Subaru WRX Forum banner

Power Steering leak at input shaft

58K views 34 replies 4 participants last post by  Brockton 
#1 ·
I drive a 2009 WRX (no mods) and noticed that I was leaking power steering fluid recently. A little troubleshooting and I discovered the source, the leak is originating from the input shaft coming into the rack and pinion gearbox.

The Subaru service manual that I found online states for this type of leak to 'Replace the valve assembly with a new part'. However when I inquired at the dealership they told me they don't sell that part, they only sell the entire rack and pinion for $750.

Looking at the gear box it is obvious that it is replaceable, but I cannot find a part number. I really do not want to replace my entire rack and pinion for what is most likely a worn bearing in the gearbox. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
 
#3 ·
We have a vendor on here that is usually somewhat active. Their name is subaruonlineparts.com. You may want to message them about it. They might be able to get you a better deal or free shipping. Here's a link to their profile on here. Best of luck. Car seems too new to have problems like that. If your stealership is anything like mine, they don't know their ass from a hole in the ground. Mine told me There is no fuel filter on my car :rolleyes:

http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/members/subaruonlineparts/
 
#4 · (Edited)
I had this same issue with my '09 STi, and Subaru wanted $1,400 for a new steering rack, although they'd give me $450 or so for the old rack. It was past the warranty.

I couldn't afford that repair path, so a mechanic friend of mine and and pulled the steering rack off the car and took it to a steering rack rebuilder. They rebuilt it for $300 and we put it back in the STi. It needs an alignment afterwards, but $400 is far less than $1,400.

It's an advanced repair to put it back in, because the steering needs to be centred, but taking it out is actually rather straightforward.
 
#7 ·
I visited their website, they carry the part - but their website is broken. When I add the item to the cart and try to checkout I get a message saying that there are no items in my cart. Hopefully I will hear back from someone soon or else I will have to use a different option so I can have the part here by this weekend.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Please give us an update on this repair, and perhaps even post some pictures when you get the chance.

My power steering leak repair wasn't covered by warranty at 120,000 km (steering rack pinion shaft leak), but according to my research it was a rare failure for a Subaru. However given your experience with it, I was not the only one with the issue.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
I replaced the valve over the weekend and the leak has been fixed. I have a couple of issues that I need to resolve still though.

Problem #1: When I re-attached the steering column to the pinion valve I did not get it perfectly aligned. The steering wheel is out of alignment by about 5-10 degrees to the right. This is causing the traction control and hill assist systems to be disabled (dummy lights are on). This should be a fairly easy fix.

Problem #2: None of my steering wheel controls are working, and the airbag light is on. Not sure what would have caused this since we did not remove the steering wheel. My friend did spin the steering wheel to the right a couple of times when it was disconnected, I am wondering if this caused some wires to get disconnected. I can hear a small scraping noise coming from the steering wheel now when I turn it to the right.
 
#13 ·
Sounds like part of what I am experiencing may be coming from the clock spring in the steering wheel. Best case scenario is we un-wound it when we spun the steering wheel. Worst case is we snapped something and I would need to order a new clock spring (looks like about a $60 lesson).
 
#15 ·
My clockspring arrives on Thursday so I will be installing over the weekend. It is my buddy that has all of the tools, so I will ask him tonight if his torque wrench goes down this low. Can you point me to where you found this specification?

As for the second question - my friend who was helping me grabbed and spun the universal joint while the rack and pinion was removed.
 
#16 ·
Its in the FSM.
http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd483/brocks003k/ps_zps51c25537.png



This is how you test it:

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd483/brocks003k/ps2_zps023b1452.png


I don't think this is too accurate, they don't tell you the distance from the hook on the scale to the pinion, so the leverage from the spanner could read different numbers depending on how far the scale is from the pinion. It probably won't be completely accurate, you should get close though. The spanner is a subaru specific tool, and is about $140, so I'd just guestimate with a normal wrench.

Not sure how to work the images here so I uploaded them and put a link
 

Attachments

#17 · (Edited)
OK - I think we are talking about two different problems. I did not re-build my pinion valve, I replaced it. It is a factory part so I am assuming that the resistance is to spec already.

The part that I am replacing is called the Clockspring (or Steering Roll Connector). It is the coil of wire that is in your steering wheel that allows all of your steering wheel controls to work even as you turn it ;)

 

Attachments

#18 ·
I know what the clockspring is. I am replacing the pinion valve aswell, it bolts to the top of the rack, and connects the the universal joint on the column. But before you remove it, you are supposed to remove the adjustment screw that is on the rack itself below the pinion valve assembly, as per the FSM.

Now that I look at it again, maybe it isn't required, the instructions in the FSM for the valve removal are with the rack dissassembly instructions, so they may not be related, well obviously since you had no idea what I was talking about.
 
#19 ·
OK - that does make more sense now.

FYI - do not miss the o-ring that is on the pinion valve. We almost missed transferring the o-ring from the old pinion valve to the new one. The FSM says to replace the o-ring, but it is a non-standard o-ring, and the original stilled looked great.
 
#20 ·
When I ordered the valve I ordered a replacement O ring as well, it was like 60 cents. Think I'll be tackling this tomorrow. I bought the whiteline rack bushings and a cusco brace to go along with the repair. Couldn't help myself, I like to upgrade related things when I have to replace stuff.
 
#22 ·
Started today, one of my outer tie rod boots were cracked so I'm replacing both of those aswell. Ran into an issue with the larger set of fittings that go into the side of the pinion valve. The bottom most one is on there like a MFer and I stripped part of the nut, I'm going to get some vice grips tomorrow and hit it with the torch. Worst case i have to spend the money and wait for a new hose to come, I have to work tuesday, so that's not much of an option, and I really want to avoid it, heres to hoping the vice grips can get it off. Once they break loose they are easy to get off, I hit it with some PB Blaster before I gave in for the night.

The rack is out though, tomorrow if I get the fitting situation solved I still have to install the new bushings, put the rack back up, replace the tie rods, replace rotors, install short shifter.

Fun fun.
 
#27 ·
No dice, it just won't go in. I am almost positive that loosening up the adjustment screw will make it easier. I contacted a couple people on nasioc who did this recently to get their feedback as well, hopefully they will get back to me by friday when I get my new pressure line.
 
#28 ·
Ended up getting it in without loosening the adjustment screw. I had put it in as far as i could and use it to turn the rack almost all the way to clock, then I just kind of went left and right twisting it back and forth until it seated in there. Now all i'm waiting for is to get the new line from the dealer friday. I also took off the steering wheel and centered the clock spring. Hopefully once I get the rack on I can re-install the tie rods, then put the wheels on and center the wheels, then bolt the U-Joint back on while someone holds the steering wheel straight. Hopefully I can do this without messing up the steering wheel or clock spring. Then I'm getting an alignment and hopefully I'll be done with this headache.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top