02 WRX many codes - Subaru WRX Forum
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#1 Old 07-26-2010, 07:23 PM
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*UPDATED* 02 WRX many codes

Hey all, my name is chris and I just bought my first wrx and was hoping you might help me with this problem. The car is an 02 wagon all stock and it just started running like crap. Its idling crazy and stumbling at low rpms. I ran for codes and came up with this... P0102,p0301,p0302,p0303,p0304,p0113.
Thanks in advance

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#2 Old 07-27-2010, 12:52 AM
 
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The P0301-P0304 are misfire codes, which would be the result of the issues caused by the other two. P0102 indicates a problem with your MAF sensor, and P0113 your intake temperature sensor. I would start with cleaning the MAF, and clearing the ECU. I would also look for anything askew with wiring clips and vacuum lines. The full diagnostic procedure can be found in the shop manual: Impreza Manuals | ken-gilbert.com
I wouldn't panic, as I don't think it will be hard to find the problem or expensive. Good luck
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#3 Old 07-27-2010, 07:44 AM
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Have you kept up with routine maintenance? When was the last time the spark plugs were changed?

John
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#4 Old 07-27-2010, 09:37 AM
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Ok, I cleaned the maf last night with crc maf cleaner, cleared the codes, and within minutes of starting the codes came back. As far as maintenance, I just got the car however I did pull a plug and it was black which would indicate being rich right? I think my maf may just be completely out.
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#5 Old 07-27-2010, 12:27 PM
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any type of air leak between the maf sensor and the engine can cause a misfire condition on your car. start by your maf sensor and follow your intake, looking for loose clamps, cracks, holes. anything that could be letting in unmetered air.
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#6 Old 07-27-2010, 05:28 PM
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Well I have bad news guys. While checking plugs and such I decided to go ahead and run a compression test and if I figured right I have absolutely 0 compression on #4 cylinder all others where at around 152. Anyone have a dyi on a rebuild?
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#7 Old 07-27-2010, 07:09 PM
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You probably dont need a rebuild. Its probably just a head gasket or a warped head. You need to get that head off to really see what your going to need. Its not that big of a deal. Now would be a good idea to invest in a service manual to make sure you do it right.
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#8 Old 07-27-2010, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subyaddict View Post
You probably dont need a rebuild. Its probably just a head gasket or a warped head. You need to get that head off to really see what your going to need. Its not that big of a deal. Now would be a good idea to invest in a service manual to make sure you do it right.
Ok I will get one tomorrow. But I thought if it were the head gasket or head being warped it would leak coolant or oil. Like I said I have only owned inline fours so I feel like a retarded kid when I look at this motor.
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#9 Old 08-07-2010, 12:21 AM
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Ok guys I have an update for ya. Upon pulling the head I come to realize that I have a burnt exhaust valve. My next question is do I just replace the valve and go on about my day or what would have caused one valve to burn that needs to be fixed?
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#10 Old 08-07-2010, 02:27 PM
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Make sure that all your clearances are set to factory specs, and then make sure you've pre-lubed it when you're putting it in.

Black doesn't mean it's been running rich. That indicates detonation, which could be caused by the car running rich and then having that fuel detonate when the motor gets hot. Black spark plugs also indicate a lean condition, which someone will have to fill in the blank, I know the WRX typically has 1 cylinder that runs a little lean, but I thought it was cylinder 2. Anyone?
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#11 Old 08-07-2010, 05:22 PM
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Cylinder 3 is what I've always gone by

FP GT35R MoTeC M800 AndrewTech PPG'd Wagon - 513AWHP
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#12 Old 08-08-2010, 01:02 AM
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Well does anyone know for sure what cylinder? Everything looks fine other than #4 and both ex valves are black and one is chipped and the plug was black too. But as I said I really don't know where to look now.
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#13 Old 08-08-2010, 04:21 PM
 
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Matt is correct. #3 is the problem cylinder on the boxer. If it were mine, and I'm speculating that the car has high miles, I would send both heads out for professional valve work. There are shops that do a good job for well under $400 for both and the gasket and seal set won't set you back too much either. The hard part is removing the cam pulleys. Ask my 6' cheater pipe how we know
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#14 Old 08-09-2010, 11:18 PM
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What kind of professional work do I need? I thought everything else was good isn't 152-156 good compression? The only problem I have is in cylinder 4 so wouldn't I just need to replace those valves and seals? And I'm not being a smart ass I am just curious cause I haven't had a valve job before I have always just replaced the valve and the seal.
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#15 Old 08-13-2010, 11:38 AM
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Ok guys I am kind of confused and need your help. I have been reading and saw on another forum that someone suggested removing a restrictor in galleries of the heads. But am I removing, cleaning, and replacing? Or just removing?
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