This pic shows the tube I'm talking about. I've got oil at the point where the rubber hose connects to the metal 90deg tube The rubber hose goes down to the inlet hose where there also is oil. I can only assume the oil is getting into the turbo and out the exhaust.
:crying: What happened and how do I fix it? (not a current pic)
which hose are you referring to? the two attached to the metal pipe? or the one snaking down to the turbo.
the two off the metal pipe are PVC related, one goes to the valve cover, the other goes to the turbo inlet. if this is where oil is coming from you probably have a faulty PVC. either replace that or delete it with an IAG air oil separator. (others might delete it aswell, but i know the IAG is a good unit)
if its the snaking line down to your turbo, thats a coolants line i believe. there should not be any oil near there.
might need a current pic to give you any real help. im just taking stabs in the dark.
It's the 2 pipes that go across the front of the intercooler. The one with the 90deg bend that goes down to the turbo inlet. The oil is at the connection of the rubber hose and the metal pipe and again at the inlet.
is it and it isnt. theres a PVC vacuum nipplle under the intercooler, but the PCV assembly Y-shaped plastic piece right on the block. the 2 pipes across the incerooler are your vent hoses. oil in those means too much blow-by.
Thanks, The pics of the oil separator really help me get the lay of the land. Too bad IAG doesn't make the kit for the 02-07 WRX anymore. The oldest kit I can find is for 08 and up. Unless you can point me to a place that has one. It looks like a fun install. I don't like the part about messing with my cruse control. I live by that thing!
Anyway,I'm thinking ...Take the PCV system out,clean it up,replace any worn or broken parts,put it back together,drive off. Right?
I finally figured out how to get pics off my phone. This photo is my first!:laugh: See the oily hose? I'm going out right now and get some carb cleaner and take apart my PCV system and clean it up. I hope that's all it takes. I don't like that blue smoke. I hope I didn't hurt anything. I think I might take pics of the process. Do you think it did any damage?
probably not. its just some extra blow-by. old piston rings are letting more oil past. doesnt means something breaking. just means your car is gettingn on in age.
new PCV parts will probably fix that. i think the assembly on the crankcase is only like $50 from subaru. dont for get the nipple valve on the intake manifold.
Well I got the intercooler off and found nothing like the pics . The pics were for an STi 2.5L not a WRX 2.0L<a href="http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/fidrat24/media/IMG_20160821_152948518_zps2wxoecxi.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag309/fidrat24/IMG_20160821_152948518_zps2wxoecxi.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20160821_152948518_zps2wxoecxi.jpg"/></a>
So I cleaned everything up with carb cleaner and put it all back together with a new PCV valve and drove it back and forth to work. It smoked just as much as it ever did. I'm hoping this will pass as it burns off any left over oil. If not I have a bigger problem.
yea i was just using the pics to show u where the PCV assembly was since i didnt have any pics of my own lol sorry if nay confusion. i figured the red intake manifold was enough of a giveaway lol.
you can set up a simple catch can instead of a expensive AOS. you'll just have to empty it every week.
either way, you're getting alot of blow-by. if you have a stock motor, its not a BIG deal... just bad fuel economy. if your modded and pushing your engine, the blow-by can lower your gas octane level enough to cause detonation. it will still lower it the same amount in a stock engine, its just not a big deal since u are not pushing your motor.
if you just cleaned it out, and its still the same, its possible the check valve has failed, and isnt just dirty.
Block that PCV on intake manifold + Install catch Can = Problem solved forever
"T" in one valve cover port an the crank case port into one port on the catch can. The route the other valve cover port into the other port on the catch can.
There are a variety of ways to install a catch can. There's one right way, two sort-of right ways, and some would argue that at least one common installation method which is wrong.
Sort of right ways:
1) Disconnect the hose which runs between the PCV valve and the turbo inlet pipe. Run a line from the PCV to the catch can, and another line from the catch can to the turbo inlet hose.
