ok, well i guess my frequent braking is hurting me. yeah i'm sure i speed much more than i'd like to think. i've had too many tickets for it to be worth it anymore though. the cops have a lot better things to do in cali than they do here...i spent a few years there and 80 was just the normal cruising speed for traffic on any freeway. it's not so good here, and driver's suck, but i have a valentine one so that helps.
my point about all those seemingly unconnected parts was that my hard driving (not just braking, but that's a part of it) loosen up the car. from my experience japanese cars "loosen up" over there lifetimes more than other brands. i've only owned japanese cars and wouldn't have it any other way but they all develop some creaks and groans eventually. thank god they sell more structural stiffening mods for the wrx than i could ever afford......i see how that made no sense at all in my last post. i just write my thoughts and expect everyone to understand what's going on in my messed up head.
Cali drivers are by far the very very worst i have every experienced. and I've been a few places. as for the cops, the just cant catch me (kidding).
I don't want to knock you off your pedestal or anything but i would be willing to bet a substantial sum you could use more experience. I don't even consider myself a good driver, just better then average. and ask ANYBODY here, I don't mind tooting my own horn. plus, 90% of all American drivers license holders cant drive for shit. even if you *think* its fast. Its probably not fast. better to confront the problem thinking there is an issue with the car, and not that your simply beating the shit out it. speaking of of tooting ones own horn, my cousin here; YouTube - Formula Drift Atlanta In-Car YouTube - Drift Atlanta V
drives a bone stock M3 on the street. not all that new either. but there ain't shit rattling. Nor is he having issues with it "loosening up" or feel he should be purchasing "structural stiffening mods" (which i believe they have a pill for).
and don't worry about not being clear in a post first time out.
Last edited by mosc : 05-14-2008 at 02:56 AM.
Reason: ... sigh, I'm really not going to put up with this forever you know....
i'm not saying it's just because they're japanese, it's mostly because i beat the shit out of them. i drive hard, really hard, and don't really care. i'm not some dumbass kid, i just love to have fun and i understand the consequences. you gotta pay to play right? my car rattles because of the many times i've raced around our dirt mountain roads that have plenty of washboard sections, rockey sections etc. i've already bent both front struts on my rex banging into washes and shit on dirt roads. since replacing them i try to stay away from the dirt roads. unfortunately all 4 of my wheels are also bent......most don't understand, they look at me funny when i say crashing is fun.....i've wised up though, i bought a $500 honda so i can crash it to my heart's content. and i apologize if someone has lost anyone to a car crash, i'm not trying to imply that's a good thing. none of my many crashes have involved other cars or people. if i die behind the wheel, no one else is going to be around.
now i'm not claiming that i don't need more experience, who doesn't right? i also believe myself to be a better than average driver, but know there are millions of better ones out there. i teach driving and talk about it all the time and try to put into practice what i learn. (flame on, i know, why should i be teaching kids to drive right? well i don't teach them to drive like me.)
i also have a good buddy with a stock 2002 M3 who thinks he's a drifter, and his car doesn't rattle either. i also worked at a VW/Subaru dealership and those cars seemed to stay a bit stiffer than the subarus. what i really meant to say i guess is that german cars seem to stay more solid throughout their lifetimes. But i'm sure if i owned one i'd have that thing rattling in no time. so you're probably 100% right, i've just never had the chance to own a german car.
oh and feel free to knock me off my pedestal. if i knew more about this stuff than you i'd be happy to return the favor heehee. self awareness is always a good thing right? makes us keep getting faster.
No man you were totally right, like you said all the wear and tear and dents and dings on my car are my fault and I take full responsibility for them. I was just explaining the way I look at vehicles and I think I take them less seriously than most. Don't get me wrong, I love my WRX and hate to look at the body pieces I mess up. That's why I repair them. It's expensive but it's a choice I make. I feel that to find the limits you must sometimes exceed them. Others choose not to take it to that level, but that's where I'm at. To each his own, variety is the spice of life and I wouldn't want it to be any different.
Just curious; there's two aspects of the transmission being talked about here: 1.) Which is best from a gas mileage standpoint (obviously no throttle in gear will use less than neutral), and 2.) Methods that are easier on the transmission.
