Join Date: Apr 2007
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Here's what I'm thinking for parts:
Manley Platinum Series Pistons - As long as they're NOT 4032, but 2618 alloy
Manley H-Beam Connecting Rods - What I'm using
FHI Crank - Do you even need one? Make sure the oem crank is good before dropping money on a new one
ACL Race Rod/Main Bearings - Yup
ARP Head Studs - Yup
IAG TGV Deletes w/ Air Pump Block Off Plates - Yup
Kelford R-199-B 264 Cams
Killer B Ultimate Oil Pickup
GrimmSpeed Air/Oil Separator
GrimmSpeed 8 mm Phenolic Spacer
11 mm Oil Pump - Not really a necessity unless you're running larger clearances, have extra oil NEEDS (oil cooler, added dual avcs, etc)to justify the bigger pump. Generally the bigger the pump with th less need for it, the more it just bypasses and heats up your oil.
and of course any necessary gaskets and hardware
I'm on the fence about Perrin fuel rails. Are they really necessary? - Nope. Unless you want to run a parallel setup, I know guys running gobs of power on oem rails
If the block needs to be bored, I'll go with oversized 100 mm pistons instead of the standard 99.5 mm. - It probably does, but see if you can go 99.75 before jumping to 100mm. The more meat on the walls the better, and pistons should be the same price.
If I need headwork, I might as well upgrade the valves/springs and have them bored.
Now is also probably the time to upgrade the clutch, but the stock clutch was in good shape when the transmission was rebuilt ~13k ago, so I'm on the fence about that one too.- You'll run through the stock clutch in no time with a 20g tuned for a built engine. ACT HD should be a good fit.
I'm still going to use the 11 mm oil pump instead of the 10 mm unit because of the additional pressure that will be available to fill the looser clearances in my engine.
Also, my clutch and flywheel were still completely fine, so they're going to be reused.
And almost forget, your stock clutch probably wont be lasting too long. Im not sure how your driving habits are, but my clutch only lasted just over 8k miles after turbo upgrade.
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