I wholeheartedly agree that turning them is the right way and shouldn't cost more than $7 per rotor. If you can feel any kind of a lip on the outer edge with your thumbnail, turn them. If not...
Deglaze them with course a 3M coarse scotchbrite pad or very fine wet/dry sandpaper. clean the surface thoroughly with brake cleaner before reassembling. The purpose of deglazing is that brake pads are designed to leave a very thin residue of the friction material on the rotor, so the pad isn't just grabbing bare metal. Each time you brake that gets rubbed off and a new layer left behind.
I've never used Hawk HPS, but would highly recommend checking their website for bedding instructions for those pads. This is your very first breaking in process so to speak. It's extremely important with race compound pads, and I'd be surprised if Hawk doesn't have a procedure for those. The bedding process is specifically to create that first layer of friction material on the rotor.
With all that said, being a DD it may not really matter that much, but I recommend doing things correctly for the peace of mind it provides. manshow is correct re the Superblue, however if you do decide to track the car, you've already got a fluid that has a very high boiling point so you won't experience fade.
BTW, ATE makes super yellow too, so when you purge your old brake fluid for new, you'll know that you've gotten all the old (blue) fluid out just by the color. I'm running yellow currently