I agree with JDOWRX and MIDNITEBLACK on this one. Painting isn't as scary as everyone thinks, but make sure you get a few things first. I've done paint a lot of ways, I've painted 2 whole cars in college, using the bake booth, and full professional spray guns that were way better than any I've personally looked at purchasing, manually with brushes, and of course, with rattle cans. Honestly, it comes down to prep, like midniteblack said, and consistency with your passes. I've painted trim, rear-view mirrors, and other little things with spray paint, and it still has more to do with prep and consistency than method of application. Get some 1000+ grit sand paper or scuff pads (they're like the same material your furnace air filter is made of), some tack cloth, and make sure you can provide a clean, warm, and ventilated area in which you can paint. I recommend using wet/dry sand paper and a sanding block along with a hose running at a slow trickle for the best results. It's important to use a sanding block, because even the gap between your fingers will create a difference in pressure and leave lines in the end result. Sand in 2 directions, crossing the body line (like on the side skirt you'd go in an X pattern across the body line, and not front to back or up and down). The water will take away any extra debris, and make the sandpaper smoothly flow over the paint or plastic. Dry it and use the tack cloth to take off any extra particles you may not see. With body parts, I always recommend getting a 2 stage type paint (i.e. base and clear coat). Do several light coats of the base (color) coat. This is the coat that will really "stick" to the body (or really the prep work you did). This doesn't have to be thick or great looking, but you still want an even coat so that it all turns out uniform. The light coats won't drip or peel like thick coats will. I do about 5 coats of color, then attack it with 2 or more coats of clear. The clear coat is the most difficult coat, IMO. Make sure you use the tack cloth in between the base coat and the clear coat so there's no paint dust you may have missed. How the clear coat gets put on is how it will look. If you do it really thin, then it will look really rough, and if you do it too thick, the clear will run and leave a big "drip" on the paint job. It's really about getting as thick of a clear coat as you can without it dripping. You'll also want to make sure that the clear coat is mixed (if you're mixing it and spraying it with a gun) with enough activator to harden while it still looks fluid, but not too much that it hardens before it really lays flat. That's a tough part, and I usually put a little more activator, and I mean little, than recommended and spray it exactly until it looks how I want it to turn out. Realize that how that clear lies is really what you'll see in the quality of finish. If you're spraying with spray paint, just don't put it on quite as thick, as it tends to be a little more runny than professional clear. In the prep work, please make sure to focus sanding/scuffing especially at seams, edges, corners, and creases. That's where it's most important for the paint to stick because that's where the paint will start peeling first. Patience is the biggest part, I think. If you have any questions about it, just PM me. Paint is easy, ### if you mess it up, sand it down and try again. If you still can't get it, a real shop can fix anything you can't and you haven't really lost much to get to that point anyway. Hope that's coherent enough. One last thing- make sure you can control the temperature up to at least 70 before you paint. If you don't, the paint will take forever to dry.