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How to: Clutch's
Helping a buddy out with his clutch and I've never changed one in a newer model. Wasn't sure where to start so I went looking. found a fantastic guide. I'm sure it's a little different between models. Just a base of information.
[B]How to Replace a Clutch (Transmission Removal, Driveway Method) For the GD[/B]
This procedure was performed on a MY06 STi with some modifications which may or may not be relevant for the purposes of this How-To. This procedure is only ONE way of removing the transmission and is not meant to be the be-all method. This is a DIY on your driveway process only. If you have access to a lift, this would be the preferred and safest method.
Perform this procedure [B]AT YOUR OWN RISK.[/B]
This procedure allows you to remove the transmission from a Subaru STI for the purpose of gaining access to the clutch and flywheel system for inspection and or replacement
This procedure allows you to remove the transmission without the benefit of a lift and is meant as a DIY for the weekend warrior. This is by no means a simple or easy procedure and it requires a good deal of strength.[B] IT IS RECOMMENDED YOU HAVE A FRIEND THERE TO HELP[/B]. You will need a second pair of hands at times.
I would put this at a skill level of 9 or 10.
Estimated time to completion: Allow [B][I]two[/I][/B] days total.
1. It is recommended that you have a heavy set of leather gloves handy when removing the transmission to prevent injury to your hand.
2. When underneath the car, ware safety glasses.
3. When using jack stands and car jacks, follow all manufacturer safety procedures
4. If you don’t know your way around the tool box then you have no business even thinking about doing this. Bring it to a shop.
1. Four (4) jack stands
2. Two (2) floor jacks
3. Transmission Jack adapter for your floor jack ([I]or an engine hoist, I will explain later[/I])
[I]Warning: Do not attempt this procedure without one or the other[/I]
4. 10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm wrenches
5. 10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm sockets and ratchet wrench and desired extensions.
6. Flat blade screwdriver
8. Pry bars
9. Breaker bar
10. 14mm hex key socket (10mm on some older models)
11. Torque wrench
With car on the ground
1. Remove Neg (-) battery cable. (10mm wrench) Fig 1
2. If using engine hoist method for this procedure, remove the hood. (12mm socket)
3. If installed, remove your strut tower brace. Removal of strut tower brace will vary depnding on type (12mm socket) Fig 2
4. Remove your BOV or BPV. (12mm wrench, pliers for removing hose clamp from BPV) Fig 3
5. Remove your intercooler. (12mm socket, flat screwdriver) Fig 4, 5, 6
6. Remove Intercooler brackets. (12mm socket) Fig 7, 8
7. Remove all visible turbo bolts. I recommend soaking these with penetrating oil 24 hours prior to removal (14mm socket) Fig 9
8. Remove the pitch stop. (14mm socket & wrench) Fig 10
9. Remove electrical connections to transmission. Fig 11
10. Remove grounding lead. Fig 12
11. Remove passenger side upper transmission bolts. (14mm socket) Fig 13
12. Remove engine ground. (12mmsocket) Fig 14
13. Remove positive (+) lead and solenoid lead from starter. (12mm wrench) Fig 15. As an option you may choose to leave the wires attached and simply set aside the starter when removed. I remove the wires simply because it allows you to get the starter out of the way completely.
14. Remove upper starter bolt. (14mm socket) Fig 16
15. Remove lower starter bolt. (14mm socket & wrench) Fig 17
16. Remove slave cylinder and set aside. (14mm socket) Fig 18
17. Remove clutch fork shaft access plug. (14mm hex) Fig 19
18. Remove clutch fork shaft by installing a 6mm bolt and pulling outward. Fig 20
19. Release the fork from the bearing by lifting and pushing back simultaneously. Fig 21
[B]Lift the car and set on four (4) jack stands. Set to highest height.[/B]
1. Remove remaining turbo bolt (14mm wrench) No Picture
2. Unplug rear O2 sensor <or> Optional: remove O2 sensor. Fig 22
3. Remove downpipe center support bolt. (14mm socket) Fig 23
4. Unbolt downpipe - center pipe union, remove downpipe (14mm socket & wrench) Fig 24
5. Unbolt center pipe – rear pipe union, remove center pipe. (14mm socket & wrench) Fig 25
6. Detach sway bar end link from lower control arm, both sides. (14mm socket & wrench) Fig 26
7. Remove cotter pin from ball joint nut, remove nut. Both sides (flat screwdriver, pliers, 19mm socket) Fig 27
7A. Remove the two bolts from the lower control arm that connect it to the rear bushing. Both sides. (14mm?? + BreakerBar) Fig 27A
8. Compress the suspension using a jack, push downward on the lower control arm to separate from wheel hub assembly. Fig 28
9. Separate drive shaft from transmission by prying between CV joint and transmission housing. (Pry bar) Fig 29. For older models, the shafts are held in place with a pin. You will need to drive the pin out with a punch. This step is really optional. I do this to gain more access to the clutch once the ransmission is out of the way.
