2003 WRX Overheating - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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2003 WRX Overheating

Hey guys, this problem is a few months old. But either way, this spring I noticed that I was starting to get hot one morning as I pulled into the garage at work. Coolant was low, filled her up, and the next morning noticed she was empty again. Stopped driving it as I noticed a hairline crack in the radiator that it was leaking from that would spray the coolant back on to the underside of the hood.

Replaced that. Good to go right? Drove it again, started overheating again. Towed it home. All the coolant levels are still full. Let it idle for awhile, no issues.

Drove it one more time, overheated again. Towed home again. Now the heater also isn't pumping out hot air.

I was thinking water pump, although I hope not. Thermostat? System not cycling through the coolant? All the levels are still full, and this has been, 4 months since the radiator change, only been driven three times since. Last test I made it maybe a mile before I started feeling uncomfortable.

I really appreciate any info, as I'm currently on a 5 hour public transportation daily commute for what should be a 30 minute drive to work.
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post #2 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 08:20 PM
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Possible when the car over heater the thermostats heated up and caused it to be stuck closed. If your not getting any hot Air that normally happens when there is air in the system. Did you try bleeding the system? Start the car and squeeze the radiator hoses for the bubbles to come up this takes 10 mins sometime. ( today after doing a water pump on a prius it took 10 mins of bleeding the system untill we got hot air). Let me know how that goes I have a feeling it's the thermostat. Hope this helps


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post #3 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 08:29 PM
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Def sounds like you've got air in the system. Squeeze the hoses, leave the cap off, and allow for overflow like mentioned. If that doesn't work you're looking at a thermostat. Start with what's free first.

I just had to replace the thermostat in my work truck and it took like 20m to fully bleed out. Did you bleed the system when you did the radiator?


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post #4 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 09:05 PM
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Maybe obvious question but are your fans running? If you do replace the thermostat, grimmspeed makes a nice 160° one that will only get stuck in the open position if it fails.

Adair
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow_awd View Post
Hey guys, this problem is a few months old. But either way, this spring I noticed that I was starting to get hot one morning as I pulled into the garage at work. Coolant was low, filled her up, and the next morning noticed she was empty again. Stopped driving it as I noticed a hairline crack in the radiator that it was leaking from that would spray the coolant back on to the underside of the hood.

Replaced that. Good to go right? Drove it again, started overheating again. Towed it home. All the coolant levels are still full. Let it idle for awhile, no issues.

Drove it one more time, overheated again. Towed home again. Now the heater also isn't pumping out hot air.

I was thinking water pump, although I hope not. Thermostat? System not cycling through the coolant? All the levels are still full, and this has been, 4 months since the radiator change, only been driven three times since. Last test I made it maybe a mile before I started feeling uncomfortable.

I really appreciate any info, as I'm currently on a 5 hour public transportation daily commute for what should be a 30 minute drive to work.
Bleed the system and let us know how by goes


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post #6 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ill have some more time this weekend as I now spend 50 hours working and 25 commuting, but I'm not very car smart. My buddy who works at a dealership installed the radiator, and I'm not really sure what bleeding means. Either way, I moved it from street to driveway just now, took off the caps and squeezed the top hose for a bit. Let it idle between 2-2500 for some time with the heat going. The temp gauge flew up to the first hash after a little bit, I got scared. Never rose anymore, but still no heat coming out of the heater. Luke warm air at best. Saw some steam coming from where the cap was and the top hose was hot, but too dark to see anything else. Still going with the bus for the rest of the week. Thanks for the quick input, any advice is helpful.
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Yes the fans kicked on
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by slow_awd View Post
Yes the fans kicked on
Again when I removed my radiator on my 06 Wrx it took it a long time for it to get heat. And all the air out the system. Squeeze the hose and let coolant flow out keep adding and squeezing the hose and keeping an eye on the air temp in the car


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post #9 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 09:37 PM
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When I've done coolant in the past I bought a funnel with fittings for like $30 on summit.com. this allows you to put extra coolant in and it helps get the air bubbles out.

Andy - 12 WRB WRX
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 09:38 PM
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When I've done coolant in the past I bought a funnel with fittings for like $30 on summit.com. this allows you to put extra coolant in and it helps get the air bubbles out.
Oh yeah I forgot about that tool we have one at work great tool for bleeding purposes


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post #11 of 12 Old 09-10-2013, 09:40 PM
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Yea definitely easy to use and see when it's all done bubbling.

Andy - 12 WRB WRX
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post #12 of 12 Old 09-21-2013, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Bled the lines and filled the reservoir by the turbo last week. Upper radiator hose burst, replaced. Ran in the driveway for an hour and all the coolant that spilled burnt off. No problems with overheating, the gauge just raises to the normal spot where the first hash mark is.

A week into driving it and all coolant levels are still good, just the smell occasionally of coolant after a long drive, which I presume is still whatever still burning off. I wind up watching the temp gauge more than the speed or tach.

Sound like I am good to go?
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