Does anyone have camber plates on their car and if so how do you measure your adjustments?
i know this isnt a direct answer to your question, but do you plan on doing coilovers eventually? or just springs and struts? i ask this because most coilovers have adjustable camberplates as apart of the package. but again i know this is not an answer just wanted to throw this out to you if you are in the market.
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Gregory-
keep it in the dirt.
Most camber plates have tic marks on the sliding parts so you can adjust them how much you want. Most people take the car in with the camber plates set at full positive or 0, then have the camber bolts maxed out and toe set, then they adjust the camber plates and just add the camber from the original alignment.
Um… why exactly do you want to adjust the camber on your street car?
A couple of reasons, the first of which is I'd like to relatively easily do my own alignments as there are no decent shops in my area. Another reason is that I highly value handling capability and want to adjust camber settings to dial in the car to my liking.
I have noltecs in the front only, and got exactly the track (but streetable) allignment specs I was looking for. For me, rears would be overkill. (overbudget)
First they are very good way to increase neg camber- typically 1-2 degrees additional over stock (stock setting can appraoch -1.3 give or take)- some plates yield more than others.
Most plates can also be orientated for both caster and camber gains- this is at the sacrafice for maximum neg camber, but often you get plenty this way- w/ the bonus of additional positive caster.
Camber plates can add NVH, some are more prone, others less.
Most camber plates add to ride height- typically 5-10mm. One notable exception is the RCE plates- they are unique in they add no ride height and even have a model that actually lowers the front ride height (~8mm)- this is WITHOUT penalty to bump travel.
Camber is not something you change will nilly becasue as you change camber your toe changes as well (toe can eat your tires). You can w/ the right plates have a "street" setting and a "track" setting. You choose a camber setting that is street friendly and measure toe, you then move the camber where you want it and measure for toe again. You have your toe settings for the street that at 0 or toed in- when you move to the track setting this moves to toe out (which can be advantageous on the track). When you move back to your street setting the toe moves w/ it where you want it. You want to insure that you have way to accurately repeat these settings.
Camber plates moves the SAI, which in turn effects scrub radius. This change might necessitate slightly lower offset wheels to keep scrub close to or at 0.
Always INSURE that the camber plates are set exactly the same side to side (I prefer to have them maxed out on both sides to accomplish this) then adjust you final camber #'s w/ the oe eccentric bolts. If they are not the same side to side, your SAI will not be the same and your car will pull.
They also make camber plates for the rear as well- there is no camber adjustment w/ the oe components in the rear so this is one way to adjust camber in the rear- the same "rules" apply in the rear.
Not all camber plates may be compatible w/ the strut you have- make double sure before purchasing.
Like most things you get what you pay for- avoid knock offs/cheapies like the plague- this is not a place to skimp.
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