My question is what is the proper way to shift back into first in the event that you do need to make an abrupt 45-60mph stop? How long will a neutral / clutch-in transmission take to spin back down to speeds appropriate for a 1st gear launch again? I'm just wondering because I've often had moments where I didn't have time to properly downshift through gears, and want to be as nice to my transmission as humanly possible. Thanks in advance!
^ I'd say to downshift as fast as possible. If you're slamming on the brakes, in the time and distance it will take you to stop from the mph you listed above you should be able to downshift, even if you need to skip a gear it is still the best way. I wouldn't just pop it in N and slam on the brakes. Use heel toe or rev matching also...I use both in my regular daily driving. I hardly ever downshift without using those techniques. With practice you should be able to do it within the time it takes to brake from 45-60mph.
Maybe i read this wrong, are you saying that if im driving my car at 45 mph and put it in N and stop really fast, than i cant put it in 1st fast cause my tranny is still spinning, the only thing in my tranny that is going to be spinning is the input shaft and the input shaft gears that are free spinning from the output shaft gears, and the output shaft gears will not be spinning anymore the sec you come to a stop, and the tranny is only going to be spinning as fast as the engine RPM's are going to be at, when your stopped,
Just curious; there's two aspects of the transmission being talked about here: 1.) Which is best from a gas mileage standpoint (obviously no throttle in gear will use less than neutral), and 2.) Methods that are easier on the transmission.
My question is what is the proper way to shift back into first in the event that you do need to make an abrupt 45-60mph stop? How long will a neutral / clutch-in transmission take to spin back down to speeds appropriate for a 1st gear launch again? I'm just wondering because I've often had moments where I didn't have time to properly downshift through gears, and want to be as nice to my transmission as humanly possible. Thanks in advance!
dont worry about the transmission speed. just keep the car in a gear that is adequate for your current speed. if you have trouble grabbing the next gear down, just give it a bigger blip. it might be a bit jerkey but you will be in gear, which is more important.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longshot
^ I'd say to downshift as fast as possible. If you're slamming on the brakes, in the time and distance it will take you to stop from the mph you listed above you should be able to downshift, even if you need to skip a gear it is still the best way. I wouldn't just pop it in N and slam on the brakes. Use heel toe or rev matching also...I use both in my regular daily driving. I hardly ever downshift without using those techniques. With practice you should be able to do it within the time it takes to brake from 45-60mph.
correct. even if you are under heavy braking you should be downshifting. for clarification;
heal toe shifting entails rev matching
rev matching does not always entail heal toe
but you should always be heal toe shifting. there is really no reason not too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VD5505
Maybe i read this wrong, are you saying that if im driving my car at 45 mph and put it in N and stop really fast, than i cant put it in 1st fast cause my tranny is still spinning, the only thing in my tranny that is going to be spinning is the input shaft and the input shaft gears that are free spinning from the output shaft gears, and the output shaft gears will not be spinning anymore the sec you come to a stop, and the tranny is only going to be spinning as fast as the engine RPM's are going to be at, when your stopped,
correct me if im wrong, but if you sit still with the car in neutral and your foot on the clutch, the gears will eventually stop rotating? i know this is true in some transmissions but not 100% on ours.
yea your right if you sit there with your foot in on the clutch there will be no moving parts in the tranny, i cant believe this thread is still going lol
I can't believe it either, but I'll contribute to the problem. Since learning all this stuff on the tranny I have been double clutching down through all the gears before coming to a stop. I always heel-toe downshifted when I made turns or needed a lower gear, but had been a little out of practice with the double clutch. At first it was pretty jerky and I was worried about tranny/drivetrain wear, but now it's very smooth. I know practice has a lot to do with it, but maybe the learning ECU is helping me out as well (not sure if that has anything to do with it). For all those who coast in neutral, I recommend trying this method. It seems awkward at first but then becomes second nature.
I don't really go "down through the gears" when coasting to a stop. Even 5th can go down to <10mph and still idle cleanly. At that point I'll just put in the clutch and come to a stop. You really only need to be in the "right" gear under acceleration. They'll all do fine for decelerating, just take your foot off the gas.
only reason why im always in an appropriate gear is so i have good acceleration instantly available if i need it. that and the drive line will help with deceleration more if you are in a lower gear.
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