Subaru WRX Forum banner

Snapped Lateral Link

18K views 28 replies 10 participants last post by  Vew 
#1 ·
Hit a sharp turn about 50mph, heard a huge thud and my rear end went light. Everything seemed fine until I made some other tight turns and felt like my rear end was trying to fishtail. Heard some nasty noises over speed bumps. Wheel almost freaking fell off on my way home!

Turned out I snapped my rear lateral link and bent my rear sway bar. Looks like it's not such a rare problem.

Broken Rear Lateral Link - ClubWRX Forum - Subaru Impreza WRX and STi Community and Forums

Here are some photos







Probably gonna end up getting the Whiteline Rear Lateral Link Kit.. Man what a day.
 
See less See more
3
#4 ·
Ouch ! I know you're not a fan of E-bay parts, but I'd probably check some of those link sets out. You can always inspect the pillow balls and overall construction, and send them back if they look cheesy. Are you going with the same sway bar and links, or will you take the opportunity to try something new ?

The link job will likely involve a lot of PB blaster, a 6' cheater bar, air wrenches and some cursing. The long bolt that goes through both links and the hub can be a real pain. Have fun !Thumbs Up
 
#7 ·
Ya, it seems to affect people with upgraded sway bars and/or endlinks. Defiantly going to do it myself. I'm just unsure how this "adjustable" crap is supposed to be done.

If you haven't noticed the rust and never lived here before, one might think salt is an export of ours along with coal ;) Damn you WVDOT. They pour that crap like it's pancake syrup.
 
#9 ·
I remember an STi that a friend of mine was setting up for circuit racing, he used Perrin lateral links, the downside to those at least was that you had to adjust them (one side, believe was the passenger side) when unbolted from the car, there was sometind that wouldn't let the wrench in for adjustment...
 
#14 ·
Augh, kinda wish I saw that before I installed them. Oh well, they should hold until after winter. I didn't realize how much vibrations you'd feel with this kit. It's pretty crazy. I like it though.
 
#15 ·
Yeah I rolled with mine bent a few extra days waiting for a reply from Whiteline on if I should be using them. Since the adjustment is now in the bar itself, the adjustable bolts are to be replaced with these. I don't think it is a huge deal but Whiteline called the factory adjuster bolts "unreliable".
 
#17 ·
I just snapped one of mine in the exact same spot on the link, just on the drivers side. I was trying to figure out why the car was pulling so weird. It almost seemed like torque steer when I got on it, but then it kicked back the other way when I let up. I got out to start looking things over and noticed an inch or so of tow-in on the LR. Looked underneath and it looked just like Vew's picture only opposite side.

I gotta go the quick and easy route for now and just replace the broken one. $62 shop cost from Subaru, will have it tomorrow. I'm not looking forward to getting the big ass long bolt that goes through the links and knuckle out. Good thing I work at a shop with some persuasive tools !
 
#18 ·
Damn, could have mine for free! That's assuming that's not the side I had to remove with a torch (destroyed bushings). Oh, and check your sway bar condition. When I snapped mine, it bent the crap out of my aftermarket RSB.
 
#20 ·
Saw your post Kirt, and feel your pain. But on the bright side you get to build a stout short block !Thumbs Up

Gotta get mine fixed fast, as I'm down to one car currently and scheduled to thrash it at High Plains Raceway on Friday !
It looks like my 25mm Cobb hollow bar survived OK
 
#24 ·
Do you think if you upgraded the lateral links when you did the sway bars you would avoid the snapping problem or are the aftermarket links not that much stronger?
 
#25 ·
Perrin endlink problem

the lateral link failure is actually caused by the Perrin endlinks. The spherical ball joints allow the endlink to flop over to one side, causing undue stress on the lateral link. Perrin now makes poly bushings to go on either side of the lower spherical ball joint keeping it in alignment and not allowing it to flop over. Even though Perrin's poor design causes this problem, they charge for the bushings that fix the problem. Most likely to avoid being held responsible for the problem. Everyone that I know that uses the stock plastic/rubber endlinks has NOT had this problem. Sorry for replying to an old thread, but it was a matter of safety. I have had no issues with my lateral links since installing the bushings. Because I had to pay for the bushings that should have been free I no longer do business with Perrin.
 
#27 ·
the lateral link failure is actually caused by the Perrin endlinks. The spherical ball joints allow the endlink to flop over to one side, causing undue stress on the lateral link. Perrin now makes poly bushings to go on either side of the lower spherical ball joint keeping it in alignment and not allowing it to flop over. Even though Perrin's poor design causes this problem, they charge for the bushings that fix the problem. Most likely to avoid being held responsible for the problem. Everyone that I know that uses the stock plastic/rubber endlinks has NOT had this problem. Sorry for replying to an old thread, but it was a matter of safety. I have had no issues with my lateral links since installing the bushings. Because I had to pay for the bushings that should have been free I no longer do business with Perrin.

We all live and learn. It's not the first time that Perrin did something shady. But, I don't want to bash a Seller of merchandise too much. :p
 
#26 ·
Holy Old Post!

Glad to hear you got everything sorted out 3 years ago Vew! hahahah :D

This is actually pretty common with large rear swaybars and sticky tires. I've seen it happen with stock and aftermarket end links, so it's not a fault of the end link design. In reality the Non-STi lat links just aren't designed to withstand as much stress in that concentrated area. The larger swaybar puts additional stress on the junction between the endlink bracket and the control arm and the arm shears at the weld.

Best bet is to replace the rearmost lat links with a stronger design like the Whiteline or DME arms. You can buy them in full sets of 4 or just the rear pairs if you are on a budget.

Check our site for more info:

Whiteline: Whiteline Suspension Adjustable Control Arms 13 12 11 Subaru Impreza

DME: DME Suspension Rear Lateral Link Arms 07 06 05 04 03 Subaru Impreza

Hope this helps someone else out the next time this post gets bumped in 3 years! lol
 
#29 ·
I like people bringing up old posts. Just means people are using the search function!

Perrin on top of other personal bad experiences has left a sour taste in my mouth even excluding this situation. However, I do not blame them for this failure. I think it's common enough for it to happen; most notably, those of us with upgraded RSBs.

My vehicle had to be towed out of a ditch several months back using the RSB so that is likely what added to the point of failure. It's just another risk for people to note in the future. I kept the RSB btw as part of my wall of shame. I also have a mangled STi BBS wheel in the collection.

I love the Whiteline set I have installed. It's beefy. And so far, combined with the Eibach kit has proven to be quite the combo. I just have no where near as much mileage on them compared to the parts that failed. I created "how-to's" for both in the DIY section of the forum for those of you interested.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top