Audio Set Up: 07 WRX - Subaru WRX Forum
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#1 Old 12-20-2011, 08:56 PM
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Audio Set Up: 07 WRX

I pretty much have a good idea on the equipment I want, just wanted to install it properly to reap the benefits.

Head Unit: Eclipse CD7000
Components: Boston Acoustics Pro60 (fronts only) w/ speaker spacers (Either the IA Performance spacer kit -or- Audio Integrations has one as well)
Sub: JL 10W6v2 w/ Audio Integrations Stealth Box
Amps: JL 500/1 Class D Monoblock Amp/ 2nd Amp for components (still shopping)
Matting: RAAMmat BXT II

1st off, I suck with fractions/measurements. I have my eye on the Audio Integrations spacer kit that offers .75. I am also thinking that since I am going to have 2-amps, I should use a power distribution block. Thoughts? Ideas?

- Sandra
2007 WRX TR | Stage 2 | PAR Gearset (Built by AndrewTech)
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#2 Old 12-20-2011, 09:00 PM
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Sounds dang near what my old car had in it and Bryn Mawr/Tweeter which went belly up installed it. It sounded great in my old car. It'll make me jealous if I sat in your car. LOL

Kirt
378awhp/373wtq Custom Dom 3 & CBRD tuned 2006 STI.
"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae

Last edited by turmic; 12-21-2011 at 08:31 PM.
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#3 Old 12-20-2011, 09:06 PM
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Haha! This is a 2012 project for sure. Just making sure I get everything so I can do this in one shot. Don't feel like ripping up the interior multiple times because I forgot something.

- Sandra
2007 WRX TR | Stage 2 | PAR Gearset (Built by AndrewTech)
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#4 Old 12-21-2011, 09:04 AM
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If you have the room for it, run two wires. My buddy that's in the industry does this because of any place where dissimilar metals have to conduct, it can lead to oxidation and loss of current due to resistance.

Personally, I do agree, but I tend not to think that it's such a big deal. I would run two wires since keeps everything simpler overall. When you're troubleshooting and just having less connection points makes it easier, and in general reduces the chance failure. To most, it's probably less "clean" of an install running two wires, but in terms of electricity, it's a simpler.

If you run a distribution block, it's no big deal. In reality, you'll probably sell the car in less than a decade before any significant corrosion starts to occur. As long as your wire size is correct and your connection points are tight, you should be fine. Where I work, our units are designed to last 30+ years, so this is important to us.

Just as a quick explanation of what I'm talking about here is you're probably running bare copper wire into a nickle plated distribution block. Because they are two different metals conducting electricity, you run the risk of galvanic corrosion. The anodic index between the two differs by 0.05 (copper: -0.35 vs nickel: -0.30). This is actually pretty good. You want those numbers as close as possible. When they're close, there's less ion transfer between the anode and cathode (which will eventually lead to corrosion). It starts to matter more when you have more current, which is why no one really talks about it for something simple like decks and speakers.

Edit: the idea is, why add extra possible points of failure when you don't have to

Jon
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RIP Colin McRae

Last edited by Vew; 12-21-2011 at 09:12 AM. Reason: last thought
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#5 Old 12-21-2011, 01:58 PM
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Looks good to me.
FYI - I ran a 2 gauge power wire to the trunk, ran that into a splitter that took the 2 guage down to a 8 guage (i think) and ran that into my amps.
As for speaker spacers, I used some rubber washer I got at a hardware store (total cost $2.25).
Also remember to run the power wire and the RCA wires on differnet sides of the car or you might pick up an alternator whine.
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#6 Old 12-21-2011, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gunk007 View Post
Also remember to run the power wire and the RCA wires on differnet sides of the car or you might pick up an alternator whine.
On top of that, ground in separate locations to minimize ground loops. I still have a faint alternator whine, and I ran my power and RCA separately and if they did cross, at a 90degree. Just too lazy go in and deal with it.

Jon
"We live for a good time, not a long time."
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#7 Old 12-21-2011, 04:06 PM
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Great suggestions, fellas! Few questions -

Grounds - Would it be safe use another distribution block for the grounds?

Wiring - Considering my front component set, I should *not* use the stock wiring harness, I should run new wires?

Gauge Wiring - What size would you consider? 2ga from the battery to the distro. block? Then 8g to the amps as suggested by gunk007?

Speaker Spacers - Will .75 be enough? Only reason I am hard pressed for the Audio Integrations speaker spacers is because they mention I won't have to extend the door card clips.

