Power Steering leak at input shaft - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 02-05-2014, 07:35 PM
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Its in the FSM.
http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/...ps51c25537.png



This is how you test it:

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/...ps023b1452.png


I don't think this is too accurate, they don't tell you the distance from the hook on the scale to the pinion, so the leverage from the spanner could read different numbers depending on how far the scale is from the pinion. It probably won't be completely accurate, you should get close though. The spanner is a subaru specific tool, and is about $140, so I'd just guestimate with a normal wrench.

Not sure how to work the images here so I uploaded them and put a link
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#17 Old 02-05-2014, 11:03 PM
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OK - I think we are talking about two different problems. I did not re-build my pinion valve, I replaced it. It is a factory part so I am assuming that the resistance is to spec already.

The part that I am replacing is called the Clockspring (or Steering Roll Connector). It is the coil of wire that is in your steering wheel that allows all of your steering wheel controls to work even as you turn it

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd22ab6e9.gif
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#18 Old 02-05-2014, 11:46 PM
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I know what the clockspring is. I am replacing the pinion valve aswell, it bolts to the top of the rack, and connects the the universal joint on the column. But before you remove it, you are supposed to remove the adjustment screw that is on the rack itself below the pinion valve assembly, as per the FSM.

Now that I look at it again, maybe it isn't required, the instructions in the FSM for the valve removal are with the rack dissassembly instructions, so they may not be related, well obviously since you had no idea what I was talking about.
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#19 Old 02-06-2014, 11:40 AM
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OK - that does make more sense now.

FYI - do not miss the o-ring that is on the pinion valve. We almost missed transferring the o-ring from the old pinion valve to the new one. The FSM says to replace the o-ring, but it is a non-standard o-ring, and the original stilled looked great.
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#20 Old 02-06-2014, 11:53 AM
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When I ordered the valve I ordered a replacement O ring as well, it was like 60 cents. Think I'll be tackling this tomorrow. I bought the whiteline rack bushings and a cusco brace to go along with the repair. Couldn't help myself, I like to upgrade related things when I have to replace stuff.
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#21 Old 02-06-2014, 05:07 PM
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Centre the steering wheel before you start, and put a seatbelt through it to keep it in that same position while you're dissasembling it. Once the tie rods are assembled I believe the lock-to-lock stops protect the clock spring in the wheel.
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#22 Old 02-09-2014, 12:05 AM
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Started today, one of my outer tie rod boots were cracked so I'm replacing both of those aswell. Ran into an issue with the larger set of fittings that go into the side of the pinion valve. The bottom most one is on there like a MFer and I stripped part of the nut, I'm going to get some vice grips tomorrow and hit it with the torch. Worst case i have to spend the money and wait for a new hose to come, I have to work tuesday, so that's not much of an option, and I really want to avoid it, heres to hoping the vice grips can get it off. Once they break loose they are easy to get off, I hit it with some PB Blaster before I gave in for the night.

The rack is out though, tomorrow if I get the fitting situation solved I still have to install the new bushings, put the rack back up, replace the tie rods, replace rotors, install short shifter.

Fun fun.
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#23 Old 02-09-2014, 05:21 PM
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Ended up getting the new hose and its being overnighted here. Sucks, the shipping is 3x as much as the part, but it has to be done.
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#24 Old 02-09-2014, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fr3shm3at View Post
OK - that does make more sense now.

FYI - do not miss the o-ring that is on the pinion valve. We almost missed transferring the o-ring from the old pinion valve to the new one. The FSM says to replace the o-ring, but it is a non-standard o-ring, and the original stilled looked great.

I am having trouble getting the pinion to go back into the rack. It will slide down into the rack, but its off center and won't go completely down. Did you have any trouble with this?

I'm about to just buy a whole new rack >.<
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#25 Old 02-09-2014, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockton View Post
I am having trouble getting the pinion to go back into the rack. It will slide down into the rack, but its off center and won't go completely down. Did you have any trouble with this?

I'm about to just buy a whole new rack >.<
1) Plenty of fresh grease.
2) We struggled with this a little bit - I think the trick was to actually turn the pinion valve while we were trying to seat it. This seemed to help get the teeth to mesh properly. You can do it!
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#26 Old 02-09-2014, 11:00 PM
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FYI - we installed the new clockroll on Saturday and everything went pretty smoothly. All of my steering wheel controls are working again, and the Traction Control and Hill Assist lights are now vanquished
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#27 Old 02-11-2014, 03:35 AM
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No dice, it just won't go in. I am almost positive that loosening up the adjustment screw will make it easier. I contacted a couple people on nasioc who did this recently to get their feedback as well, hopefully they will get back to me by friday when I get my new pressure line.
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#28 Old 02-12-2014, 12:55 AM
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Ended up getting it in without loosening the adjustment screw. I had put it in as far as i could and use it to turn the rack almost all the way to clock, then I just kind of went left and right twisting it back and forth until it seated in there. Now all i'm waiting for is to get the new line from the dealer friday. I also took off the steering wheel and centered the clock spring. Hopefully once I get the rack on I can re-install the tie rods, then put the wheels on and center the wheels, then bolt the U-Joint back on while someone holds the steering wheel straight. Hopefully I can do this without messing up the steering wheel or clock spring. Then I'm getting an alignment and hopefully I'll be done with this headache.
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#29 Old 02-18-2014, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fr3shm3at View Post
Sounds like part of what I am experiencing may be coming from the clock spring in the steering wheel. Best case scenario is we un-wound it when we spun the steering wheel. Worst case is we snapped something and I would need to order a new clock spring (looks like about a $60 lesson).


It seems I have somehow managed to break my clockspring doing this aswell. Dealer want 250 for a new one. Where did you find one for 60?
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#30 Old 02-19-2014, 12:16 AM
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Sounds like this is turning into quite the headache for you. Hope you get it all sorted out asap.

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