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Audio Set Up: 07 WRX

3K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  BoostinChick 
#1 ·
I pretty much have a good idea on the equipment I want, just wanted to install it properly to reap the benefits.

Head Unit: Eclipse CD7000
Components: Boston Acoustics Pro60 (fronts only) w/ speaker spacers (Either the IA Performance spacer kit -or- Audio Integrations has one as well)
Sub: JL 10W6v2 w/ Audio Integrations Stealth Box
Amps: JL 500/1 Class D Monoblock Amp/ 2nd Amp for components (still shopping)
Matting: RAAMmat BXT II

1st off, I suck with fractions/measurements. I have my eye on the Audio Integrations spacer kit that offers .75. I am also thinking that since I am going to have 2-amps, I should use a power distribution block. Thoughts? Ideas?
 
#4 · (Edited)
If you have the room for it, run two wires. My buddy that's in the industry does this because of any place where dissimilar metals have to conduct, it can lead to oxidation and loss of current due to resistance.

Personally, I do agree, but I tend not to think that it's such a big deal. I would run two wires since keeps everything simpler overall. When you're troubleshooting and just having less connection points makes it easier, and in general reduces the chance failure. To most, it's probably less "clean" of an install running two wires, but in terms of electricity, it's a simpler.

If you run a distribution block, it's no big deal. In reality, you'll probably sell the car in less than a decade before any significant corrosion starts to occur. As long as your wire size is correct and your connection points are tight, you should be fine. Where I work, our units are designed to last 30+ years, so this is important to us.

Just as a quick explanation of what I'm talking about here is you're probably running bare copper wire into a nickle plated distribution block. Because they are two different metals conducting electricity, you run the risk of galvanic corrosion. The anodic index between the two differs by 0.05 (copper: -0.35 vs nickel: -0.30). This is actually pretty good. You want those numbers as close as possible. When they're close, there's less ion transfer between the anode and cathode (which will eventually lead to corrosion). It starts to matter more when you have more current, which is why no one really talks about it for something simple like decks and speakers.

Edit: the idea is, why add extra possible points of failure when you don't have to
 
#5 ·
Looks good to me.
FYI - I ran a 2 gauge power wire to the trunk, ran that into a splitter that took the 2 guage down to a 8 guage (i think) and ran that into my amps.
As for speaker spacers, I used some rubber washer I got at a hardware store (total cost $2.25).
Also remember to run the power wire and the RCA wires on differnet sides of the car or you might pick up an alternator whine.
 
#6 ·
Also remember to run the power wire and the RCA wires on differnet sides of the car or you might pick up an alternator whine.
On top of that, ground in separate locations to minimize ground loops. I still have a faint alternator whine, and I ran my power and RCA separately and if they did cross, at a 90degree. Just too lazy go in and deal with it.
 
#7 ·
Great suggestions, fellas! Few questions -

Grounds - Would it be safe use another distribution block for the grounds?

Wiring - Considering my front component set, I should *not* use the stock wiring harness, I should run new wires?

Gauge Wiring - What size would you consider? 2ga from the battery to the distro. block? Then 8g to the amps as suggested by gunk007?

Speaker Spacers - Will .75 be enough? Only reason I am hard pressed for the Audio Integrations speaker spacers is because they mention I won't have to extend the door card clips.
 
#13 · (Edited)
If you can run new wires, I recommend it. It's a cheap thing to do if you're doing it yourself. Just a PITA since it's labor intensive.

Wire sizing, it really depends on how much current you're running and how far. This matters more than anything.

Grounds: keep them short and ground directly to the chassis. Scrape up the paint so bare metal shows. You can use a self tapping screw, but make sure it has good contact with the wire lug and use a star washer. Where I worked, we use a paint removal bit on a power drill and it makes a quick and clean job. If you're mounting in the trunk, you can ground directly to a seat belt anchor. Just use a unibit to make the hole on the lug bigger. Don't forget to scrape up the paint. Don't use a drill bit. This is how you hurt your finger and end up injured.
 
#8 ·
I'm glad someone in the area remembers Bryn Mawr/Tweeter...Man, I use to love that place. Some of the cars that would get work done would enter competitions and it was insane what you can do with expensive stereo/system.

I had a JL 500 x 1 amp drive my 2 JL 12 W3s or whatever they were and had a crappy amp that drove my upgraded front Boston Acustics Component sets and stock 6x9 rears. The front speakers were way better than the back....but, I didn't care because I never sat in the back and my 12s were loud enough to not make it a noticeable issue. I loved my Eclipse head unit...the display was one the coolest parts of my car. You could make it show EQ and all sorts of stuff. /dork fest rant !Laugh!
 
#9 ·
Yes! Older Eclipse stuff is FTW. I specifically went with this head unit due to all the options. Like the pre-outs and built in EQ/X-over. Which brings me to another question, should I install/use the x-overs that came with the BA Pro60's? Or, stick to what's built into the HU?
 
#11 ·
I'd use Boston's x-overs because they should have half a clue as to what makes their speakers work the best. Haha and that was the way I had mine ran. Which they sounded great.
 
#14 ·
The BA Pro60's have a RMS of 125 watts. I would be running a second amp specifically for these and will probably mount it under the passenger seat. Sorry if I seem very newbish to this. Just want to get the correct stuff for install so I don't end up blowing my components/sub up with not having the correct gauge or wires to support the current.
 
#16 ·
I will look into it and see where others are mounting theirs. I don't want to hack up the car too much just in case I want to throw everything back to stock. Also, if I go to the track (tech inspection), I would have to figure out the whole kill switch deal.
 
#17 ·
Grounding/making new ground to the chassis I would not consider hacking up the car. Where I worked, everything we did, had to be of professional quality and also be able to revert the car back in case the owners decided to sell the car. Making grounds and removing them later was acceptable practice. The seat belt mount option would leave little trace other than some scuffed up paint under the seats. What I'm trying to say, if you take this out somewhere, they're going to do the same thing if not worse.

Yes, for tracking the car, you'd have to have an external battery kill switch outside of the vehicle if you moved the battery. Not worth it IMO if this is a daily driver that you don't track often or if you plan on reselling the car.
 
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