Im looking to buy some slotted rotors and i need some help which are a good quality for the price? any i should stay away from and any that i should look at more than others???
why not just turn the rotors that you have on there now? Are they below spec?
I have the Rotora Cryo treated slotted rotors. did I notice any difference when i installed them? NO.
Nosenuggets can better answer this question for you.
i have powerslot slotted rotors and i didnt notice anything but they do stop any pad glaze that may occur. when it comes time to get new ones im just going to get some dba rotors
I can't see why your worried about slotted rotors. You should have the brembo brakes, no? That shit is good enough IMHO. Huge difference in them over standard wrx brake system. Not sure about the 04s. But it should have the EBD also...electronic brake distribution system. Which balances out the braking power to make you stop better.
i have power slots on my car for over 35,000 miles and have had no probs with them at all, by buying slotted rotors they wont warp as bad nor as fast they keep the temp down, so there is an advantage to buying them cause they will last longer than stock ones.
the reason your rotors are lasting is likely the metallurgy is good, it's not the slotting- slotted rotors of the same composition will actually last less (as some material is removed for the slots) long
many of the higher end rotors are slotted (some the only way the come)- they are good rotors because of the way they are made, not because they are slotted
Yeah, my brembos make enough brake dust as is. I don't need to amplify it anymore. In a weeks time my rims are covered. Plus, it doesn't help that i occasionally drive fast and then have to stop fast...heh !Thumbs Up But, still...to each his own i guess.
Unless you track your car your wasting your money on any brake modifications. let me say that again to be perfectly clear, unless you drive your car on circuit race tracks you are wasting your money on ANY, yes, ANY brake modifications short of decent pads. brakes do not stop your car, your tires do. all the brakes do is absorb the heat generated by slowing 3200lbs down.
buying slotted rotors to reduce glazing on your pads is ridiculous. if your pads require bedding then just bed them. it takes 10 minutes.
I agree with vew on that one. But I also agree with nuggets too.
To me the pedal was so mushy it did not inspire confidence even in day to day driving, the SS lines helped a lot which made me feel better, not necesarrily helped performance.
Id go for some regular DBA blanks or something like that.
Easier on pads, dust, and wear usually. Unless you want to be like all the SuPeR CoOl StReEt RaCeR guys in Reno.
by mushy im assuming you mean the peddle had a lot of travel. thats not fixed by SS lines, the bleed required after the ss line install is what fixed that. the SS lines will give the peddle a slightly firmer feel, but by themselves wont reduce peddle travel.
Most people associate "break feel" with how hard they have to push on the petal to get the desired break response. harder lines increase the breaking done per bit of force you mash (at least under partial breaking) hence they improve "feel".
negative ghostrider. lines wont increase the mechanical advantage of the petals or the pedals. it will however change the feedback and resistance in the pedals.
we're saying the same thing and arguing about it again.
I press X hard
Given rubber lines, the petal will depress Y far and result in some fixed breaking
Given steel lines, the petal will depress Z far and result in some fixed breaking
The Z is less than Y even though the breaking is the same. They FEEL like you have to press less to give the desired results.
you only need more breaks when you experience break fade. Drag racing won't give you break fade. Run 200mph trap speed if you want, your stock breaks are fine for it. The rest of the car maybe not so much but that's not the point of your question, right?
I've had brake fade before drag racing....thats why I asked...it wasnt necesarily legal dragging....but what happened was I raced a guy from a stop light to another light, and then again from that light to the next one, on that second race at the end I had break fade and was pretty much stading up on the brake pedal for the car to stop which it barley did and it was super scary...this was in my Integra WITH upgraded rotors and pads....
The problem there is the asshat behind the wheel, not the brakes. The scenario you're describing sounds more like the fluid got too hot and not really a pad/rotor/caliper capability issue. Probably not a properly maintained break system.
brake fluid needs to be flushed on occasion. it needs to be bled regularly. air in a hydrolic system will overheat considerably faster then one that does not have air in it.
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