Check Engine Light @ 11,600 mi - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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#1 Old 02-25-2008, 05:17 PM
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Check Engine Light @ 11,600 mi

My Mods:
K&N Panel Filter
Cobb Catted Downpipe
HKS Carbon-Ti Cat Back
Cobb AP Stage 2 93 Octane OTS Map
Perrin Light Weight Crank Pulley

CEL Codes:
P1518 – Starter Switch Circuit Low Input
P0852 – Neutral Switch Input Circuit High
P1153 – O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (High) (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1152 – O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Low) (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0502 – Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0503 – Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High

So my check engine light came on three times now in the past week. I used my Cobb AP to check/clear it and these six codes came up all three times. I thought having the Cobb stage 2 map would prevent check engine lights from happening in the first place, but I might be wrong. I consulted a local tuner and he advised me to unmarry my AP completely from the car and take it to a dealer. I think he suspected a power supply relay problem or some kind of problem with my battery and/or electric system. Maybe my voltage is dropping too low? The CEL came on shortly after I upgraded my downpipe and flashed to stage 2 with my AP. I made an appointment with my dealer and I'm dropping the car off tonight for a professional check-up. I'm curious what they have to say. Anybody have any guesses?

John
07 WRX (Albins 5MT + Blouch 20G)
Jorge Carrillo Tuned (365 whp/340 wtq)
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#2 Old 02-25-2008, 05:50 PM
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humm i have heard of exhaust systmes messing with the light so maybe its the ap not working properly.

tho i am sure that ## check up will tell u ## mods are doing it....

i might be wrong tho
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#3 Old 02-25-2008, 06:16 PM
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Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a while then connecting it back in? Do you have a upgraded sound system, subwoofers? You could probably be pumping to much juice if you are you should look into getting a capacitor to prevent your battery from getting drained. I wouldnt recommend going to the dealer unless you realy realy have to there not to mod friendly.
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#4 Old 02-25-2008, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfelix818 View Post
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a while then connecting it back in? Do you have a upgraded sound system, subwoofers?
Yep. By disconnecting the battery for a bit and pumping the brakes, I think all you're doing is resetting the ecu. My AP can do that too.

Nope. I don't have subwoofers, just the stock sound system.

I'm just gonna take it in and see what the dealer has to say. If they claim the downpipe and cat back are causing electrical problems I'm gonna refuse all work there and take it somewhere else. I also might email Cobb and see if they have had anybody else experience those same set of codes. Maybe they can help. Who knows. I'll try to keep everyone updated.

John
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#5 Old 02-25-2008, 06:50 PM
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By getting all those electrical codes I'd say you tuner might be correct.

Mike
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#6 Old 02-25-2008, 07:07 PM
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Check the O2 sensor wires running to the DP? See if they are pulling down on the wires coming from your tranny.

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#7 Old 02-25-2008, 10:04 PM
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they will says its from the mods b/c the sensors has gone bad... anything they can do to getouta free work!
its like if u put a exhaust on anther car with out a ecu ## check engine light comes on due to the sensor not working properly ... now im thinking it does the same on the suby ( i could be wrong tho if anyone knows for sure please tell me. ) so if the ap isnt working properly for some reason then u would be getting a bad sensor thus turning on ## engine light.

so when u take it to the dealer im guessing they will say something along those lines....
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#8 Old 02-26-2008, 07:17 PM
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Well, here's the good news: this trip to the dealer didn't cost me a penny (except gas I guess). Surprisingly, they didn't mention anything about my aftermarket parts. They just said they couldn't run the proper diagnostics on it because I had cleared the check engine light and erased all of the freeze frame data - which happened because I used my AP to clear the CEL, reset the ECU, and then I flashed back to the stock map and uninstalled the AP before I brought it in. I told them I had the codes read for free at Auto Zone and then cleared the ECU myself by disconnecting the battery. I suppose it was a little helpful that I gave them a list of the codes I threw, and based on that, they suspected that my battery had gone dead at some point - which I'm not so sure about because I never had to jump start it. It had been cranking a little slower than usual lately, but I suspect that's due to the really cold weather we've been having. Also, they said that it could have occurred due to some recent work where my key was left in the "on" position for a period of time. Obviously, I had to do this briefly when installing my AP - maybe they were trying to get me to admit that I had it? I just told them, "Nope, no recent work." I found this question to be a little odd, considering that my check engine light came on while I was accelerating on the highway in 3rd and 4th gear - how could having my key in the "on" position for a little while have caused the CEL to be thrown at a much later time while I was driving? Oh well... at least they didn't discover my AP. I'm wondering though, what's the worst that could happen if the CEL comes on again and I bring the car in just how it is - with the Cobb Stage 2 map on it? Maybe they'll just deny all warranty work and I'll end up having to pay out of my own pocket for them to fix the problem. But if the problem gets fixed and I can safely run the Stage 2 map without any check engine lights, that would be great. Hmm...

Other thoughts:
- Maybe I have a bad O2 sensor
- When I installed my Perrin crank pulley, if I made the belts a little too loose or too tight, could that have caused the CEL?
- Should I try a different kind of gas (I've been using Shell 93 Octane)?
- I wonder if the K&N panel air filter could be causing problems (possibly if it's dirty? but it's relatively new.. so I doubt that's it)

I can't really think of anything else right now. Oh well, maybe I'll just take it easy for a while and see what happens. Thanks to everyone who read and posted!

John
07 WRX (Albins 5MT + Blouch 20G)
Jorge Carrillo Tuned (365 whp/340 wtq)
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#9 Old 02-27-2008, 04:19 PM
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the K&N shouldn't cause a CEL, it's just a replacement filter, we have them in ALL of our cars at home and we have driven them when they turn blacker than a compton night and they don't throw a CEL. If the CEL turns off sometimes than it might be a sensor going bad. We unplugged the MAF from my friends Scion tC a few days ago to see what it wuld do, and it would die after starting haha, and then it threw a CEL, and we were scared , but after a little while it went away

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#10 Old 02-27-2008, 04:38 PM
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Are your green test connectors together under the dash?The 06+ have two of them.The other set is in the passenger kick panel.

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#11 Old 02-27-2008, 05:43 PM
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Hmm... well I know for sure that the two green connectors under the driver's side dash are disconnected. I never looked for the set under the passenger kick panel. I would assume they came from the factory disconnected, but maybe I'll take a look if I have a little spare time this weekend. I also want to do the keyless entry mod where you rearrange some wires so you can push the unlock button once to unlock all 4 doors at the same time instead of having to press it twice. I find that to be such an inconvenience.

Mod WRX Keyless entry one button - ScoobyMods

Anybody do this one yet?
(I think I just jacked my own thread)

John
07 WRX (Albins 5MT + Blouch 20G)
Jorge Carrillo Tuned (365 whp/340 wtq)
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