- Sandra
2007 WRX TR | Stage 2 | PAR Gearset (Built by AndrewTech)
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#8 Old 12-21-2011, 08:35 PM
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I'm glad someone in the area remembers Bryn Mawr/Tweeter...Man, I use to love that place. Some of the cars that would get work done would enter competitions and it was insane what you can do with expensive stereo/system.

I had a JL 500 x 1 amp drive my 2 JL 12 W3s or whatever they were and had a crappy amp that drove my upgraded front Boston Acustics Component sets and stock 6x9 rears. The front speakers were way better than the back....but, I didn't care because I never sat in the back and my 12s were loud enough to not make it a noticeable issue. I loved my Eclipse head unit...the display was one the coolest parts of my car. You could make it show EQ and all sorts of stuff. /dork fest rant !Laugh!

Kirt
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#9 Old 12-22-2011, 08:04 AM
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Yes! Older Eclipse stuff is FTW. I specifically went with this head unit due to all the options. Like the pre-outs and built in EQ/X-over. Which brings me to another question, should I install/use the x-overs that came with the BA Pro60's? Or, stick to what's built into the HU?

- Sandra
2007 WRX TR | Stage 2 | PAR Gearset (Built by AndrewTech)
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#10 Old 12-22-2011, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostinChick View Post
Yes! Older Eclipse stuff is FTW. I specifically went with this head unit due to all the options. Like the pre-outs and built in EQ/X-over. Which brings me to another question, should I install/use the x-overs that came with the BA Pro60's? Or, stick to what's built into the HU?
My 2cents, as someone who uses only Boston speakers, just use their x-overs.

I use Pro and Z-Series speakers only in my vehicles. I should get Boston to sponsor me as I use so much of their stuff. Including amps.
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#11 Old 12-22-2011, 08:11 PM
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I'd use Boston's x-overs because they should have half a clue as to what makes their speakers work the best. Haha and that was the way I had mine ran. Which they sounded great.

Kirt
378awhp/373wtq Custom Dom 3 & CBRD tuned 2006 STI.
"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae
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#12 Old 12-23-2011, 08:02 AM
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Glad I asked! I will use the BA X-over's then. Was just trying to avoid running new wires through the door boots. Heh

- Sandra
2007 WRX TR | Stage 2 | PAR Gearset (Built by AndrewTech)
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#13 Old 12-27-2011, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostinChick View Post
Great suggestions, fellas! Few questions -

Grounds - Would it be safe use another distribution block for the grounds?

Wiring - Considering my front component set, I should *not* use the stock wiring harness, I should run new wires?

Gauge Wiring - What size would you consider? 2ga from the battery to the distro. block? Then 8g to the amps as suggested by gunk007?

Speaker Spacers - Will .75 be enough? Only reason I am hard pressed for the Audio Integrations speaker spacers is because they mention I won't have to extend the door card clips.
If you can run new wires, I recommend it. It's a cheap thing to do if you're doing it yourself. Just a PITA since it's labor intensive.

Wire sizing, it really depends on how much current you're running and how far. This matters more than anything.

Grounds: keep them short and ground directly to the chassis. Scrape up the paint so bare metal shows. You can use a self tapping screw, but make sure it has good contact with the wire lug and use a star washer. Where I worked, we use a paint removal bit on a power drill and it makes a quick and clean job. If you're mounting in the trunk, you can ground directly to a seat belt anchor. Just use a unibit to make the hole on the lug bigger. Don't forget to scrape up the paint. Don't use a drill bit. This is how you hurt your finger and end up injured.

Jon
"We live for a good time, not a long time."
RIP Colin McRae

Last edited by Vew; 12-27-2011 at 10:34 AM. Reason: overreacting with the speaker wires.. removed
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#14 Old 12-28-2011, 07:56 AM
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The BA Pro60's have a RMS of 125 watts. I would be running a second amp specifically for these and will probably mount it under the passenger seat. Sorry if I seem very newbish to this. Just want to get the correct stuff for install so I don't end up blowing my components/sub up with not having the correct gauge or wires to support the current.

- Sandra
2007 WRX TR | Stage 2 | PAR Gearset (Built by AndrewTech)
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#15 Old 12-28-2011, 08:54 AM
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Why not relocate the battery when you are in there. It'll make wiring a helluva lot easier in the longrun. Plus clean up the bay and help with weight distribution.

Paul
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