Paint it yourself? - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #1 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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Paint it yourself?

hey
I have had a black abs grill on my car for a while, and i was looking at buying an sti scoop for it as well and painting them blue to match the car. have alot of you guys painted stuff this big and had success/ color matched well? i would probably end up doing my side skirts as well if you guys think it wouldn't be too huge of a job. like i have air spray guns and everything but i've never done automotive paint before.
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post #2 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 02:34 AM
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Well, painting is not easy and usually takes a lot of trial and error to become a skilled painter. It's worth a try though if you feel confident enough because you have to start somewhere. A huge thing is the prep. Make sure you have everything sanded smooth and prepped for the paint. There are many other variables that will depict your final results(spray gun pressure, ambient temperature, angle of paint flow, even the quality of the gun, etc). Do some searching on google and absorb as much knowledge as you can. It's not rocket science but there are some basic things you should know before doing it. I've painted a 2 trunks and an sti wing with base/clear, my wheels and the hood/roof/hatch on my other car with single stage and i'm still learning. You gotta start somewhere. Good luck!
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post #3 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 03:00 AM
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the way our WRBlue color is painted, it is difficult for even the pros to match perfectly in my opinion. (Someone correct me if I am wrong) I believe it's two shades of blue; a darker undercoat and a lighter coat laid on top of that...and then clear.

Matt
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post #4 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 11:26 AM
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From what I've heard, pearls can be very tricky to match too.

John
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post #5 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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yeah i guess. but if i waste 40 bucks on paint it isn't the world, and i'm sure places here will charge me a pretty penny just for the few pieces i want to get done. sleepr how did you take your spoiler off did you fill the holes in after and repaint or get a new trunk?
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post #6 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 03:38 PM
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Your best bet is to find someone that has a wingless/spoilerless trunk and swap (but also swap the key/latch for it also).

Joshua
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post #7 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 05:57 PM
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I got on a free trunk off someone from another forum and filled the holes on it. Used some fiberglass tape and automotive epoxy on the underside to prevent the bondo on the top from sagging over time. Then sanded and painted.
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post #8 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boober909 View Post
yeah i guess. but if i waste 40 bucks on paint it isn't the world, and i'm sure places here will charge me a pretty penny just for the few pieces i want to get done. sleepr how did you take your spoiler off did you fill the holes in after and repaint or get a new trunk?
I was lucky enough to find a car that was "unspoiled" (with painted sideskirts) to begin with.


For those who want to go to a pro, my suggestion would be to take it to the shop that the Subaru dealer uses (to fix paint issues on newly delivered cars).

Boober, you've got more confidence than me when it comes to this (and I used to paint professionally - houses, not metal parts really). I wish to the best, and look forward to seeing your results!

Matt
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post #9 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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haha i'm 21 i have plenty of time to learn. plus someone already hit and ran me in a parking lot so both passenger doors have scrapes on them below the horizontal indent line. and i have lots of rock chips so maybe i'll just paint the whole car? hahaha. that would be way too much work, but at least i wouldn't have to worry about color matching lol.
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post #10 of 37 Old 10-25-2009, 11:26 PM
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I say you go for it. I painted my side skirts with rattle cans and cant complain with the results. Heres a pic:
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post #11 of 37 Old 10-26-2009, 01:50 AM
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I agree with JDOWRX and MIDNITEBLACK on this one. Painting isn't as scary as everyone thinks, but make sure you get a few things first. I've done paint a lot of ways, I've painted 2 whole cars in college, using the bake booth, and full professional spray guns that were way better than any I've personally looked at purchasing, manually with brushes, and of course, with rattle cans. Honestly, it comes down to prep, like midniteblack said, and consistency with your passes. I've painted trim, rear-view mirrors, and other little things with spray paint, and it still has more to do with prep and consistency than method of application. Get some 1000+ grit sand paper or scuff pads (they're like the same material your furnace air filter is made of), some tack cloth, and make sure you can provide a clean, warm, and ventilated area in which you can paint. I recommend using wet/dry sand paper and a sanding block along with a hose running at a slow trickle for the best results. It's important to use a sanding block, because even the gap between your fingers will create a difference in pressure and leave lines in the end result. Sand in 2 directions, crossing the body line (like on the side skirt you'd go in an X pattern across the body line, and not front to back or up and down). The water will take away any extra debris, and make the sandpaper smoothly flow over the paint or plastic. Dry it and use the tack cloth to take off any extra particles you may not see. With body parts, I always recommend getting a 2 stage type paint (i.e. base and clear coat). Do several light coats of the base (color) coat. This is the coat that will really "stick" to the body (or really the prep work you did). This doesn't have to be thick or great looking, but you still want an even coat so that it all turns out uniform. The light coats won't drip or peel like thick coats will. I do about 5 coats of color, then attack it with 2 or more coats of clear. The clear coat is the most difficult coat, IMO. Make sure you use the tack cloth in between the base coat and the clear coat so there's no paint dust you may have missed. How the clear coat gets put on is how it will look. If you do it really thin, then it will look really rough, and if you do it too thick, the clear will run and leave a big "drip" on the paint job. It's really about getting as thick of a clear coat as you can without it dripping. You'll also want to make sure that the clear coat is mixed (if you're mixing it and spraying it with a gun) with enough activator to harden while it still looks fluid, but not too much that it hardens before it really lays flat. That's a tough part, and I usually put a little more activator, and I mean little, than recommended and spray it exactly until it looks how I want it to turn out. Realize that how that clear lies is really what you'll see in the quality of finish. If you're spraying with spray paint, just don't put it on quite as thick, as it tends to be a little more runny than professional clear. In the prep work, please make sure to focus sanding/scuffing especially at seams, edges, corners, and creases. That's where it's most important for the paint to stick because that's where the paint will start peeling first. Patience is the biggest part, I think. If you have any questions about it, just PM me. Paint is easy, ### if you mess it up, sand it down and try again. If you still can't get it, a real shop can fix anything you can't and you haven't really lost much to get to that point anyway. Hope that's coherent enough. One last thing- make sure you can control the temperature up to at least 70 before you paint. If you don't, the paint will take forever to dry.
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post #12 of 37 Old 10-26-2009, 07:43 AM
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lots of good advise^. Some more words of wisdom... Even if you lay some horrible coats down and have some major orange peal, it can all be fixed by color sanding and buffing in the final process.(I know from experience)
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post #13 of 37 Old 10-26-2009, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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haha thanks alot guys. do you have any sites online you can buy the paint from? i saw one on here a while ago i can't remember where i saw it though.
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post #14 of 37 Old 10-30-2009, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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does anyone have a site they reccomend to buy paint off of online? and what type of paint is best for abs plastic and for fibreglass?
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post #15 of 37 Old 10-31-2009, 05:49 AM
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Check to see if you have any automotive paint stores in your area. I've always got mine from a local store and they'll mix the paint up for you. You have the choice though of choosing which type of paint you wish to buy from looking at different paint chips and actually putting them up next to your car in the sunlight to see which color matches the best. Some of the mixes can be more expensive than others but they also may match closer to the exact color of your car depending on the mix of the pearl/metallic etc. Go with a two stage(base & clear).
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