Thinking about a pro-tune as my next step... - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #16 of 36 Old 09-21-2010, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, so it sounds like you guys are steering me back toward the semi-common, proven path...

Something along the lines of:

pnp'd and/or thermal coated/wrapped stock headers with a high flow crosspipe
larger tmic (need to research)
intake (Cobb or SPT? probably with a heat shield)
Walbro 255 lph high pressure fuel pump (already have it, not yet installed)
3 port bcs (Grimmspeed?)
tune for that stuff

...probably going to need some gauges and/or catch can or air/oil separator

Then:
larger injectors (need to research)
aftermarket turbo (need to research)
tune for that

Then:
build trans
build engine

John
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post #17 of 36 Old 09-21-2010, 09:15 PM
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post #18 of 36 Old 09-21-2010, 11:35 PM
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save up for a tranny, then u can go for broke with the motor/turbo. how much would it suck to have all these new parts that make it go fast but not being able to drive it? if i had to say anything, i would say EWG and protune. that wil make ## car move smoother and sound awesome
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post #19 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 12:15 AM
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John if you want the Cobb style SRI you might check into Mode racing (I dont think Cobb makes their box anymore, but idk havent looked in awhile). TMIC is whatever you really like or fits the budget ( I like APS and of course TurboXS; the APS at the time I was looking was impossible to find). I have heard from several tuners I have talked to that the Grimmspeed BCS is the best out there (but always check with your tuner to see what they are comfortable with). Injectors I say go with DW, thats what I have, thats what both my tuners suggested, plus you get a core refund when you turn yours in (but again something to check with a tuner about also). Turbo, well thats on what you want/can afford again (also determines what injectors you should look into). And engine/trans build, well thats kind of neither here nor there if you do your research and have a good tune. I ran for 15,xxx miles on a 20G with stock trans and clutch. When I just got the transmission rebuilt, the shop said my stock gears were in excellent condition (actually said they look like it just came from the factory). The clutch did start to slip, but I attribute that to the hills in WA, and the constant stop and go traffic I drove in during the week. So yes, save for a transmission, but if driven properly and taken care the stock transmission will last just fine.

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Stage 2 2005 WRX
Cobbtuning.com"
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post #20 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man show View Post
Alright, so it sounds like you guys are steering me back toward the semi-common, proven path...

Something along the lines of:

pnp'd and/or thermal coated/wrapped stock headers with a high flow crosspipe
larger tmic (need to research)
intake (Cobb or SPT? probably with a heat shield)
Walbro 255 lph high pressure fuel pump (already have it, not yet installed)
3 port bcs (Grimmspeed?)
tune for that stuff

...probably going to need boost, afr, egt, and oil pressure gauges and an air/oil separator


Then:
build trans
build engine


Then:
Injector Dynamic's 1000cc
Blouch 18 or 20G-XT
Tune on E85


(
FIXED

You need more smiley faces in there so I added those as well. I'm building my spare engine right now, goes into the machine shop shortly, it's a fun, detailed, crazy learning curved process (granted I have rebuilt an AMC 304 before, a modern subaru engine is a new one for me).

-Chris
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post #21 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 12:27 PM
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I say get the tranny built up FIRST.... After all, it is the weak link on the car....

Launch all day long....

Paul
2002 WRX Sold
2007 WRX Sold
2007 STi totaled
2007 Foz XT sold
2007 MS3
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post #22 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 12:35 PM
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I'm going the risky route... So far the 08+ trans is proving to be pretty strong. The car won't be my dd once this engine is done and in the car, so I'm not worried about down time if the trans does go kaboom.... At least then I have an actual reason to drop all that cash on PPG's and not do it just because everybody says so.

Not to mention all the 08+ making big power had the engine pop and not the trans....

-Chris
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post #23 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 01:07 PM
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Nobody ever said you could run 350whp on stock internals for very long...

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post #24 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 02:53 PM
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Which is why I'm building an engine. Currently around 300whp, once the new engine is done (think loooooooooooong term 3+ years), I'm aiming for 400+ to the wheels.

We'll see how the trans likes that

-Chris
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post #25 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 04:14 PM
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Just remember, that $4500 price that gets thrown around for PPG's assumes your case is in good shape. If you brake more than just a gear, it's going to add some more cost. For example, the front diff ain't free.

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post #26 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm.. I also have to consider down time as this is my only vehicle and I need it to commute to and from work and school 7 days a week. Maybe I should start a beater fund before I get into any serious wrenching... what's the absolute cheapest car to own and maintain?

That little devil on my shoulder keeps whispering to me to build it bigger and badder. Gotta think about this one for a while.

John
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post #27 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 11:54 PM
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post #28 of 36 Old 09-22-2010, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mosc View Post
Just remember, that $4500 price that gets thrown around for PPG's assumes your case is in good shape. If you brake more than just a gear, it's going to add some more cost. For example, the front diff ain't free.
Two things here. First off Mosc is right about that "base" price. $6500 for my clutch/flywheel, front lsd, gears, fluids and miscellaneous parts and labor. And second, there are other (and plenty of them) options other than PPGs. I used to think that thats all there was. Until I started doing alot of researching, alot of calling and emaling around. I will admit that PPGs are probably the "easiest" to get, as Andrewtech has them there with them (I got my direct from the manufacturer in Australia) but that doesnt make them the one and only (or best) chioce.

John sorry for going OT, just wanted to chime in on that bit of info, gives you and others something to think about.

Joshua
"2007 WRX- PPG'd, 20G- Tim Bailey tuned
Stage 2 2005 WRX
Cobbtuning.com"
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post #29 of 36 Old 09-24-2010, 11:04 AM
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Yeah I'd expect at least six grand for a proper tranmission build.....

Out here, there's a good enough guy at a dealership that you order the gears, and he'll put them in, and very well. Now just doing the gears moves the weak link to the diff's and axles. If you want to do it right, get gears, input shaft, clutch/fly, axles, and front diff. I'm even going to do my drive shaft while I'm at it... Saves about 20lbs going aluminum.

-Chris
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post #30 of 36 Old 09-24-2010, 01:42 PM
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^^ Your max speed is gone with one of those... or so i've heard.

EDIT:Is it considered sprung or unsprung weight ?

Kinda bit of both I guess.

Paul
2002 WRX Sold
2007 WRX Sold
2007 STi totaled
2007 Foz XT sold
2007 MS3

Last edited by pzr2874; 09-24-2010 at 03:20 PM.
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