2008 Subaru Wrx Will Not Go Into Gear! - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 05-06-2017, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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2008 Subaru Wrx Will Not Go Into Gear!

Please help! My MC is and has been full of fluid. The clutch pedal started to get loose on me as I was driving and after it was park for a good 3 hours I hopped in it and it would not go into any gear. There are no leaks I see from the MC. Any help would be much appreciated!
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post #2 of 7 Old 05-07-2017, 01:28 AM
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The master cylinder presses on the clutch fork which moves the pressure plate. Try to see if you can move the clutch fork by hand. If so, your pressure plate or clutch fork are toast.

Can you verify that pressing your clutch in actually makes the master cylinder engage?
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post #3 of 7 Old 05-07-2017, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ruso View Post
The master cylinder presses on the clutch fork which moves the pressure plate. Try to see if you can move the clutch fork by hand. If so, your pressure plate or clutch fork are toast.

Can you verify that pressing your clutch in actually makes the master cylinder engage?
I can move the fork by hand but that's only if the slave cylinder gets pushed in fot a second though the fork has some play from moving it side to side.

From underneath the pedals? I'm not really sure how to verify that but the rod goes through but doesnt seem like it wants to fully.
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post #4 of 7 Old 05-08-2017, 02:27 PM
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You should not be able to push the clutch fork down in the same direction the the master cylinder pushes it. Carefully (without letting it extend), remove the master cylinder, remove the rubber boot around the clutch fork... and inspect what's going on.

The clutch fork should be sitting on a ball type pivot with a spring clamp and should will have some side to side play, and a little bit front to back, but by no means should you be able to move it by hand.

Here's what the clutch fork looks like on our year inside the tranny. The spherical "indent" faces the transmission side and clicks in on a ball pivot.
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post #5 of 7 Old 05-11-2017, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruso View Post
You should not be able to push the clutch fork down in the same direction the the master cylinder pushes it. Carefully (without letting it extend), remove the master cylinder, remove the rubber boot around the clutch fork... and inspect what's going on.

The clutch fork should be sitting on a ball type pivot with a spring clamp and should will have some side to side play, and a little bit front to back, but by no means should you be able to move it by hand.

Here's what the clutch fork looks like on our year inside the tranny. The spherical "indent" faces the transmission side and clicks in on a ball pivot.
[iurl="http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=37378&d=1494271634"]http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/atta...&stc=1&thumb=1[/iurl]
Thanks for the reply back ruso! I ended up taking it to my local Subaru dealer. I thought and hoped it would be a hydraulic problem in the system but turns out it's ot unfortunately. Anyways they diagnosed it and told me its the pressure plate. Said that it's worn off and will not release the clutch plate. Needs a whole new clutch kit put into it.

I'm really not to sure what to go with. Id like to upgrade to a heavier stage 1 clutch but I've been seeing people say if it's a stock transmission then go with stock clutch. I do not have this car heavily modified at all as of right now. Just a stage 1 cobb acessport tune and an aem CAI. I don't want to cause my transmission any failure but I also want to be able to go up to atleast 350HP.
Thanks for any information!
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post #6 of 7 Old 05-11-2017, 10:39 AM
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There's a big difference between 350hp and 350WHP, whp is about 15-20% less than what the crank is putting out which means you will need to worry about your pistons before your transmission if you know how to shift. Don't listen to those who say "anything other than stock will break your 5MT", they're full of crap. Abusing, not knowing how/when to shift, banging through the gears, there's many different variables that come into play when reliability of the 5MT is being considered. People are still breaking the 5MT while stock, not just the 02-03 5MT but the 08+ and even the new wrx 6MT (it still uses the 5MT case halves). It's all in how you drive it!

If you don't want something too grabby, check out South Bend Clutch. I have their Stage2 Daily, it's stiffer than stock but engages near the OEM point halfway to the top or closer and is good for 350wtq. If you plan to stay below 300whp, go stage 1 or 2 daily as it's still a full disc clutch (not puck) and learn how to use it like you would any new clutch. They use Exedy parts to start then modify them to suit, and if you don't already know, Exedy makes the OEM clutch.

I had an ACT Stage 2 clutch (the XTSS, not HDSS) and it was complete ass, on/off engagement, 2500+ revs to get going no matter what (if you don't want chatter/harsh NVH), and it destroyed my 5MT bearings inside the transmission..oh and ACTs TOBs are utter shit, had to replace 2 in a year due to defect.

One last thing, when you get a new clutch it's a great idea to use a new flywheel. Why? Because over time you scrub away the friction surface with the clutch disc, increasing the gap between the disc and flywheel, which with high mileage cars can change how they engage and shorten clutch life. If you decide you want a lightweight flywheel (LWFW) I highly recommend you stay above 13lbs as anything less has been known to cause a P0300 (random misfire) and if you have OBD inspections will prevent you from passing.

I use a Competition Clutch LWFW (about 14lbs) and I don't have P0300 and if makes driving so much more enjoyable. If you really want to have a nice LWFW, find one in that weight range with a replaceable friction surface. I had a Fidanza LWFW like that and when it got worn, $80-100 later I had an essentially new LWFW with a new friction surface.
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post #7 of 7 Old 05-12-2017, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RoboTuner View Post
There's a big difference between 350hp and 350WHP, whp is about 15-20% less than what the crank is putting out which means you will need to worry about your pistons before your transmission if you know how to shift. Don't listen to those who say "anything other than stock will break your 5MT", they're full of crap. Abusing, not knowing how/when to shift, banging through the gears, there's many different variables that come into play when reliability of the 5MT is being considered. People are still breaking the 5MT while stock, not just the 02-03 5MT but the 08+ and even the new wrx 6MT (it still uses the 5MT case halves). It's all in how you drive it!

If you don't want something too grabby, check out South Bend Clutch. I have their Stage2 Daily, it's stiffer than stock but engages near the OEM point halfway to the top or closer and is good for 350wtq. If you plan to stay below 300whp, go stage 1 or 2 daily as it's still a full disc clutch (not puck) and learn how to use it like you would any new clutch. They use Exedy parts to start then modify them to suit, and if you don't already know, Exedy makes the OEM clutch.

I had an ACT Stage 2 clutch (the XTSS, not HDSS) and it was complete ass, on/off engagement, 2500+ revs to get going no matter what (if you don't want chatter/harsh NVH), and it destroyed my 5MT bearings inside the transmission..oh and ACTs TOBs are utter shit, had to replace 2 in a year due to defect.

One last thing, when you get a new clutch it's a great idea to use a new flywheel. Why? Because over time you scrub away the friction surface with the clutch disc, increasing the gap between the disc and flywheel, which with high mileage cars can change how they engage and shorten clutch life. If you decide you want a lightweight flywheel (LWFW) I highly recommend you stay above 13lbs as anything less has been known to cause a P0300 (random misfire) and if you have OBD inspections will prevent you from passing.

I use a Competition Clutch LWFW (about 14lbs) and I don't have P0300 and if makes driving so much more enjoyable. If you really want to have a nice LWFW, find one in that weight range with a replaceable friction surface. I had a Fidanza LWFW like that and when it got worn, $80-100 later I had an essentially new LWFW with a new friction surface.
Thanks for the information Robotuner! I meant as in 350HP. So with my price range I got and the time I need it done in, I decided to go ahead and go with the Exedy Oem clutch kit and I believe I should be okay with that to top off on 350. Its my daily but I also wanna put some more power into it in the future.
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