I believe my clutch is on the way out. I was in 5th gear last night doing about 60 mph and when I tried to accelerate The tach went up but the speedo stayed the same for a few seconds and then started to accelerate. If indeed it sounds like the clutch , what is the best performance clutch for everyday performance without going crazy aggressive I have a 2006 wrx. All replies are welcom , Thanks
Correct - you should choose your clutch based on your goals/tq *not* hp. Also, the WRX loves the organic material clutches, try to stick with that. If you are stock, the Exedy OE are decently priced. For MY07, I went with the ACT SB5-HDSS. I am also Stage 2 with heavy considerations on an upgraded turbo.
I really appreciate it guys , very helpful. I want to be able to upgrade at some point in time , I want a clutch that will be able to handle slight modification , mainly street performance , not aggressive track use
When you mention "upgrade", what exactly are you looking to do? As I said, base your decision off your projected torque. From my research and readings, the stock clutch is able to hold a good amount, but my "I only want to remove this trans once..." mentality kicked in. Are you a stickler for pedal feel?
as far as upgrade , it is just my nature to replace a part with something better and stronger. I wouldnt mind being in the 300 torque range. I do appreciate the links
Any 02-07 WRX owner who is considering an upgraded clutch with a stock transmission should do more research. Stop, think, learn, and BUY A STOCK CLUTCH!
The WRX Stage 1 HD isn't that impressive...when compared to the STI version. But, yeah....stop, drop, and roll.....opps. I meant to follow Mosc's advice; because it is pretty well thought out. The gears really can't take a lot of abuse. Unless your name is Keith (psinuse)
Oh...he must have leprechauns in his transfer case, about 10 lucky rabbits feet hanging from his rearview mirror, and fills his transmission with the blood of christ. But the: blood, sweat, tears, hopes, and dreams are all coming together to keep his transmission together right now.
Yeah I have had a number of people go WTF how does that thing not just assplode? Truth be told I honestly think they are done it's just waiting for that moment when I truly don't need them to come apart, like merging on to a highway or trying to get to the hospital...
well clutch and new flywheel are in. Taking it easy on it for a while. Had to get used to at first , got it down after a few miles real responsive. Will let you know after a few 1000. Now I have to talk to a guy about some 225 / 45 /17 he cant use
That sucks. Mine went out too lucky i still have warranty. Try havin clutch go and the syncronizers too mine should b back home next week. I guess thats what happens when u buy used & ppl destroy it before u
Idk, I have seen many subies running them with no ill effect, me to be included. I have never had an issue but the chattering. If you can deal with it, I dont feel it a bad thing. But then again, anyone want to ride in a loud car, come ride with me. The quietest part is my exhaust, lol.
My apologies, I dont run a lightened crank pulley, yet. But yes I have seen both ran with no ill effect. Of course I dont know if CELs were deleted for them or not.
Hmmmmm....I was always under the belief that it wasn't a good idea. Well I suppose in theory it would just be a lighter rotational weight and should work.
Well I know of a few people that have suffered a higher rate of stalls using both pieces lightened. Also at the less amount of inertia could cause A/F spikes since the ECU has to make a quicker correction with the faster revving ability of the engine. I suppose you could tune that out, but I'm not to sure that would be the only issue. I'd be willing to put money on boosting issues as well. Something for me to research while at work tomorrow...
It all comes down to the weight of the flywheel. The ACT Prolite or race flywheel will create CELs from it being too light. The Streetlite isn't as light as the racing flywheels.
From what I was looking at:
Streetlite flywheels are 15-13.4 lbs
Prolite flywheels are 11.1-10.6 lbs.
OEM flywheels are 25 lbs from one website that actually stated the weight.
But, from I remember the 13 lb and higher flywheels don't throw off the knock sensor like the racing flywheels do. I'm running the resurfaced OEM flywheel because my rpms are quick as sh!t with out installing anything lightweight.
Good luck with that, I would like to know what you find out to be honest. I just know what I saw, and with less understanding that I will admit when I was looking at them at the time, lol.
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