2) Disconnect the hose running between the crank case breather lines and the turbo inlet pipe. Run new hose between the breather line and the catch can and another hose between the can and the inlet pipe.
Right way:
Use two catch cans. Configure one as discussed in option one and the other as described in option 2. For optimal effectiveness, this is the way to go.
Wrong way:
Disconnect the PCV<->Inlet line as well as the Crank Vent<->Inlet line. "T" the PCV and Crank vent lines together, and run the remaining end of the "T" to a single nipple on the inlet pipe. Cap the remaining nipple on the inlet. You'll be sending boost into places that definitely shouldn't ever see any. Bad idea.
Wrong way:
Disconnect the PCV<->Inlet line as well as the Crank Vent<->Inlet line. "T" the PCV and Crank vent lines together, and run the remaining end of the "T" to a single nipple on the inlet pipe. Cap the remaining nipple on the inlet. You'll be sending boost into places that definitely shouldn't ever see any. Bad idea.
This statement is incorrect. Your heads see little pressure. The only reason why you get so much blow-by is because of the fact the hoses are hooked up to you intake which is pulling. And its pulling a lot if you are really into boost.
Again this statement is wrong for the fact the hose would have to have the ability to pressurize. It in fact cant because the hose goes to a catch can with a filter that allows the air to be released...
It would be like unhooking you charge pipe from the TB an trying to get the intercooler to pressurize... that's right it cant
Hold on... I should comment on my above statement just to clarify.
The heads on there own will produce a small amount of pressure. If the valve vents were cap'd then this pressure would build.
Even the Crankcase creates small amounts of pressure on its own from compression leaking past the pistons. (very small amounts unless you have ringland failure)
The "T" is not a cap. The minimal pressure created in both places with naturally take the path of least resistance which would be to the catch can. This is then vented to air through a filter.
In order for this to create an issue of increased pressure which would result in a blown out cam seal (highest probability) then this system would have to be sealed in some way. I run 31psi daily with this set-up for 9k+ miles which is double OEM. This would result in a chance of the heads creating even more pressure an the crank case creating more pressure. This would then also give me an EXTREME chance of this "pressurized problem".
If I take one of the hoses off of the catch can there is the smallest amount of air coming out of it. You do not need to worry about the "T" myth and in fact you would be creating more work for yourself, adding clutter under your hood all while spending unneeded money to solve an issue that is not relevant.
My catch can has a filter on it an almost all I have seen do. They either have a filter or have a port to go back out and into the intake system.
There is only 2 options with a catch can... either it vents to air or it is routed back into the intake system pre-turbo. If it doesn't do one of those things the whole system will pressurize whether or not you have a T in it...
That can you posted is one MEANT to be ran back into the intake. This defeats the purposed of never allowing a chance for blow-by again!
I applaud your use of the interwebs to find things to extend your knowledge before doing something or trying to help someone out. But I run systems like these on $500k machines and develop systems just like these. The basis is exactly the same as I what I do. I don't just run photoshop at my work. Maintenance, electrical, IT admin, operator and designer. I have also designed a size clipping machine that my company is working on getting a patent for
There is a problem on the interwebs where someone says something an make themselves sound right not having an extensive knowledge of it to begin with. This then snowballs to hundreds of people believing it as the word of god. There are countless things that were found with some of the HOW TO's an FAQ's with how they are out of date an incorrect. This happens to be one of them. This is when better safe than sorry is a really just a complete waste of your time an resources.
With what you have said I would have blown the seals out already. My system an one that routes back into the intake negates your worry of the T. But should you not do either of those then you completely seal off the system which will result in pressurization of the system resulting in blown cam seals.
