between Perrin, Whiteline and Rallitek whos sway bars are solid? more importantly i dont want hollow. also heard welded sways arnt the best either. i see Perrin welds theres together.
My Perrin's are solid, and they have the weight to prove it. The mounting points are welded on, but honestly a good weld will be just as strong as the rest of the bar.
I have heard of the old Perrin bars breaking, but I think since then they have gotten better. I have a set of Rallitek bars and endlinks going on my car, but wont be able to give feedback about them until october.
I have Cusco hollow chromolly 22mm fixed sway bar in the front and 22mm adjustable in the rear.
That's how much body roll I have:
I also have Perrin endlinks (F/R) and Whiteline sway bar bushings (F/R)
Both WHiteline and Perrin make great products (I honestly don't know about RalliTek), don't get married with one type of bar or the other, think about the weight and the material they're made of.
Chromolly is also extremely light weight and tough as nails. A lot of professional drag motorcycles build their frames with it. Because it is light weight and won't flex. I'd think it's pricey, but I don't know... how much did those sways run you fuapiti?
____________________________
Kirt
378awhp/373wtq Custom Dom 3 & CBRD tuned 2006 STI.
"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae
My Perrin's are solid, and they have the weight to prove it. The mounting points are welded on, but honestly a good weld will be just as strong as the rest of the bar.
maybe my eyes are playing tricks. at first it looked like the Perrin's were welded in 3 peices, but are they just welding on a washer to keep the bar from slidding around. there two on each end of the strait bar before the bends. i saw rallitek gives you something to bolt to the bar so when the bar shifts it hits the round thing you bolt down and stops it from slidding. im thinking Perrin is doing the same?
i honestly just want to stop body role and feel more planted. lots of people say they can hit turns now and the car feels better. like before could do 50mph and now can do 70mph in same turn.
theres a thread on nasioc about a companys springs. so far theres like 200 people or something with them and they say the ride is so much better and at the track its better. however this company didnt do true R&D like another did. what i mean is the other company has a "dyno". i call it a computek machine like they use for motorcycles. it measures the suspension of a car or bike and tells you pre load, dampening, spring rate ect ect the whole 9. they confirmed that they cant make a springs because the stock struts will blow. there 2 maxed out and if not right now, they will give problems down the road. one guy had all 4 blow but the dealer said it was a OEM defect! i find it hard to believe one car got ALL 4 struts defective at the same time on the same car!!
anywho. id love springs but i dont want to kill the performance of my ride just to have my car look better. the company that makes the springs also says DO NOT put a front sway bar on the car. only do a rear. anyone know why? whats wrong with putting the largest sways you can on your car front and rear?
Not sure what you want to call them but yes, the perrin bars do have a band around them that is welded in place to keep the bar centered. Lateral forces can cause the bar to shift and lose some of its spring.
I call bs on saying to not do a sway bar with springs.... sways have zero effect on the spring/strut setup besides keeping the contol arms more flat in a corner. Zero affect on ride quality, and yes my before and after was my car would plow through a certain corner anything over 55. Now I can take it at 70+ and feel like I'm driving miss daisy.
Chromolly is also extremely light weight and tough as nails. A lot of professional drag motorcycles build their frames with it. Because it is light weight and won't flex. I'd think it's pricey, but I don't know... how much did those sways run you fuapiti?
I remember paying around 150-160 for each one on ebay a few years back and one of them included the whiteline bushings. However, I've known of people paying more...
i honestly just want to stop body role and feel more planted. lots of people say they can hit turns now and the car feels better. like before could do 50mph and now can do 70mph in same turn.
theres a thread on nasioc about a companys springs. so far theres like 200 people or something with them and they say the ride is so much better and at the track its better. however this company didnt do true R&D like another did. what i mean is the other company has a "dyno". i call it a computek machine like they use for motorcycles. it measures the suspension of a car or bike and tells you pre load, dampening, spring rate ect ect the whole 9. they confirmed that they cant make a springs because the stock struts will blow. there 2 maxed out and if not right now, they will give problems down the road. one guy had all 4 blow but the dealer said it was a OEM defect! i find it hard to believe one car got ALL 4 struts defective at the same time on the same car!!
anywho. id love springs but i dont want to kill the performance of my ride just to have my car look better. the company that makes the springs also says DO NOT put a front sway bar on the car. only do a rear. anyone know why? whats wrong with putting the largest sways you can on your car front and rear?
If you want to STOP body roll, you will need both swaybars, however what you do want to stop is understeer, for this, having a bigger rear swaybar will o the trick.
It does get more complex than that. A good spring/strut combination will also help in reducing both, It most likely take a toll on comfort but if done right (correct spring rate/strut valving and stiffness/adjustability and even ride height) you will gain performance. Swapping springs alone usually ends up being not good at all if looks are not your only goal, if you are going after better handling you need to think about the whole suspension as a system.
I have heard of the old Perrin bars breaking, but I think since then they have gotten better. I have a set of Rallitek bars and endlinks going on my car, but wont be able to give feedback about them until october.
Speaking of perrin bars breaking, guess what I did today when I took a turn too hard this morning coming into work. I bent my rear sway bar. Thing is rusted out in the back. Told them when the paint started flaking 5 years ago, they said it would be fine. Yet another reason Perrin is permanently on my blacklist.
Update: Looks like Perrin is not the culprit. It probably was the only thing saving my vehicle. Snapped a lateral link and the bar was bent under the stress.
____________________________
Jon
"We live for a good time, not a long time."
RIP Colin McRae
Speaking of perrin bars breaking, guess what I did today when I took a turn too hard this morning coming into work. I bent my rear sway bar. Thing is rusted out in the back. Told them when the paint started flaking 5 years ago, they said it would be fine. Yet another reason Perrin is permanently on my blacklist.
Update: Looks like Perrin is not the culprit. It probably was the only thing saving my vehicle. Snapped a lateral link and the bar was bent under the stress.
lol over 5 years though in a salt/snow state?? thats sounds pretty good for just a piece of metal exposed to such harsh weather and stress. id be happy to get them to last that long.
to everyone else thanks. ill get the bars and probably be pretty happy! i never go into a part thinking it will be night and day but i think ill really feel a difference. springs and/or sturts can come much later if i need more.
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