light weight rotors - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #16 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyWRX View Post
"Light Weight Rotors" wont do anything but warp faster
Where did youget this from? I've never heard/read anything that supports this.

Lightweight rotors will both reduce unsprung weight as well as allow your bearings to cool faster.

Big Sky uses 2-piece DBAs and I don't think he's ever had any warping issues with them.
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post #17 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by kh15 View Post
what! how can you say that with slotted rotors and hawk hps pads your cars stock 60-0 brake time are not improved!!?
Upgrading to wider tires will improve braking more than upgrading braking compents in an everyday driving situation.

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post #18 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by YELOWRX View Post
I created this thread to discuss light weight rotors that can fit on the stock WRX rims. If people want to discuss the reasons why you should or shouldn't upgrade their rotors please start another thread or read about the tons of info on the subject already in these forums.

I would love the know the weight of the stock rotors other than having to take them off and weigh them myself. I would also like any suggestions and weights on rotors that are lightweight and fit under the 02-03 stock rims.

Also another question, are the Eagle HP plus pads really worth the extra $$ over the HPS ones?

And if Ian ever reads this, on that link you gave above, were you referring to the 4000 or the 5000 series dba rotors?

And I know rotors don't help braking that much, I just want some light ones.

Right now my idea is :
Stock calibers
Hawk HPS pad
Goodridge Brake Lines
Some DOT4 brake fluid (any suggestions?)
and some slotted rotors. (kinda leaning to dba 4000 now)

Any specs on weights of different rotors would be awesome but I don't expect it.

(Also car is 03 WRX, daily driver that will see 1 maybe 2 track days / year and will have to deal with snow and salt)

Thanks - YELOWRX
Just a reminder on what I wanted to discuss in this thread, I've only had 1 response so far on this topic.
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post #19 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwtarbaj View Post
Where did youget this from? I've never heard/read anything that supports this.

Lightweight rotors will both reduce unsprung weight as well as allow your bearings to cool faster.

Big Sky uses 2-piece DBAs and I don't think he's ever had any warping issues with them.
Let me rephrase how i said that. if you drill or slot rotors you can not have them turned. And if your rotors start warping as i have never had a set of brakes that didnt worp. That means you have to buy new rotors. Also there are A LOT better ways to lower unsprung weight with wheels and tires. I have sloted rotors on my car and also have a set of wilwood calipers on the front of my car. All they do is drive my ABS NUTS. They were on my car when i bought it. Now i drive my car on a lot of Back mountin roads and get a lot of heat in them. And i still get brake fade. i need to flush them out and out some good fluid in them. but if you put BIGGER brakes on the car it wont reduce the unsprung weight anyways. So unless you have a good set of wide tires and do hard driving that unless you go to the track on regular bases then you dont need them.

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post #20 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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I already have light weight rims and wheels that combined come in at about 3-4 lbs lighter than stock on each corner (225 wheels). And I am not going to upgrade the calibers, just rotors, pads, lines, and fluid. The reason I am changing them is that I already drive harder than the stock system will allow (warped rotors with still plenty of pad left). I also don't want to waist my money, so if there was a good set of lighter rotors (oem replacements) that cost just a little more, I would just get them. I have also heard that the stock pad are what is really holding me back, and it is probably pads overheating and "welding" residue on them that warped them. But since I warped the rotors, have to replace them too.
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post #21 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YELOWRX View Post
I already have light weight rims and wheels that combined come in at about 3-4 lbs lighter than stock on each corner (225 wheels). And I am not going to upgrade the calibers, just rotors, pads, lines, and fluid. The reason I am changing them is that I already drive harder than the stock system will allow (warped rotors with still plenty of pad left). I also don't want to waist my money, so if there was a good set of lighter rotors (oem replacements) that cost just a little more, I would just get them. I have also heard that the stock pad are what is really holding me back, and it is probably pads overheating and "welding" residue on them that warped them. But since I warped the rotors, have to replace them too.
It's calipers http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake .And you don't always have to replace the rotors. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

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post #22 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 09:02 PM
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just have the rotors turned

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post #23 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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bout the spelling... as mosc says "Engineers can't spell, sorry!"

And trust me, these rotors need replaced...

Got the DBA 4000 series slotted rotors from Scooby Tuner.

BTW hes giving pretty good discounts in his "Everything is on sale in July" thing in the Vender's section.

I'm gonna weigh the news ones and compare them with the stockers once they come in.
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post #24 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 09:49 PM
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new stock rotors or your worn out ones????

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post #25 of 26 Old 07-15-2007, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have access to new stock rotors (unless you want to buy 1 front and rear one for me), and I know that the old ones have 60k miles on them, so I will post that with my weighing.
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post #26 of 26 Old 07-20-2007, 11:24 PM
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oe WRX front rotors (298x24) weigh right at 14 lbs, the 4000's will actually come in ~ .5 lbs more, but that's OK more mass = good as far as rotors go. The DBA rotors wil last longer under harsh conditions (ie track days) vs oe or other "cheap" rotors due to the make up fo the rotor. There are two schol of thoughts on rotors and track days- neither wrong IMO- school of thought #1 buy high quality rotors that will last longer (ofcourse these cost more)- school of thought #2- buy the absolute cheapest rotors you can and replace them when worn- I've never done a scientific experiment to see what comes out ahead, but instead have ponied up the $ and gone w/ #1, there are lots and lots of guys that subscribe to #2 and they may well be right (cost by cost comparo)

The DBA rotors in addition to giving you longer life, also have few other advantages (albeit minor)- they are slightly over sized 295x25- this adds to the mass (as dos the unique pillar constructin).

Two piece rotors wills have shave some weight, but not a lot- the 5000's weigh 12.7 lbs- so roughly 1.5 lbs/side- the real advantage to two piece rotors is the aluminum hat dissipates heat better (quicker) whic saves on wheel bearings- the weight savings is gravy

They never caught on, partly due to cost, partly due to their heat properties (or lack of them), but MMC (metal matrix composite) saved significant weight over iron rotors. Carbo fiber rorts are slowly catching on- they also offer significant weight savings and are very long lived. It may not too long befoer we see these offered for "street" cars

Fair amount of misinformation in this thread, but I'll let the reader sort through the right and wrong

Mike

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