bremo problem - Subaru WRX Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-10-2008, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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bremo problem

hey guys, i bought a front brembo kits from a guy who had them moved from his sti, i installed them on my 07 wrx hoping that my brake issue will be solved. i always had this problem which is every time im driving quick on the roads wheather its upwards or downwords after baking a couple of times i feel the pedal get loose and go more inwards when i press and i feel my car isnt stopping anymore. Even now with brembo i still have the same issue my car doesnt stop well when they arent thatt hott, and when they are they barely stop. i put dot 5.1 brake fluid it didnt help, i changed my pads i put ferodo premium its still happens. IM GOING TO GO CRAZY PLEASE ANYONE FIND ME A SOLTION. i want to speed and i want to use my brakes and i want them to do their job, the car is made for this kind of driving, arent the brakes supposed to help? thaks. Nicolas.
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-10-2008, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas316 View Post
hey guys, i bought a front brembo kits from a guy who had them moved from his sti, i installed them on my 07 wrx hoping that my brake issue will be solved. i always had this problem which is every time im driving quick on the roads wheather its upwards or downwords after baking a couple of times i feel the pedal get loose and go more inwards when i press and i feel my car isnt stopping anymore. Even now with brembo i still have the same issue my car doesnt stop well when they arent thatt hott, and when they are they barely stop. i put dot 5.1 brake fluid it didnt help, i changed my pads i put ferodo premium its still happens. IM GOING TO GO CRAZY PLEASE ANYONE FIND ME A SOLTION. i want to speed and i want to use my brakes and i want them to do their job, the car is made for this kind of driving, arent the brakes supposed to help? thaks. Nicolas.

first problem... dont mix diffrent rate brake fluids... flaush the system and start again...
the pedal goes to the floor slowly..?? sounds like a master cylinder problem, or possible leak....
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-11-2008, 08:35 AM
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sounds like a master cylinder problem, or possible leak....
Exactly what I was thinking as I was reading his post.

Mike
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-11-2008, 01:19 PM
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full system flush is priority #1. while your doing the flush you should be able to see if you master is leaking. after the flush make sure you do a proper bleed. it should require 2 people.
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post #5 of 10 Old 03-11-2008, 03:31 PM
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Sounds like you have air in your brake lines ^^^^^flush the system and bleed the brake lines.
And I do think the cap for the brake fluid says use Dot 3 Fluid, why did you use dot 5.1???
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-11-2008, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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dot 5.1 is an upgrade, on every site you see brake upgrade they say use dot 5.1. i didnt mix fluids, how exactly should i flush? and how should i check for leak, and how should i know if i have a cylander problem, and whats a bleed?? thanks guys
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-11-2008, 08:54 PM
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did you change the master cylinder when you installed these new components? i know some lines are rated for only certain DOT rated fluids.

checking for leaks is easy, touch the master and see if there is fluid on the outside.

if the cylinder has inconsistent pressure across its range of travel then its probably bad if you know it is an airless system.

pretty much all of the above is moot if you dont know what a bleed is. if you just pulled off the old components, slapped on the new ones, pulled the old fluid out and filled the cylinder with the new stuff and went on your way the system is just chock full of air. there can be ZERO, as in less then a tiny bit of air in any hydrolic system. the calipers have these little bleeder valves on them. you hook up a some brake line to it with a bottle or catch can on the end and someone sits in the car and pumps fluid through the system untill no air comes out and its a constant stream of fluid. you have to do this at every corner. usually starting at the corner that has the most brake line between it and the master and move around the car furthest to closest. you also need to make sure you keep filling the cylander or you will run out of fluid and pull is a huge gulp of air and start all over again. be very slow and smooth with your brake application during the bleed, dont just hammer the peddle down a few times and call it done. the bleeder valve requires a wrench to loosen and tighten. be sure the peddle is DEPRESSED when you tighten the bleeder valve. you will most likley go through a few bottles of fluid to bleed all 4 corners. when i say ZERO air i mean it, no bubbles no nothing, constant stream of fluid. use clear tubing to monitor the consistency as it comes out.

you know what. better yet. take it to a shop and spend the $40 to have someone else do it.

edit:
god damn i love google
How to Bleed Your Brakes - Step-by-Step Expert Advice - Popular Mechanics

i didnt bother to read it but the pictures look close. someone else give that a once over and make sure im not providing pure shit. time to leave work, w00t.
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-12-2008, 10:04 AM
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Bleeding The Brakes - ScoobyMods

Use that or the PDF in post#9 is really good.

Mike
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-12-2008, 01:39 PM
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one of your brake lines must be pinch and leaking, and you gots air in your lines also.
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-16-2008, 01:16 PM
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5.1 is fine, re-bleed is a good idea though

you may also be experiencing knock back- goes something like this- your going through the twisties and as you do so there is some flex in the bearings and it allows the rotor to push the piston inwards- you go to press the brakes and it feels like there is nothing there (pistons are pushed inwards)- tap the brake and then apply pressure- all good

the larger diameter the rotor the more pronounced it tends to be

also be aware that the 06/07 WRX went to a smaller master cylinder- 1" vs 1 1/16"- when you put Brembos on the front (that have very large pistons) and combine it w/ the smaller master cylinder your going to get a softer pedal than you had before w/ the FHI 4 pots (smaller pistons)

Mike

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