11~15V DC

Subwoofers:
Model: Visonik 108VPN

System Includes:

Two Front Ported Enclosures with Blue Neon Tubing

Two 10" Inch Visonik Subwoofers

Two 2" Inch Piezo Tweeters



Power Handling:

600 Watts Power Handling Per Pair
300 Watts RMS Power Handling Per Pair
300 Watts Power Handling Each
150 Watts RMS Power Handling Each

Frequency Response:
Subwoofer: 20 Hz – 200 Hz
Tweeter: 400 Hz – 22 kHz
Impedance: 4 Ohm

I wanted to try posting to you guys before I actually tried any other forums because I trust you guys the most

Driver: Jayme
Car: Rinoa
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post #2 of 12 Old 04-29-2010, 11:32 AM
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So, you are running 2 subs and a set of tweeters off of 1 amp? If the tweeters are working.. the amp is working. Not sure if this is the set up I would reccomened. Why do you have tweeters on your sub box? What is the purpose of this? Are you sure the subs are hooked up.
The built in amp should not affect this.
post more info and maybe I coudl help some more.
Good Luck!
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post #3 of 12 Old 04-29-2010, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunk007 View Post
Why do you have tweeters on your sub box?
My first thought. If it actually came with it, it would be the most worthless tweeters in the world.

Nonetheless, if it actually came with tweeters it should have come with a crossover to filter out the highs and lows to the speaker/tweeter respectively.

Jon
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post #4 of 12 Old 04-29-2010, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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No clue as to why they actually came with tweeters but I got both of them for $50 so I wasnt complaining. Like I said, it was just something to tie me over until I got something actually worthwhile.

A big update however:

After work I used a friends 12'' subwoofer on my amp and it worked fine, so the problem has got to be my subs themselves. My friend seems to think that my amp blew my subs but I, personally have never heard of that happening on car subs but I assume it is a possibility seeing as it happens with guitar amps? Im gonna take the subs out the enclosures and make sure the leads are connected properly. If not I dont know what Im going to do, I could try returning them, and if I got a new set, wouldnt it just blow the new ones?

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post #5 of 12 Old 04-30-2010, 11:04 AM
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If your subs are blown… they would still move, just sound like crap. It is possible to blow a sub but you need a LOT of power or crappy subs. They are probably hooked up incorrectly or not at all. There could be a problem between where the amp wire hooks up to the sub terminals and the tiny wire that goes from the sub to the connection terminal. There is really no reason to have the tweeters hook up unless you plan on opening your trunk and listening to music. Still with only tweeters and subs you will be missing all the mid range sound (most of the sound). I would get rid of the tweeters and try hooking up only the subs. Is there some sort of relay or crossover that you are hooking the amp up too? Again, if they are not moving, you did not blow them.
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-30-2010, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunk007 View Post
If your subs are blown… they would still move, just sound like crap. It is possible to blow a sub but you need a LOT of power or crappy subs. They are probably hooked up incorrectly or not at all. There could be a problem between where the amp wire hooks up to the sub terminals and the tiny wire that goes from the sub to the connection terminal. There is really no reason to have the tweeters hook up unless you plan on opening your trunk and listening to music. Still with only tweeters and subs you will be missing all the mid range sound (most of the sound). I would get rid of the tweeters and try hooking up only the subs. Is there some sort of relay or crossover that you are hooking the amp up too? Again, if they are not moving, you did not blow them.
Thanks alot, thats really great info, well I took the box apart and the wires are leading correctly to the port on the box, but it seems they soldered the wire to the actual sub, which made me a little iffy on the connection itself. So I took the sub and my amp wires and put it directly on the side of the sub, under the plugs that were soldered on and once again, only sound came out the tweeters. I googled/you tubed blown subs and learned that if the sub doesnt depress it was defective, which in fact when attempting to do it, it wouldnt move at all, as if the sub was just for show lol... So I ordered a replacement set of subs and now Im trying to get my money back.... wish me luck heh

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post #7 of 12 Old 05-01-2010, 11:02 PM
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Glad we could help. Good Luck!
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post #8 of 12 Old 05-03-2010, 09:44 AM
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There's actually a lot of ways to blow a sub. Overpowering them, underpowering them, incorrectly messing with the gain/settings on the amp, bad amp, bad/incorrect connections, excessively playing the sub at max with the trunk open (most are surprised by this one, but more of a risk), and the list goes on.

Jon
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post #9 of 12 Old 05-05-2010, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Well I got my new subs today, wired them up and while connecting them I noticed what possibly could of been my issue from the start? The red protection light on my amp is lit, and it stays lit. So now my question to you guys are what exactly have you known to trigger the protection light on the amp, and to keep it lit. Ive googled it and tried trouble shooting it but to no success. Ive tried regrounding it, removing all the wires and plugging it back in, changing the fuses (none of them blown) and still the light stays lit as soon as the amp gets power. Does that mean the amp internals are blown? or just that the system isnt wired properly? Im about ready to give up and take it to a shop... which was somethign i wanted to avoid. :-/

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post #10 of 12 Old 05-05-2010, 04:23 PM
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The amp should be large enough to power your speakers. Does it still power the tweeters? Dont take this the wrong way but a Rockstar amp is a cheap amp... correct. When you purchase inexpensive items, sometimes they dont work like they should. They are built with lower quality parts which dont usually work as well. My guess is internal problem. But if it still powers the tweeters... and your friends sub... it is your subs. Good luck.
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post #11 of 12 Old 05-05-2010, 04:59 PM
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There's actually a lot of ways to blow a sub.
Torpedo!!!!!!!

Ryan
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post #12 of 12 Old 05-06-2010, 08:23 AM
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One more thing, if there is a crossover it many have a High Pass Frequency switch. If this switch is on, only high frequencies (tweeter) sounds will pass through the amp. You could check that. You would want to turn that off or to LPF (Low Pass Frequency) to get your subs going. Just one more idea I thought of. Still would not explain why your friends subs worked.
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