Weird Rough Idle - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #16 of 26 Old 08-13-2008, 11:44 PM
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I don't think the banjo bolt thing applys to your car. I've been told that only the 2.5L engines have this issue. At least with the AVCS, not sure about the oil line screen.
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post #17 of 26 Old 08-15-2008, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awdturb View Post
the fuel pump burned up the fuel pressure regulator....your prob running super rich. that could also be why you were/are backfiring
Would this throw a CEL? I would i go about checking this?
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post #18 of 26 Old 08-15-2008, 08:49 AM
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im not sure about the cell but the only way would be a fuel pressure gauge or trial and error there pretty cheap and easy to replace.

edit-or a afr gauge to see if your running rich

Last edited by awdturb; 08-15-2008 at 10:28 PM.
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post #19 of 26 Old 08-20-2008, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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I have an afr gauge , it is not hooked up. I dont have a wideband , can i hook up the afr without a wideband and is there a tutorial?
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post #20 of 26 Old 08-22-2008, 12:28 PM
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It wont do you a bit of good to use a narrow band A/F gauge. Unless you just want the lights.

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post #21 of 26 Old 08-28-2008, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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I think i found the problem. My positive battery terminal keeps going loose. I have been checking it every other day and its usually good. But it seems every time i tighten it the idle gets alot better for a little while then degrades again, Then i check it, what do ya know loose, Tighten. Idle gets better.
Anyways. I changed my oil and my rear dif fluid last night. Car Idle and runs much better.
I think im getting the piston slap.... im at 58k miles 2nd owner. I notice a noise what seems to be a knock *friggen scary* when i start her up in the morning. I let it idle and warm up. Noise seems to fluctuate i freak out ya know the usual. I drive to work which is about 37 miles away. When i get there i leave her running hop out pop the hood, stick my head underneath the front of the car, do the usually odd listening for noise manuevers and its not there anymore. Is this piston slap or more serious?
I think im going to start saving for a rebuild.

I love this site but i hate it, the more i read the more worried i get. I think im just going to take her in somewhere to get it datalogged hopefully it wont cost that much, Im very broke. I am really thinking about selling the car because im not sure i if i can afford it anymore. If anything would happen to it i would be carless and i need a car for transportation to get to work. I dunno im not feeling to go good about my vehicle atm. Im torn between something really wrong or nothing really wrong.

Last edited by scythenkai; 08-28-2008 at 11:38 AM.
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post #22 of 26 Old 08-28-2008, 12:48 PM
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Well, I was originally going to suggest a bad motormount for the shaking, but if it gets better when you tighten the battery connection, then I doubt it's that. Have you tried getting a new battery connection? Or new battery? I may be wrong but, if it gets better when you tighten the terminal, it could be a bad battery terminal or wire?

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post #23 of 26 Old 08-28-2008, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Its just because of the battery i have. Its one of those small race batteries. It has a screw on terminal. After driving a bit it gets loosened up from the road vibrations. I think i got it cranked down enough not to loosen up again.

An update about the piston slap. I left to go to lunch earlier and i started the car and it sounded perfect just the average tick. I guess it is probably just the piston slap crap happening cause its there sometimes and then its not there. Usually just in the mornings but not every morning. I think i may have someone with a tactrix cable that will do a data-log for me ill keep the updates here. My plan as of right now is to buy my own cable and install a wideband O2 sensor so i can monitor a little better. Im really good with computers and i dont think i would have a problem tuning my own car once i get familiar with the attributes. Only thing that scares me is that it is married to a stolen AP which i dont have proof of it being stolen because i never knew it was stolen til i moved, but im pretty sure there is a way to unmarry the rom in a computer sense. Theres always a way. Hell maybe ill make my own cable. Anyone got a pin out of the ODB 2 connector and tactrix cable?

Update on the piston slap: Started the car this morning didn't hear it at first then all of a sudden there it was. Now my question is how much does the piston slap sound like a bearing knock? Let it warm up and the sound deminished but didnt go away. Had to go to work so i hop in and drive it down the road maybe a block, i hoped out at the stop sound down the street and she purring like normal no sound. This seems to be a start up thing after i drive it even a short period it goes away. Get to work about 32 miles away and shes still purring normaly. Although i dont know if this is a real problem not it kind of worries me. So i am going to start saving for either a short block or a rebuild kit and a new turbo because i think the turbo is on its way out, seems to be a little more whistly then it used to. I was wondering what all has to be done to use the Ej25 short block with the ej20 heads in the wrx?

Last edited by scythenkai; 08-29-2008 at 08:20 AM.
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post #24 of 26 Old 08-30-2008, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awdturb View Post
the fuel pump burned up the fuel pressure regulator....your prob running super rich. that could also be why you were/are backfiring

Im starting to think this may be of significant value, im averaging 22-24mpg. When i pull up to stop lights i can smell the octane. Still seems to backfire on deceleration with engine breaking or taking foot off accelerator. Also back fires between shifts sometimes under hard acceleration. Im going to check exhaust for leaks and look into new fuel pressure regulator. Any advise on good one to get that wont get burned up again by the fuel pump?
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post #25 of 26 Old 08-31-2008, 02:47 AM
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I want to check into this as it may be one of the culprits keeping my car from running right. Where is it located and what is entailed in swapping it out?
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post #26 of 26 Old 09-01-2008, 12:20 PM
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i installed a aeromotive that i got at extremepsi.com...you could go to the dealer and just get a stocker and swap it in just to see if thats the prob...i paid like 150 for the areomotive but its adjustable...i think the stocker is like 70 bucks..i had a lot of the same probs your talking about and the fpr cleared it up..also check for exhaust leaks. just let her idle up on jack stands and put your hands near all the joints from the up pipe all the way back to the muffler you should feel any leaks.

edit..keep me posted on progress waiting to hear how you made out.

Last edited by awdturb; 09-06-2008 at 06:52 PM.
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