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Dyno Tuned 18G @ GODSPEED

4K views 6 replies 3 participants last post by  REXronald 
#1 ·
well, suppose this could go in power forum too... either/or

Anyways, I'm back from vacation... (my home laptop is shot, i can't get online at all anymore from home)...

While on vacation i spent a day at GODSPEED in michigan and have to say it was a super great experience and my car is now running as it should be...

Made 292 WHP at 6220 RPM's and 265 WTQ at 4550 RPMs on Pump gas 93 octane... car is like night and day as it was super rich when i pulled in.... first dyno run (un-tuned) was 228HP... and confirmed the super-rich settings at 10.5:1.

So as you can imagine... it now feels lightening-quick to me, idles and runs at WOT much better and accelerates much more smoothly and the power band is much more linear.

Very pleased with the results, did not tune with race gas since BOV is stocker and won't hold over 20 psi, (and i passed the exit to buy race gas at on my way there)....

As it turns out (its a small world)... one of Godspeeds mechanics (Mike) is my best man/best friend's 1st cousin.... and we go way back on mutual friends/acquaintances... which was very cool. He's a nice guy, knows his WRX/Subaru boxer engine like the back of his hand, and i learned a bunch of stuff from him while i was there....

also a big thanks to Dan at Godspeed, the tuning master... he tuned the bumps out and all is running well with the car now. I highly recommend their services for dyno and even just mechanical work if you lack the now-how and means to do it yourself.

Dynopack dyno is very cool to watch in action, and wow does 19 psi on a turbo sitting stationary sound way cool... sounds like a small jet engine SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHH then i go 'wow, that sounds cool as FU@&!!!!'


eveyone back home is impressed with the get-up and go of the car and its noticeable increase in power...

word to the TXS Wise... their stage 4 map is not great.... i can only assume it designed as a very basic set such that the car runs safely on it pig rich and you absolutely need to further tune the map for use in your stage 4 car.... so from that point it was acceptable to get me to michigan, but don't be asking your car to perform at all on the map... i would get to 4000 rpm in 3rd, if i went WOT at that point the car somehow was jumping cels or load points or something. And it jerked and pulled and hesitated really hardcore... (thought the car was broken when it was doing that)....

This was the stage 4 TXS map for revision 4.2 software.... the 2.5 version and stage 4 map they had out there before ran fine in my car and was pretty fast... albeit not tuned for max HP, at least it ran the car acceptably and performed when called upon. Stage 4 for the 4.2 revision runs about as good as a 'limp mode'.
 
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#3 ·
Cosmo said:
That's why they are called "base maps". But, I would have expected a little more. Something in the 325 range. What kind of dyno do they use?

Keep reading Cos! lol!


"Dynopack dyno is very cool to watch in action, and wow does 19 psi on a turbo sitting stationary sound way cool... sounds like a small jet engine SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHH then i go 'wow, that sounds cool as FU@&!!!!' "
 
#5 ·
more HP

yeah, this is true.... cars are making about 315 WHP at 20 psi as an average with the 18G setup on pump gas... on a dynapack dyno... from what i've seen anyways....

my only guess is less than perfect compression in my driver side cylinder due to that TGV problem.... i was running pretty much too hot on that side and didn't know it for a good little while.... the passenger side #3 header pipe is where i tapped for the EGT, and that side was getting starved of intake at WOT since the TGV was closed and broken. and the driver side was getting thromped with air and i had no idea, the egt's looked ok on the gauge because #3 was running rich and gasping for more air....

So maybe that had something to do with it... not to mention it was over 90 degrees in the shop... but that shouldn't make a difference since most shops are pretty warm when dyno tuning anyways.... maybe the cheap paper intake filter i am using ate up a couple of HP.... but 292 seemed to be the repeatable figure at 19psi.

Worth noting.... after hitting 292... we sprayed the CO2 on a the next run.... and the intake (since the hood was open) must have been sucking up a bunch of the CO2 that was venting cause it hit at 25HP LESS .... ran it again without CO2.... boom, hit 292 again.........

So i wouldn't suggest spending any $$$ on CO2 unless you know of some fabulous way to isolate the vent from the intake.... and i don't know how that would be done.
 
#6 ·
$$$

paid $400... we did numerous runs.... i was out scooting around with Mike for awhile so i wasn't there when he started tuning... but first Mike spent about an hour testing for boost leaks (and isolating and eliminating a big leak i had at the blow-by connection on top of the valve cover) and getting it setup on the dyno.

then we left for awhile... probably was on the dyno for couple of hours and another 30+ minutes of road testing and tuning. i physically watched about 4 or 5 pulls on the dyno... when i showed back up it was at 280 WHP.... topped out at 292.

i'm not dissappointed since i was truely concerned and expecting the very worst when i went in. I was almost sure i had seriously damaged the engine due to the TGV debacle and would only make 180 WHP and find out for sure that my engine was worth nothing more than an oversized paperweight.

So to make almost 300 at the wheels on 93 octane at 19psi was a big relief for me... it says my car is operating at least near its full efficiency, if not quite there. And besides.... i also ended up over the biggest hump, which was this... if the engine was shot, and i bought a new forged block, how the heck was i gonna install it.... but now that i met Mike and he know's what's up, i have a connection to help me get the install done if and when i do buy the forged block and heads. Which is a relief.
 
#7 · (Edited)
sorry to flood this thread...

but did do some more searching around... i did find a post by Nathan (who pretty much heads up the tuning at TXS)....

he posts

"All numbers are on a stock block WRX with stock heads, cams, manifolds, etc. The car is running our exhaust system, our up-pipe, 600cc injectors, 255l/h fuel pump, our FMIC, an intake, 20G, and a UTEC ecu.

19psi = 325whp (pump)
24psi = 350whp (pump gas, we had peak runs of 362whp, but it was a bit on the edge)
27psi = 403whp (c16) "


Considering this was a 20G and made 325 whp on pump at 19 psi... its probably out of the range to expect an 18G to do the same.

The only reason i didn't get a 20G was due to still running STi pink injectors, and felt that they would just not hold up to the 20G... of course, i am dumb since i could have just got the darn 20G, ran it at 17 psi on the those injectors and just waited to get a bigger set of injectors...

Now i'm screwed, cause i'll probably want a 20G, and will have to go throught the whole turbo swap business again and pay for a whole other turbo and dyno tune again once i get the 20G....

well heck with that... i'm gonna skip the 20G, get an FPgreen and be done with it... anybody wanna buy a brand new 18G? ported and polished... hehe... JK. I gotta wait at least a year to do that.


OK...here's a post from NASIOC...

" FIS and my new 18G!!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok, 1stly, my hat goes off to Steve, Rick & Jason.....
AWESOME job...

Had my FP 18G install, got her back today...

293 AWHP@6000 RPM
272 Torque @5250RPM
Hits right at about 3700 RPM, slightly laggyier than a VF34, but SO MUCH MORE....
at 18 PSI.....all on 93 Octane

Steve says around 320-340AWHP tuned on Race Gas...


i'm thinking this is at least around the going 18G rate.... which makes sense.. some cars run a bit stronger than others, despite being the same make and model, and obviously we've got different variables all over the place like humidity, temparature, octane quality, etc....
 
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