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New HID help

3K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  alexnlisa@ce 
#1 ·
Has anyone seen or bought from either of these sights?

Hid Kit, Hid Conversion Kit, Lights, Hid Headlights, Light - XenonEyes.com

WoodView Automotive Accessories | WoodView.com

Any opinions would be appreciated, even if you haven't seen these, do they look legit?? or recommend a different site you guys have ordered from.

I have HID's from sharphid.com and im sorry but they suck, and even my subaru dealer master tech says they arent a very good brand, my right one doesnt turn on for DTRL ever, and wont always turn on when i turn the head lights on themselves, and there is nothing wrong with them either.


HELP!!!! lol
 
#4 ·
I don't really know. But the s2k retrofit is the one you want to do if you do a upgrade. How much do you want to spend? Just save up some money and get the s2k retrofit. That's what I learned about modding... Sometimes I can be impatient but if you wait, you will get the money eventually.
 
#6 ·
i want to convert all the green lights in the car into that redish orange
im so sick of green, but i dont know how comfortable i feel about shipping parts off to some place :[

i hate not knowing how to do stuff like that
 
#8 ·
Do you have the battery harness for your SharpHID kit? I had the same problem with my daytime running lights - one of mine never seemed to come on - but then I got the battery harness and that solved my problem. I have the Apexcone 35W 5000K kit and I like it. Which one do you have and why don't you like it? I'm just curious because I think this is the first time I've heard someone really bashing SharpHID.
 
#9 ·
same just 4300k and no I don't have the harness. Most of the time when only one works and I try turning it on and off they both turn off and won't turn back on unless I pull the ebrake LOL I dunno what's up but my dealer says they a bad company so I'm just gonna get new ones and try them out
 
#12 ·
I trust the dealership, they know what they talking about, the one who inspected my car has his own performance shop and a 600+ hp sti. And why should I spend extra money to make them work? They should work fine without help. But, I'll give it a try. And one more question, how do I raise my headlight beam?
 
#11 ·
Man, I'm telling you, buy the battery harness and install it. I had the exact same problem you have and that solved it. It's not very expensive - $35 if you don't purchase it with a kit. It's extremely easy to install - you don't even need the directions, just look at the connections and you'll see how it works. You can even tuck it away nicely and zip tie it along your radiator support so you can barely see it. I think this is a much better option than buying a whole new HID kit.

And if the dealership is telling you they're a bad company, think again. Free shipping, lifetime warranty, easy installation, not terribly expensive... what's not to like?
 
#13 ·
Sorry, if I came off like a d!ck. It was early in the morning. They should work fine on their own. But, the DRLs sometimes doesn't supply enough juice to power the ballasts. For whatever reason my wrx didn't need the battery harness. My hids always came on everytime i looked at them. I diffently knew they were on when i turned the DRLs off and the headlights on like normal. I had the SharpHid apexicone 6ks and they were bright. Probably brighter than my stock STI hids. Just my STI hids are a much cleaner beam pattern. Um, that one screw on the top...should be a adjustment screen to lower/raise the beam. I haven't looked at it lately to remember a more descriptive location or explanation for it. But, its there. I wouldn't raise it too much though...people use to high beam me all the time with my 6ks. Thinking i was using my high beams. Heh, it really use to tempt me to make the high beams hids....so, i could blind them back in return. lol ROFL
 
#14 ·
I agree, the HID kit should work perfectly right out of the box, but sometimes it requires a battery harness because the power supply to the lights is slightly restricted from the factory. I think I read somewhere that the reason is because some numbskull driver somewhere couldn't figure out the difference between daytime running lights and regular low beams and, as a result, there was an accident at night and a lawsuit and now car manufacturers have to slightly dim daytime running lights. They cut the power to them just enough so that when it starts getting dark, people should reailze they need to turn on their low beams so they can see.

To raise your headlight cutoff beam, there should be a small (10 mm?) bolt (I think they're plastic and clear/white?) behind each light. I remember it was sort of tight getting to them, but I was lucky enough to have access to a flat ratcheting wrench. Otherwise, I'd have to put a regular wrench on, twist a tiny bit, take it off, and repeat a whole bunch of times. Like turmic said though, be careful not to raise them up too high because I've gotten flashed a couple times now too. I don't think it's necessarily because they're too high - I have them just high enough so I illuminate the ground in front of me if the road is flat (before I adjusted them, it looked to me like the lights cut off 30-40 feet in front of the car and everything in front of that was dark). I think I get flashed occasionally because of the intense glare that's created by my headlight housings since they weren't intended for HIDs from the factory, but I can see great so that's all I really care about.
 
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