My08 Hatch gtx3071R - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 01-22-2017, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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My08 Hatch gtx3071R

Hi Guys!

I am new too wrxtuners altho not new to subaru!

I dont know if i have a problem on my car so lets see if anyone can help me!

i have a 2008 hatch wrx and fitted new GTX3071 on and before i did the turbo the car was stuck on 170kw... Nothing made it better had stage 1 map on but the Kw was still the same. So went to a meet up with subaru members and one guy with same WRX as me has got 190kw claiming on 0.9 bar boost and tapers to .8 with a standard k04 turbo 550cc hes got a cold air intake and grimspeed boost controller he too was stuck on 170kw before the controller.

Now i tuned my car with the new turbo and i am making 220Kw at 4000 revs my boost is 1.16 then tapers of pretty fast
my injectors are maxed at 89% so not going to squeeze more out of them...

Does that sound right to you all? 1.1bar 220kw 550cc injectors? of should it give more...

Thanks all

P
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post #2 of 24 Old 01-22-2017, 12:19 PM
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That's a great amount of power for such low boost pressures. Your car, if tuned well will run very safe and you have a ton of headroom to make a lot more power with the expected fuel upgrades if you wanted to. But, Your reliability will suffer going higher. My motor blew up on me with the setup below. I did have a vf39, close to maxed out and past its efficient area running at 19.5psi which is 1.34 bars.

To give you an example, I also have an 08 hatch ( Hell yeah another narrowbody!!) I have a fully built short block, full water to air intercooler, turbo back exhaust, EWG, boost controller, tgv delete and I'm pushing the vf39 into flamethrower mode at peak target boost being 22psi and it's currently tuned mild to run this setup safely and it will on this built motor and the water to air setup being able to cool the charge, but that's this turbo's limit.

I will go to something like an 18g with ball bearings and conservative tune to lower psi for similar boost figures as you and similar power, maybe a bit more until I'm creeping up on my fuel system limits.

Welcome aboard!
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post #3 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thats awesome to hear.

I have read so much storrys on the internet about narrow hatch builds that failed and why it failed and then again some guys pushing out 350hp with standard internals.

My next step will be injectors and at the end of the year do my forge internals.
I am in a subaru club and they did tel me 1.3 bar is too much for the head bolts and will blow gasket. What went wrong with your car?


If any one else has any tuning storys post them
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post #4 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 01:57 AM
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I'm fairly certain climbing a mountain pass in 5th gear. At least one of my rods went but I also noticed that on the same pistons the rings were coming out of the top of the piston.

I'm no engine expert but I'm thinking my rings expanded and closed the gap.

I was going about 75-80 up a steep incline for a good 10 miles and climbing another 10 or so leading up to the pass.

I went over all components and my tune, there was nothing else out of the ordinary.
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post #5 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 02:02 AM
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I never heard about head bolts not holding so little psi. That's very odd. Once again, I'm far from an expert but most stage 2 tunes run in the 17-19 psi range. That's well above your pressure, but your turbo does flow more volume of air.

I'm on stock head bolts. Not only are they stock, they're also reused originals ( minus pre-stretching portion of the torque sequence)... No issues so far, I built the motor about two months ago or so and I've been abusing the car good after break in period.
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post #6 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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That is great to hear.... maybe ill up the boost and see whats up... my injectors are basically maxed so will prob need to do that.

Your engine probably got hot from that mountain pass.


stage 2 19psi on stock internals?
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post #7 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 10:52 AM
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1.5bar is only 21-22psi. you will not blow your head studs and gaskets unless there is already a problem with them and they are weakened. we run 21psi all day long if you have good gas. 1.7bar is around the max we see over here and still stay safe. over that you have a potential to blow.

you will definitely need new injectors if you are to push any more. 550cc is pretty limited. consider something much bigger like 1000cc and make the switch over to ethanol. im assuming you are aussie/nz since your speaking in bar and kw. depending where you are, i know you have access to E85. United E85 is very consistant im told and usually above 80% ethanol.

i would not recommend pushing 1.5bar on 98RON fuel. which is believe is the highest you get at the pump is it not?