10. Drain the transmission fluid. (14mm socket) Fig 30
11. Unbolt center propeller shaft from rear propeller shaft. (14mm socket) Fig 31
12. Remove center shaft bearing. Remove center propeller shaft from transmission and set aside. (14mm socket) Fig 32
13. Remove transmission mounting brackets from the body of the car. (14mm, 17mm socket) Fig 33. Be advised that the transmission will move down but it will remain in place. It is still bolted to the engine with the four remaining transmission bolts.
14. Remove the shifter support and linkage. (14mm, 12mm, pliers) Fig 34
15. Remove Transmission…
15a. (Transmission jack or jack attachment method) Using a jack and transmission jack attachment, raise the jack to the transmission. Use a second jack and raise it to the engine oil pan to support the engine. Use a piece of wood between the jack and oil pan to distribute the weight of the engine and prevent damage to the oil pan. Remove the four remaining transmission bolts, both sides. (14mm socket) Fig 35. Separate the transmission from the engine.
15b. (Engine hoist method) I found this to be the superior method. Using a jack, raise the jack to the rear of the transmission. Replace the bolt into the pitch stop mount on the front of the transmission. Attach a strap around the bolt then attach the other end to the hoist. Raise the hoist to apply tension on the transmission. Use a second jack and raise it to the engine oil pan to support the engine. Use a piece of wood between the jack and oil pan to distribute the weight of the engine and prevent damage to the oil pan. Remove the four remaining transmission bolts, both sides. (14mm socket) Fig 35. Separate the transmission from the engine. The transmission will be suspended by the hoist. Lower it to the ground. deebsr6 had a cool idea here. When he lowered the transmission, instead of lowering it to the ground he lowered it onto a skateboard. This was awesome because you could simple roll the thing out of the way.
[B]**Note[/B]: it is sometimes difficult to separate the transmission from the engine due to tight or corroded guide pins. One solution was found by hockeynut258. after many days of toiling with this, he applied localized heat to the surrounding area and out it came. Reference Thread.
16. Remove the clutch (12mm socket) Fig 36
Installation is the same in reverse for most of this procedure.
1. Prior to installing the transmission, install the throw out bearing and fork assembly onto the transmission first. Reference Fig 37
2. When installing the clutch please use a clutch alignment tool to ensure proper alignment of the clutch with the input shaft of the transmission during installation. See Fig 38
2. When installing a new clutch, follow the manufacturer instructions and torque the bolts to 11.8 ft/lbs. Tighten in sequence a little at a time to allow even compression of the springs. See Fig 39
3. When the transmission has finally been mated with the engine and secured, you may push the fork toward the firewall to engage the throw out bearing with the clutch plate.
[B]**[B]Note[/B]:[/B] Some notes about greasing the clutch moving parts can be reviewed here.
[B]**Note[/B] When installing the half shafts, these can be difficult and requires good leverage and a quick hard motion to snap them back into place. Align them with the spline and move the lower control arm out of the way. Gain some leverage and quickly push the shaft into the spline till it snaps in and seats flush with the tranny. This is not necessary for the pin type shafts.
That's it... Go have a beer cause you deserve it !!!
All credit for this guide goes to HolyCrapItsFast from IWSTI forums. I take no credit towards this guide. A link is posted below for the full thread. Also includes pictures for those who are in need of "I learn via visual" not you told me a bango bolt not a bucket of steam! Good read and alot of good information.
[url=http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/189630-how-replace-clutch-transmission-removal-driveway-method-gd.html]How to Replace a Clutch (Transmission Removal, Driveway Method)(GD) - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com[/url]
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