At this point I can't provide anymore info on this. It is pretty straight forward on a very simplistic system. Either make the EPA happy an route the sealed can back into the intake or use a breather can. Either way the breather releases any chance of pressure and the intake pulls out possible pressure... Unless the T is a downstep to a 1/64 hole there is NO CHANCE of there EVER being an issue.
the FAQ was for the OP, not for you. sorry if that was mis-understood. and you are correct, the snowball effect is very prodominant on the internet. none-the-less the information in there is valid. old information doesnt make it wrong.
i think you misread what i said. i was agreeing with you. you have a filtered/breather/vented/whatever you want to call them catch can and thus you wont blow your cam seals.
the info you have given applies to your setup with a catch can that has breathers, and is accurate. but i was explaining a breatherless setup to stay emission compliant.
i have a feeling we're argueing two sides of the same coin lol.
I think you are right on with "Arguing 2 sides of the same coin".
Its just when you say breatherless you mean that it routes back into the intake (that's how its emission complaint) and that's where you said that T-ing the crank an valve hose will create pressure and is no-no. That's the part of the FAQ that is incorrect. The intake pulls any possible pressure that could be created which is where we conflicted. There is no need for 2 cans unless someone wants longer intervals between emptying the can(s). Even then I would suggest a larger can over 2.
Sorry to the OP for dragging this on. I just hate to see a cluttered up bay and to see someone do way more than what is needed to be done especially when it is unneeded.
yea my bad, i thought you were talking about a simple 2 port can (1 inlet 1 outlet) like in the DIY i linked, not a multi-port can.
when you said "route the other valve cover port into the other port on the catch can"... i think thats where we got off track lol. you can see how that makes no sense on a 2 port can that i was picturing.
does it smoke on warm up? or only when its idle after driving.
blue smoke on start up = valve seals (if the valve seals are bad, oil has probably dripped into the engine while it was parked)
blue smoke all the time = piston rings or pcv (you have ruled out pcv)
blue smoke randomly = blown turbo (either a failed oil seal or the turbo casing is broken. in both cases they are now letting oil into the intake of the engine.)
Only when its idle after driving highway 30 min or more. HOWEVER...NO SMOKE TODAY!!! I'm thinking (fingers crossed) It was the PCV and it took 3 days for the oil to burn out of where it shouldn't be, only time will tell.
OR...blue smoke randomly = blown turbo (either a failed oil seal or the turbo casing is broken.
How do I check for this? Where do I look? Is the oil seal replaceable? After 13 years and 136,000mi (218,871Km) Am I ready for a new turbo?
you would see oil on your turbo housing. it would look wet, but really its oil leaking out. also if you were to remove the turbo, its pretty obvious on the inside if your seal is gone, there will be oil inside the compressor and turbine housing. and not a little but just from blow-by, it would be a noticeable amount.
it was mostly likely your PCV.
my TD04 on my old motor had 340,000km when pulled and is still going strong on a production class rally car lol.
DAMN!!! I spoke too soon. I came off the highway and went to the car wash. I waited my turn. No blue smoke. Then I went to a drive through just around the corner. While I was waiting for my food here comes the blue smoke monster. I can see it out the back window. I drive home through town. No smoke. I got home and parked it at idle while I was switching cars around and I got big puffs of smoke As I watched it for a while it stopped. I can't be sure but it seemed to stop when the A/C compressor cycled. I just cant imagine what it could be.
Does this look like a turbo with a blown seal to you? Do I have to take it off to really tell? The car runs normally and I get full boost.
that actually looks kinda clean for 14 year old turbo.
what does the CHRA look like? the outside of the CHRA might look a bit wet. right where it bolts to the housings along the seal. but its possible that since you have just noticed it, the leak i in the seal is small and not allowing mass amounts of oil.
(example only: bad internet pic sorry)
this is what im used to seeing when there is a blown turbo seal. your leak might be new enough its not that big to leak like this and u might have to take the turbo off completely and inspect it. but seeing your turbo is that clean, there might not be a problem with your turbo at all.
What is a CHRA ? Also this smoke smells different than my GFs 3000gt that smokes at startup.(valve stem seals) maybe that's just what burnt synthetic smells like. Could I have something as simple as a dirty air cleaner? In the Army I worked on turbo diesel deuce-and-a-halfs. If the air filter was dirty they would smoke like mad. It seems to stop under load hence stopping when the A/C comes on.
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