Pretty sure I'm a disgrace to the car community - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 05-07-2010, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vew View Post
I suppose that would depend on one's definition of a ricer. Would it not?
Yea I guess. That was just supposed to be a joke My humor/sarcasm doesn't come across well on the internet.

Ryan
2009 STi - Cobb Stage 2
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#17 Old 05-08-2010, 07:15 AM
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What kind of paint did you use on your wheels?

so stock its not even funny...just kinda sad :(
-Randy
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#18 Old 05-08-2010, 08:56 AM
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Vew, if I remember, you originally painted your wheels a dark gunmetal color, then blue, and now green? Did you remove the old paint before applying the new paint, or did you just rough the existing paint up a bit and paint over it? Did you prime for every fresh coat of paint too or just do paint and clear? Just curious because I bought supplies to paint mine black and I'm pretty sure I'll end up painting mine several times over the years...

John
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#19 Old 05-08-2010, 09:11 AM
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yea...i've been wanting to paint my wheels too...just not sure what kind of primer, paint, and clear coat to use.

so stock its not even funny...just kinda sad :(
-Randy
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#20 Old 05-08-2010, 10:39 AM
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Most of the work is in the prep... I have enough supplies to do it in this order: clean stock wheels really well with wheel cleaner/simple green/dish detergent (whatever is necessary to get them extremely clean), scuff them up with a red scuff pad and sand with 600 grit and maybe 1,000 grit lightly, clean with compressed air then rubbing alcohol, wipe with a tack cloth, tape off tires with painter's tape, 1-2 light coats of adhesion promoter, 1-2 light coats of self-etching primer, 2-4 light coats of Duplicolor black wheel paint, 1-2 coats of Duplicolor clear wheel paint and possibly sand inbetween color/clear coats with 1,000 grit if I see any runs or rough spots. I'm hoping that'll do my wheels some justice. I'm already prepared to repaint or touch up the wheels every year or every few years if necessary. I'm just curious to see how this will turn out since I plan to spend a few days and lots of time prepping and painting them properly (I hope). Total materials cost me about 50 bucks, so that's better than spending a few hundred on new wheels. Besides, it'll be a learning experience and hopefully stop me from thinking about new wheels for a while - unless I end up screwing it up, in which case, I'll be even more tempted to pick up a new set... but we'll see.

John
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Jorge Carrillo Tuned (365 whp/340 wtq)
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#21 Old 05-08-2010, 12:03 PM
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Yeah I'm just gonna get a new set of wheels once it comes time to get new tires... Everybody is getting them, but I like the way some of the rotas look, and they're not crazy expensive. I just need to figure out how much they weigh, I would like to keep the wheels under 20lbs.

-Chris
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#22 Old 05-08-2010, 12:21 PM
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Depending on what size Rotas you get they will be around 20lbs per rim. I ran 17x8 Rota Boost, they weight just at or over 20lbs. I switched to my Enkei RPF1 (15.5 lbs) and I honestly noticed a difference in braking and accelerating. But I cant dispute the look and the price of the Rotas being hard to pass up.

Joshua
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#23 Old 05-08-2010, 12:59 PM
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Thanks for all your help John. Real good directions, i think i might even be able to pull it off.



I tried to Rep you...but looks like i need to spread some around first.haha

so stock its not even funny...just kinda sad :(
-Randy
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#24 Old 05-08-2010, 03:19 PM
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New, even the enkei's are competitively priced, I've just never like the look of the rfp-1's... Never been a fan of the spoked wheels that have "pairs" of spokes like those do.. I prefer the evenly spaced versions like the rota tarmac 2's or dpt's. At the same time, I'd want to get a wheel that weighs 16ish lbs. I guess the rpf1 type 2's meet my criteria, they just run 340ish per wheel. Decisions, decisions.

-Chris
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#25 Old 05-10-2010, 02:43 PM
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Don't use a grit finer than 800. I made the mistake of taking 3 days to sand mine down to 2000grit. It's difficult for paint to stick to this smooth of a surface and resist chipping. 800grit is the number a friend/pro painter gave me.

Yes, my wheels were graphite (duplicolor), then midnight black metallic (rustoleum), then cobalt blue metallic (rustoleum), and now florescent green (rustoleum). The 1st time I painted the graphite, I aircraft stripped, sanded, cleaned, painted, and cleared. After that, I got really lazy and just used a scowering pad rub off loose stuff, cleaned with denatured alcohol to prep. When I did the green, since it was a dark undercoating, I aircraft stripped, white primered, then put on the green, and then the clear.

There's a lot of ways to do it, I don't really have a recommendation over stripping the old paint and sanding vs light sanding, clean and paint over. Reason is because both have their advantages. Advantage by stripping is that you start fresh. PITA because it's hard to get every little bit off w/o being OCD about it, and little things turn out important during prep.

Advantave from painting over existing paint is that you know that it already has a good bond to the paint. If you rough sand it and clean over it, it's easier to get a decent finish with less work. But then you have the color underneath affecting the final color when it dries and etc.

There are a lot of tips and trips that I could probably make an entire how-to about, but so many exist out there now it seems redundant.

Jon
"We live for a good time, not a long time."
RIP Colin McRae
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#26 Old 05-10-2010, 02:48 PM
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When I painted mine I cleaned with water, sanded (300 grit), cleaned with water, 2 coats of Rustoleum self etching, 3 coats grimspeed gold, 3 coats rustoleum clear. Turned out great.
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#27 Old 05-10-2010, 03:09 PM
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I should mention that if you guys decide to use the florescent series of colors, you have another factor to worry about. It doesn't seem like paint, but instead florescent powder that's been impregnated in an whatever solution they use in the can.

Basically over spray doesn't exist, but instead there will be powder everywhere as a result. I had to spray a little closer than I normally would. So, you defiantly need a white primer under it. You also need to be aware that it chips/scratches very easily even with a lot of clear on it. I've only noticed this with the florescent paints as my two friends has similar issues with their yellow and orange attempts.

Jon
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RIP Colin McRae
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#28 Old 05-10-2010, 11:33 PM
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when it really comes down to it , it's still a subaru!!!!!

Big Jae -
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