Clutch Questions- adjustment? - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 05-19-2014, 10:38 AM
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Does anybody know what exactly the ecu "learns"? Is there any way to turn that feature off? From what the dealership told me when I bought the car it has something to do with cruise control, but I could def do without it since I never use it anyways

-Miguelito
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#17 Old 05-19-2014, 01:50 PM
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ECU Learning is how the car adjusts to its particular environment, Without that learning people would experience a much higher knock rate and in many cases without ECU learning even a small ammount of overboost would cause distructive AFR. ECU learning is something that people typically want to train for better output, not shut down or remove. The correlation between cruise control and ECU learning is that the dealership reccomend not using cruise control during the first few hundred miles so the ECU can learn what parameters it needs across the map rather than just at 3,000 rpm. If you feel like the ECU is learning "bad habits" and making your vehicle slower then there could be all kinds of problems behind the scenes that you should keep and eye out for. Now is a great time to talk to your tuner and pull some logs.

To answer your question the ECU reads hundreds of parameters per second and adjusts things like Air fuel ratio and boost to do 3 things, First and foremost to protect the engine, the ECU will respond to things like excessive temps, odd readings on sensors, changes in driver input and can do things like retarding timing limiting your total power to protect from knock after-burning and pre-det. Second it adjusts to external changes like poor quality of fuel and a dirty air filter to make sure things continue running smoothly and safely. Finally so long as the ECU feels safe it will slowly (over 50-200 miles)advance timing, in effect increasing power output up to a predetermined maximum.

IMHO you dont want to "turn off" ECU learning. it learns to make your car safer and more reliable and if you feel like the ECU reset made things better I would pull a few logs ASAP and get a view of whats going on inside the ECU, It wouldn't limit your power output just for the hell of it, those changes come with a reason and a few logs should help you and your tuner figure out why your ECU is making those kinds of learned changes. It could be as simple as a bad fuels, a shot O2 sensor or a boost leak. That said the log will lead the way to a solution.

I hope that helps

Jason
13 WRX Hatch
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#18 Old 05-19-2014, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticscythe View Post
ECU Learning is how the car adjusts to its particular environment, Without that learning people would experience a much higher knock rate and in many cases without ECU learning even a small ammount of overboost would cause distructive AFR. ECU learning is something that people typically want to train for better output, not shut down or remove. The correlation between cruise control and ECU learning is that the dealership reccomend not using cruise control during the first few hundred miles so the ECU can learn what parameters it needs across the map rather than just at 3,000 rpm. If you feel like the ECU is learning "bad habits" and making your vehicle slower then there could be all kinds of problems behind the scenes that you should keep and eye out for. Now is a great time to talk to your tuner and pull some logs.

To answer your question the ECU reads hundreds of parameters per second and adjusts things like Air fuel ratio and boost to do 3 things, First and foremost to protect the engine, the ECU will respond to things like excessive temps, odd readings on sensors, changes in driver input and can do things like retarding timing limiting your total power to protect from knock after-burning and pre-det. Second it adjusts to external changes like poor quality of fuel and a dirty air filter to make sure things continue running smoothly and safely. Finally so long as the ECU feels safe it will slowly (over 50-200 miles)advance timing, in effect increasing power output up to a predetermined maximum.

IMHO you dont want to "turn off" ECU learning. it learns to make your car safer and more reliable and if you feel like the ECU reset made things better I would pull a few logs ASAP and get a view of whats going on inside the ECU, It wouldn't limit your power output just for the hell of it, those changes come with a reason and a few logs should help you and your tuner figure out why your ECU is making those kinds of learned changes. It could be as simple as a bad fuels, a shot O2 sensor or a boost leak. That said the log will lead the way to a solution.

I hope that helps
So if I'm understanding it right, the map you flash onto the ecu is not set, but flexible, and is fine-tuned by the learning feature. If I just reset my ecu, that means I shouldn't use the cruise control for a bit. Should I not get on it hard for the next 100-200 miles as well? Seems like the first 200 miles or so would be like a mini-break in for the ecu after a reset?
Also, what kind of effect would weather have on learning? Im in Cali, so the temps range from 30's in the winter to 105 in the summer.
The roughness until reset isn't new. I remember thinking how much smoother the car ran when I flashed to stage 1. Then the same feeling after I put the DP on and flashed to stage 2. Thats how I came up with the idea to reset ecu to make shifting better...

-Miguelito
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#19 Old 05-19-2014, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramm21 View Post
So if I'm understanding it right, the map you flash onto the ecu is not set, but flexible, and is fine-tuned by the learning feature. If I just reset my ecu, that means I shouldn't use the cruise control for a bit. Should I not get on it hard for the next 100-200 miles as well? Seems like the first 200 miles or so would be like a mini-break in for the ecu after a reset?
Also, what kind of effect would weather have on learning? Im in Cali, so the temps range from 30's in the winter to 105 in the summer.
The roughness until reset isn't new. I remember thinking how much smoother the car ran when I flashed to stage 1. Then the same feeling after I put the DP on and flashed to stage 2. Thats how I came up with the idea to reset ecu to make shifting better...
Exactly

The ECU learning function corrects for small changes in the vehicles environment, it is most definitely flexible. As for the cruise control it doesnt do any damage but it wouldn't count towards your "mini break-in" because the throttle position and quite a few of the related parameters would stay relatively static for almost all the miles your cruise. As a fellow Californian i totally hear where your coming from, just last weekend i drove from the sequoia national forest (25 Fahrenheit) down to Valencia (96 Fahrenheit) because the vehicle will be running in that wide range of conditions it wont make a huge difference in the way the ECU learns. If you feel like the engine is losing power as it learns then i would put down 2-3 logs over the next few days, do them on the same stretch of flat road if you can and i would do one in the morning one in the heat of the afternoon and one in the evening just so you have clear values to compare. I still think you might have something going wrong if she runs good on a reset ECU but not after the ECU starts learning.

Jason
13 WRX Hatch
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#20 Old 05-23-2014, 09:11 AM
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I blame my issue on a boost leak for a long period of time. After my stage 2 I missed a clamp on the IC. Also I babied it like crazy. It has been 600 miles after reflash and the car seems to idle, take off and go better through the RPMs. I have been getting on it a lot more and the response seems way better than before. I am also getting a slightly better MPG as well.

05 WRX Wagon - East Coast Swappers Protuned "Stage 4" w/Cobb AP
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#21 Old 05-24-2014, 09:49 AM
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Did you find the leak by logging a pull? I haven't had a chance to get out of town to do that. However, I did change my tranny fluid to the andrewtech cocktail yesterday. Shifting is a little smoother, but the biggest change is rolling at 5 mph and not lurching forward. I like!

I also came upon some interesting info on another forum. Basically our if you try to shift 1-2 really fast, it puts a lot of load on the back diff and it bangs on the crossmember. Lately I've been taking my time with the 1-2 shift and it's really helped. I'm also shifting at a little higher rpms in first to make up for that acceleration difference. After all this, I don't think my clutch has an issue, and I've learned a lot.

-Miguelito
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