well you mentioned your car is back to stage 2? do u have a stage 2 flash on there also? get that utec tuned!!!! i know u keep saying it's too far for a tune and u think u dont need one for a daily driver. a tune is not just to gain hp but it's also to make sure your car runs safe. and detonation is the quickest recipe to blow your engine. spend the money now to get a tune although u said it's far. if u keep trying to go around this you are going to regret it. THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM!!!! u dont need a fuel pump for stage 2 it wouldn't hurt but you dont need it.
i dont wanna see your next post as "my engine just blew up"
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rollin on 17's now and they're dirty
You could be having the same problem I had as well though. I went and got my car tuned after I upgrade to stage 4 and knock sensor was found to be faulty. Tuner first tuned car and everything seemed fine. Did another pull full out after it was tuned and the knock sensor went crazy. He immediately shut down and checked the problem. We changed the knock sensor and no flashing. Just something to try out to see if it would help. Alsp like stated above the stock maps in a utec are just safe maps to cover broad setups that people run. GET IT PRO TUNED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i got my 03 bugeye tuned there^^^^^ and plan on going there again to get my sti tuned in the future. (although it's more than twice as far for me, about 4hours away)
the people at MZM have had several of their customer's cars make it on D SPORT magazine. when i had my bugeye tuned there, there was a supra 2 rx7's and an s2000 in the shop that were all out of state. not to mention they primarily do subies and evos. (they are pricey though)
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rollin on 17's now and they're dirty
like a walbro 255lph, and problems with install like fouling or running to rich?
and btw i am running a code for being lean.
Dude just take the frigg'n car to someone already.If you put the pump in the car and they tune it how is it going to run rich?You don't make any sense.Thats why when you put parts on a car you get it it tuned.Plus the fact that the FPR is regulating the flow.If the pump pushed more fuel,the FPR lets more fuel go.The idea of the pump is for WOT and higher boost pressures.You need more fuel to be moving since more fuel is being used durring that time.Since you are still running the stock airbox ,I would think the lean code is from either a pre-turbo air leak (air is getting sucked in post-MAF) or maybe a vacuum leak.If you have the stock turbo inlet pipe that would be my first check.Those are notorious for leaking.Check all the clamps and vac lines.
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Aarg matey!
ECU Pirated by RomRaider
sry dude i was at school and didnt have time to explain, if i put that fuel pump in will i risk anything happening to the motor?
i uderstand its getting tuned, im saying when i put it in will it run very rich?
btw dude come on im trying to go get it tuned, im still in school another week, so be easy on me- im already stressed as it is with finals
the car has been tested numerous times for a vaccum leak and none is present, the turbo inlet hose is made by perrin, i put it in and there is no leaks, but what are you talking bout a post maf sensor leak, pulling air in somewhere else??
Post MAF means (standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay) all the hoses from the sensor to the right and up into the turbo. AKA your turbo inlet and all connections on it.
im still in school another week, so be easy on me- im already stressed as it is with finals
+1 on the suck. i had to wake up early as shit to finish up my final english paper, im on 3 hours of sleep. not to mention i work full time it is almost over though just got speech finals and that's it (well for this semester)
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rollin on 17's now and they're dirty
everyone, im back on after having my internet line shorted in my house.
Current things done:
Greddy timing belt
oem rollers
oem water pump
oem seals
royal purple oil change and getting ready for trans fluid also.
Apexi intake installed.
TMIC reinstalled
Utec switched back to stage 3
after i got it running it is smooth till 3500-4000rpms then it is between 5-10psi on my boost gauge and it dumps black smoke out and chugs. cant go past that chugs to bad. it is like your going then all of a sudden a 4000 lb boat anchor just got attached.
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