After BOV Installation - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-12-2010, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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After BOV Installation

I just received my Greddy RS BOV today and I self installed (which I must say I am proud of myself after much effort 1hr 45 minutes). My problem is that knew once I installed it, there would be some sort of irregularities due to the pressure difference, but the engine idle speed fluctuates like crazy (my normal engine idle is about 500-650maybe even 700) but now its idling at 500 then fluctuates high then so low below 500 that it almost seems an engine stall is imminent, then it shoots back up to normal idle. For example when I pressed the clutch in, downshifted 3rd to 2nd and came to a stop, the idle dropped extremely low and then shot back up to normal and continues to fluctuate. And just now on the way home, the car backfired at least 3 times. I was told by a friend that it might be the throttle plate that's dirty and another friend said that I will need a cobb accessport to reflash it, but since those are so damn expensive, I figured I could use a tactrix cable to reflash it.

It is completely drivable, just the engine idle is what gets me. What do you guys think?
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 07:50 AM
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Try reinstalling your stock bpv and see if the problem goes away

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post #3 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 09:32 AM
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Well first off a tune of any sorts wont help the cause at all, regardless. But Im guessing that the BOV is fully atmospheric. I have read that they will cause issues with the car, rough shifts, idle issues. So it just sounds like you have the normal issues associated with a BOV, no real way to fix it, especially if you are pretty much stock.

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post #4 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I read about those issues and yup, it's vented to the atmosphere. My engine bay has no room to work with so it would be hard for me to get to the required hoses and access ports if I wanted to recirculate, which I'm sure would help with the issues.

I tried turning the hex nut to the hard position a little bit, and it helped the issue a bit, so I'll try to turn it even more to see if it helps.

It's not a completely stock car, the engine is though (I plan on upgrading to an aftermarket intercooler so maybe it'll help too since the BOV is attached to the intercooler. catless UP/DP/CBE.
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 02:02 PM
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Usually the issue is high "tight" the spring is. You are pushing enough PSI, or making enough power to really warrant an aftermarket BOV. The IC wont help the "problem". The best thing to do, if you want the sound of a BOV is to get some sort of BPV that has a "hybrid" setup (i.e. Perrin, Cobb, GFB, TurboSmart, to name a few).

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post #6 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 03:50 PM
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So did you pull the stock hoses off that plumb the stock bpv when you did the install? If you didn't it's not a big deal to sell the bov and buy a hybrid. That will help a lot. Still may not run like stock, but it will be pretty close. BOV's are a complete waste for our cars unless you want to sound cool. Then your car stalls... Wups

-Chris
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 04:18 PM
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BOVs are a complete waste on a lightly modded car. Yes you can still use the stock BPV at around the 22PSI range (give or take a few PSI), but you have to "modify" it (usually by crushing it with a hammer of all things). I probably could have pushed the limits of my stock unit if I wanted, but would rather have been over prepared than not prepared at all.

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post #8 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 05:54 PM
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Well Im not going to flame but a simple google search or searching here on the boards regarding BOVs show that our MAF sensors dont like the fact the air isnt being recirculated back into the turbo spool. It has an issue regarding how much to regulate and thats what causes the rough idle. A stall probably will happen, probably coming to a stop when your RPMs will dip low enough and your car will just die. Driving like that and youll probably throw a CEL about the engine running rich. I myself run an after market bov, but it is changeable and I have it set for fully recirculation. If you TRULY want to hear the noise, you can delete the snorkel silencer on your passenger side (pretty sure it applies to the 05 models no?), and get yourself an intake.

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post #9 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 07:14 PM
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^ Yep, pretty sure it's just the 08+ wrx that doesn't have the silencer. I would say but an intake, but the earlier years don't like them.

-Chris
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 09:28 PM
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depending on who you talk to, the stock unit can handle 18-20ish psi. personally ill take my tuners advice and replace it above 18psi so after time the spring doesnt take a crap on me, crack or leak one day when im just driving around.

OP your issues your talking about have nothing to do with the BOV its self! its how you installed it. you might have a small vacuum leak somewhere. you actually have to MAKE boost and high enough boost to even open a BOV. stalling and rough idle have nothing to do with a BOV. why? because its closed anytime your in vacuum! i can drive around all day and never hit boost, the BPV doesnt open and when im come to a stop or idle its as closed as it was while driving.

if you noticed such a big difference after install you have 3 connections to check. 1. the BOV to intercooler. 2. the vacuum line on top of the BOV. and 3. since you said its vent to atmos, how did you plug the large 1 inch hole that the OEM BPV blew into?? is it plugged correctly? thoughs are your only options if it is your problem. you will only have an issue if your hitting boost, your BOV is opening and then maybe you'll notice hesitation when you shift because your ECU threw more fuel in than was needed because of the lack of air coming from your OEM BPV.

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post #11 of 12 Old 03-13-2010, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post

if you noticed such a big difference after install you have 3 connections to check. 1. the BOV to intercooler. 2. the vacuum line on top of the BOV. and 3. since you said its vent to atmos, how did you plug the large 1 inch hole that the OEM BPV blew into?? is it plugged correctly? thoughs are your only options if it is your problem. you will only have an issue if your hitting boost, your BOV is opening and then maybe you'll notice hesitation when you shift because your ECU threw more fuel in than was needed because of the lack of air coming from your OEM BPV.

For my 1st connection to check, it could be the BOV itself with how its connected to the IC; I didn't use the supplied gasket to connect the BOV to the IC, so it's just BOV --- IC. I will try that and see how it goes.

For my 2nd connection to check, the vacuum hose is secure to the BOV, but it swivels back and forth and I dont know how to stop it (the hose is tightly secured nonetheless)

For my 3rd connection to check, I used the provided metal plug to plug up the OEM hose. It said I needed to use a flange to secure it, but I can't read down that far to screw it tight and the plug was tight enough.

I tightened the spring towards the hard setting, and the engine idle problem seems to have been solved, or atleast subsided. The only issue that seems to remain is the backfiring, or popping (if there's a difference). I've been told that it happens because basically the A/F ratio is wack. It's BARELY noticeable, but like you said, I can notice a hesitation when I shift (which normally doesn't happen before).

I'm headed out to a Subaru meet, so I'll check with the other guys to see what they think
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-14-2010, 12:03 AM
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Your leak is probably where the BOV is connected to the I/C, you need to have some type of gasket there or you are definetly going to have some type of leak. The "afterfire" is normal (kind of), its the unspent (extra) fuel being burnt off that the engine is now dumping in there due to the rich condition of the BOV.

Joshua
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