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axel_javier23 09-29-2012 03:08 PM

My boost gauge stop working.
I just installed a Perrin top mount Intercooler on my 2009 WRX. Right after I test drove it, the boost gauge stopped working and the check engine light came on. Since I have a Cobb stage 2 tune on, I think it might overboost it or broke a hose or a gasket. I unplugged the battery, the check engine light is gone but the car is running funny, not power at all and the gauge still not working. Can anybody tell me what is the reason before I go crazy buying lots of stuff that I don't really need. Thanks!

man show 09-30-2012 03:08 PM

The first thing you should have done is used your Cobb AP to read the check engine light code(s) so you can narrow the problem down a bit. You can also reset your car's ECU and clear any CELs with the AP instead of unhooking your battery. You should do a visual inspection of all the boost and vacuum hoses under the hood that you can see. Make sure nothing is obviously disonnected. Make sure all clamps are tight. It might simply be that the Perrin TMIC is flowing too much air and your car's readings are a bit off and it went into limp mode to protect itself, which is not necessarily a bad thing... just more of a nuisance. Cobb's off the shelf maps are designed for a very specific collection of parts and if you stray far enough from the map notes, your car won't be happy. It sounds like it's time for you to get a protune and possibly a few other go-fast parts ;)

BoostinChick 09-30-2012 08:31 PM

You can also use the Cobb AP to see a live view of your boost to see where you are. Re-check your lines to make sure nothing popped off or came undone when you did the install. Is your boost gauge mechanical or electronic? What exactly stopped working? It just reads 0 (no vac), or no power to the gauge whatsoever?

You could have a CEL if one of the hoses popped off and it's now a pre-MAF boost leak. I know when we helped my friend install his Process West TMIC on his 08 WRX the vac line that routes into the intake (it's the middle back of the intake manifold) kept popping off because the TMIC moved everything ~1-2" higher.

man show 09-30-2012 09:29 PM

^ Good info.

Keep us posted

axel_javier23 10-01-2012 07:33 AM

I did the check the code for the check engine light, it told me that it was the oxygen sensor. I looked at every hose and I found out one of the vac hoses was disconnected. I put it back in place, now the check engine light is gone but the boot gauge won't move from 2PSI. I already bought a performance pre-MAF boost hose because most of the people told that the stock one won't hold more that 17PSI and my car is at over 18-19 right now. I did take it for a Pro tune about two weeks ago, but the bad thing about is the shop location is two hours away from where I live. When I did my last tune, they had everything ready for the inter-cooler swap in the COBB AP. So I'm really hoping the MAF hose fix the problem. The car has injen intake, perrin DP, SPT exhausts, COBB AP stage 2, running 303 HP with 356 LBS of torque, so the configuration is fine is just the intercooler swap that messed everything up. Thanks for you guys input.

axel_javier23 10-01-2012 06:32 PM

I found the problem, it was the hose that goes from the engine to the BOV, it came up lose. Problem solve!! :)

man show 10-02-2012 06:42 PM

Excellent, thanks for the update.

BoostinChick 10-03-2012 06:59 PM

[quote=axel_javier23;286175]I found the problem, it was the hose that goes from the engine to the BOV, it came up lose. Problem solve!! :)[/quote]Sounds like the vacuum hose underneath/behind the plastic intake manifold I told you about :sneaky:

Glad you got it figured out! Happy boosting!

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