Not really sure how this relates or helps but here's my contribution.
Having the right car dosent mean your ready for snow or Ice duty. Even all-season tires capable of light snow duty wont come close to cutting it. Most tires advertised as all-season are made as a compromise of dry,wet,and very light snow performance. Rubber reaches a critical crossover point below 45 degrees f. All-season compounds made to be soft and pliable in a wide range of temperatures can become brittle and lose compliance below 45 degrees. In near freezing conditions, the compound is already unable to provide adhesion-even if it has the appropriate tread design.
Put a car on ice and the story changes even more. Ice and snow traction are worlds apart, requiring completely different tires.For most rally stages that involve mud,dirt,water,slush, and snow, tires depend on compound and tread design to generate mechanical and adhesive grip. Tires with lots of sipes for biting edges in water will generate wet grip. Larger tread blocks and grooves give the biting edges needed for mud and water evacuation. Additional sipes give snow traction as it allows snow to pack in and provide the snow-to-snow interface, since snow sticks best to snow.
On ice adhesion goes out the window. While compounds have to remain soft in freezing temperatures, sipes,treadblocks, and compound friction do little to get a car moving. The only way to do this is studs and the mechanical grip from every time a stud punctures the ice. Treadblocks only provide somewhere for loose surface snow to be displaced into. Even on monster powered,flyweight, open-class ice machines, the tires are skinny, like gravel stage tires. Narrower tires are better for cutting through ice,water, and snow, and increase the pressure on each contact patch to let the studs dig deeper.