your problems dude not you ..... Good to see you have a sense of humor still. I just emailed my buddy a suby tech all of your posts... Hopefully he'll get back to me today sometime.
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Big Jae -
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I just spent the morning driveing around stareing at the Boost gauge ...it SEEMS that the car starts to have problems ( miss) when the car starts to boost?????....what would this mean ....would a bad turbo blowing oil do this????......DOes ANYONE know what the sensor at the throttle body ( where i shorted the wire) does?? is it a TPS or some sort of boost sensor......i thin ki read in some COBB AP manual that the boost sensor is after the TB ????..?? ?????????
I dont know how I over looked it or ...how I ...oh hell... I just dont know....
BUT 5k miles and 50 pounds of Compression in cyl #4 .
..
How do I find out if its a ring, valve or piston ???
and how much am I looking at to have it fixed.( depending on each of the above). ???
You need to do a leak down test to figure out if it's a piston or a ring. I forget what means what with a leak down test because I haven't done one in forever, but someone else can hopefully chime in here. Personally, I'd get that car back to stock and hope that the dealer doesn't know you've done all sorts of stuff to the car and take it in to have it looked at. If not you're looking to pull that and fix the piston or the ring. Good luck.
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Patrick - 2007 STi Limited
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Seriously somebody needs to make this a sticky to show what happens when you put all the "bad" stuff on and the end results.Just because the you car is running doesn't mean everything is OK.There is so much info all over the net about using those parts and what happens and you used them ALL together?Try sending in an oil sample to Blackstone labs and they will give you an idea what happened by the metals found in the oil.The test runs about $25.I betting on piston or valve here.
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Aarg matey!
ECU Pirated by RomRaider
You are correct.!
They should make this a STICKY .
TO tell the truth I have never been able to find a thread about a SAFC2. I have seen a few saying nothing of importance.
I hve looked on here and on a few other sites..
I should have asked before I started to modd.
SO if this was made a sticky it might help some person like me .
I would have loved to come acrossed this thread when I was putting all the crap on my car .
You are correct.!
They should make this a STICKY .
TO tell the truth I have never been able to find a thread about a SAFC2. I have seen a few saying nothing of importance.
I hve looked on here and on a few other sites..
I should have asked before I started to modd.
SO if this was made a sticky it might help some person like me .
I would have loved to come acrossed this thread when I was putting all the crap on my car .
I'd just like to tell you what I think happened to your car...
The SAFC is capable of controlling a/f points. It does this using static numbers at various RPM ranges. It basically overrides what the ECU wants to do. It is a problem with piggy back systems in general. I'm willing to bet that during a spirited drive the engine was running a little too lean and was either not able to pull enough timing, or it was not pulling timing at all. As a result you had a bunch of detonation and fried the ring on Cyl #4. I'm actually suprised it didn't happen to #3 first as that usually runs the hottest on these cars but I guess all it takes is a big enough kaboom to make it go.
I am going to guess that you just need a new set of rings and it will be fine, but the fact remains that the motor has to come out of the car. Have you started taking it back to stock yet?
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Patrick - 2007 STi Limited
▼SùbiΣ Mäƒiä▼
I'd just like to tell you what I think happened to your car...
The SAFC is capable of controlling a/f points. It does this using static numbers at various RPM ranges. It basically overrides what the ECU wants to do. It is a problem with piggy back systems in general. I'm willing to bet that during a spirited drive the engine was running a little too lean and was either not able to pull enough timing, or it was not pulling timing at all. As a result you had a bunch of detonation and fried the ring on Cyl #4. I'm actually suprised it didn't happen to #3 first as that usually runs the hottest on these cars but I guess all it takes is a big enough kaboom to make it go.
I am going to guess that you just need a new set of rings and it will be fine, but the fact remains that the motor has to come out of the car. Have you started taking it back to stock yet?
yes the only thing on the car is EXHAUST and cobb AP
I do have a question. :
Would 2006 wrx heads bolt on a 06 sti block?
thay are both 2.5
I am pritty sure that thay will. but i need to know for sure
I'd just like to tell you what I think happened to your car...
The SAFC is capable of controlling a/f points. It does this using static numbers at various RPM ranges. It basically overrides what the ECU wants to do. It is a problem with piggy back systems in general. I'm willing to bet that during a spirited drive the engine was running a little too lean and was either not able to pull enough timing, or it was not pulling timing at all. As a result you had a bunch of detonation and fried the ring on Cyl #4. I'm actually suprised it didn't happen to #3 first as that usually runs the hottest on these cars but I guess all it takes is a big enough kaboom to make it go.
I am going to guess that you just need a new set of rings and it will be fine, but the fact remains that the motor has to come out of the car. Have you started taking it back to stock yet?
The main problem with the SAFC is it's all fuel based on TPS position and RPM,not boost or load.And it has absolutly no control over timing.So you have a piggy back that used two sensors to decide fueling while the stock ECU uses around 12.I know the DSM guys used to use a "hack" method by connecting the TPS signal wire to an airflow sensor so fueling would be some what relative to boost.Plus the MBC,intercooler and intake were not helping things.
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Aarg matey!
ECU Pirated by RomRaider
Im suprised no body posted this yet but more then half the time there is a check engine light for a cylinder 4 missfire is caused from the valves running too tight. This is not as serious as it sounds because its only shims and buckets, about a 3-5 hour job. We get the same problem a lot in our shop and a valve adjustment always fixes the problem. I have the same problem with my car but you know its bad when you come to a stop and the car stalls until then either put up with the light or go get it fixed! hope that helps some people out there.
Also lightned crank pulley or lightned flywheel can cause phantom missfires on all 4 cyclinders.With custom tuning you can go back and change the parameters the ECU uses to decide when to trigger a CEL.Its set at the factory for" 1 missfire" triggers a CEL.I have adjusted mine to "3 missfires" triggers a CEL as my ACT Streetlight flywheel will sometimes trigger numorous random missfires every now and then.Sometimes days apart,sometimes months apart.
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Aarg matey!
ECU Pirated by RomRaider
Linear Mode