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post #8 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Hi titter thx for reply. I live in south africa and our pump fuel is 95.... Thats really bad... I run a octabe booster to get some of the knock away at 4000revs at 13.3 iesh timing.

1.5 sounds very high for standard internals. What power are you guys making?

And i have a e95 supplier.

A tuner told me to use 5 liter e95 with our 20L 95 ron thats pretty good octane.
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post #9 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 11:19 AM
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my appologies for my assumptions.

E95 + 95RON would be pretty decent mix

im currently pushing 20psi (1.4bar) through a stock VF36 on a stock EJ207 running 101RON fuel. sorry i do not know power figures, all my tuning is done on a track or closed course. headbolts were never an issue when i was doing my swap.

i will say this though, i am considering upgrading to a GTX3071R and i will be doing headstuds but im going to push over 1.8bar on ethanol. none the less, with a turbo that size, i personally would do headstuds before i really crank up the boost.

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Last edited by titter; 01-24-2017 at 05:41 AM.
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post #10 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Wow thats decent... Didnt know vf can boost over 1.3 and i think the 207 is better build then ej255
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post #11 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 03:44 PM
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it tapers down to 17psi by 8000rpm but i definitely see 20psi on my boost gauge. yea the 207 is pretty sweet, but the 255 can be good aswell though.

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post #12 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 03:51 PM
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titter, do you mean head studs or bolts? I'm still running bolts, any experience on whether the above comment about bolts has any value?

I was planning on doing more motor work next year after snow melts and I can actually drive to my house. Might be a worth while upgrade while I"m in there if it's something that's needed.
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post #13 of 24 Old 01-23-2017, 03:55 PM
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btw I've toned down my tune quite a bit, but a few weeks ago, just to test out my Water to Air Intercooler setup I was trying to see how far I can push my VF39...

It was happily hitting 23psi and tapering off pretty quickly to redline without knock (I lowered my timing a degree or two for these tests... but I also made the target fuel a bit more lean to just over 11.4 at high load/high rpm cells)... That's 1.58bar and I run on 92 fuel which is the best I have here.

I started overloading the MAP sensor at this point, and upped it's max limit in the map to 5v (it's designed to throw a CEL if it goes above I believe 4.6v.... and it was fine after that but I have no logical reason to run the car like that, it was just testing... so I moved down to around 22psi target boost.
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post #14 of 24 Old 01-24-2017, 03:16 AM Thread Starter
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Wow that is big boy numbers....

I am going to try E20 in my car and going to up my timing.

@Ruso what is beter more boost or more timing? what do you find gives more power?
and what was your timing on logs in boost?
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post #15 of 24 Old 01-24-2017, 03:29 AM
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Dude, funny you ask that. I've been running the higher boost for a couple weeks and literally just on my way home about two hours ago turned down to my 19.5 boost profile and advanced timing to where it was before. It definitely pulls harder.

A part of the reason is that at 19.5 target, it's a smooth boost curve with a nice taper. Same goes for the timing map. At higher boost levels its more a boost spike to 22-23 and then a non- linear taper... So I have to pull timing in more cells.

I did not collect logs tonight. Because my maps aren't knocking and are safe I know what I can safely tinker with so I'm just watching knock and iam.

My main issue is with my EWG right now. It's opening under certain conditions, such as low boost. (i can hear a tiny bit of the sound and there shouldn't be) and high rpm and very low load like when tires spin in snow when using anti-lag but that's another issue. I have it plumbed with one line in bottom port in the bleed configuration... But I'm gonna run a second line and do the other config which uses the top port and keeps it shut. I'll have to redo wgdc so I'll play with timing more when boost is somewhat under control.
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