'06 WRX Suspension Upgrade Review - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 01-25-2007, 06:47 PM
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where did you get the rear sb and pinks?
Nevermind, I see them @ genuinesubaruparts.com

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Last edited by BithellWgn06; 03-29-2007 at 10:48 AM.
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#17 Old 01-25-2007, 06:48 PM
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Nice Pics BTW and good choice on color

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#18 Old 06-06-2007, 10:17 AM
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May I ask why you decided not to go with an adjustable coilover?
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#19 Old 06-06-2007, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevarian113 View Post
May I ask why you decided not to go with an adjustable coilover?
Are there better handling WRXs out there? No doubt about it, but I bet few if any of them ride as comfortably as mine, especially on less-than-smooth roads.


Total cost of parts = $1645, or $595 for just the suspension components.

If your objectives are the same as mine (improved handling with little decrease in ride comfort), I can recommend this combination of parts.

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#20 Old 06-07-2007, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BithellWgn06 View Post
Are there better handling WRXs out there? No doubt about it, but I bet few if any of them ride as comfortably as mine, especially on less-than-smooth roads.


Total cost of parts = $1645, or $595 for just the suspension components.

If your objectives are the same as mine (improved handling with little decrease in ride comfort), I can recommend this combination of parts.
Thanks for the requote.. i needed that *rolls eyes*

It is easily arguable that an adjustable set of coilovers would give you a great ride quality but the versatility of height adjustment and camber, etc.... Curious why you chose the springs.. Was it the cost factor?
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#21 Old 06-10-2007, 11:37 PM
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this may seem like a stupid question but how do you guys know whether or not your car is under steering or over steering? i know what both are and understand the physics with each but i really have a hard time telling when im just taking turns at a moderate speed on the street. are you guys going to the track and pushing your car harder and harder around turns intil the back kicks out or you have to correct steering to keep the front end on the line?
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#22 Old 06-11-2007, 07:17 PM
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Take it to a roadcourse or autocross event... You will see what everyone is talking about. Learn to learn your car there and you will notice every little improvement as they come. Mine is bone stock and does great on the mtn roads (Mt Evans was fun yesterday), but I get it to the track and its a whole different story.
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#23 Old 06-11-2007, 10:21 PM
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Here`s my example. I would run the car a little hard on the clover leafs and notice that the steering wheel would turn more than the direction of the car and the faster I would go the more the front tires would squeal. Once I changed the swaybars (22mm F/ 22mm adj. R) this understeer was less obvious , almost evened out. I decided to try the hardest setting (coming from the middle setting) and at higher speed the rear just felt a little more loose. Like Chevarian said I am am sure the track time would speak clearer to you and you would get a better feel of this subtle changes.

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#24 Old 06-12-2007, 12:34 PM
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per GO4IT Racing schools training a couple of weeks ago, If the car gets squirly as a reaction of something (too much acceleration, braking, steering) do the exact opposite and give it less of that action. Or figure out how to get traction in otherways (suspension modification) If you feel it understeer, it is because you are not getting enough traction with the front wheels for them to turn. Let off the gas and the body weight goes down on the front more. Or stiffen up the suspension so that the body does not buck/roll when turning. That is what causes the understeer. The oversteer can be cause by too stiff in the rear without matching the front up.

Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
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#25 Old 10-26-2007, 03:13 PM
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We maxed out front camber, ending up with minus 1 degree on each side. In the rear, one side was minus 1.4 degrees, the other minus 1 degree. We installed one camber bolt - on the minus 1.4 side - to even out the rear, ending up with minus 1 degree camber on all four corners. I had hoped for more in the front, but was pleased we were able to get the rear to 1 degree.


I am confused.
You put a camber bolt in the -1.4 side to give you "more" camber and ended up with -1?
Would`nt it be the other way around. You put the bolt in to get more negative camber from -1.0 to -1.4 ( if you were looking at the passenger rear tire from the rear then this \ would be more negative camber, this / would be more positive camber (i.e. -1.4 to -1.0) and this | would be zero camber

Thanks!

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#26 Old 11-20-2007, 03:26 PM
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pic?

Red x on the "after" springs pics
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#27 Old 03-13-2008, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BizTerp View Post
Great review. I have a very similar setup and echo your thoughts. One additional bonus of getting springs through STi or SPT is, after checking with my dealership, the stock struts are still covered under warranty!

My dealership told me that only the springs themselves are covered, not the struts (as a related component). Who's corrrect? I'd love to install a set of these.
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#28 Old 03-13-2008, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Canonshooter View Post
Determining your objectives when doing suspension upgrades is the first and most important step of the process. Some will want to maximize handling for competition, others may do suspension mods entirely for aesthetic reasons (lowering). My goal has been to improve handling as much as possible with little or no effect on ride quality. I realized from the outset that this would take some planning, and that I would not get the same results as someone who is not concerned about ride quality. With that out of the way, here are the parts and pieces that I used.

My first additon was new tires - P225/45ZR-17 Kumho SPT summer performance tires. Looking at the the user feedback on Tirerack.com, the tire was generally praised for its excellent grip on both dry and wet surfaces, while some complained that the sidewall is not stiff enough for competiton use. This was exactly what I was looking for - a tire with good grip, but without an excessively stiff sidewall that hurts ride comfort. I mounted the tires on a set of Rota 17 X 7.5 (48mm offset) Subzero wheels. This wheel/tire combo weighs the same as the factory wheels with the 215/45-17 RE92 tires. The tires performed as expected, and are quieter than the stock RE92s as well.

Next up was a set of springs. After a short stint with Prodrives, I installed the Subaru SPT Pink springs. As opposed to the Prodrives, these springs have enough ride height to maintain front control arm geometry (an important consideration for handling) and suspension travel, and have a higher spring rate to reduce body roll. Out of all of the suspension mods I have done, these had the most noticeable effect on ride quality, but are not nearly as much as springs with less suspension travel (lower ride height). The addition of the springs in combo with the wheels/tires made a big difference in the handling ability of the car, with only a very minor hit on ride comfort.

Immediately following the spring install, I had a performance alingment done on the car at a Local Sunoco station that has a Hunter machine. We maxed out front camber, ending up with minus 1 degree on each side. In the rear, one side was minus 1.4 degrees, the other minus 1 degree. We installed one camber bolt - on the minus 1.4 side - to even out the rear, ending up with minus 1 degree camber on all four corners. I had hoped for more in the front, but was pleased we were able to get the rear to 1 degree. Toe was set at minus .02 degrees (toe in) as per my request to help with straight line stability on the highway. The alignment made a big difference - more than I expected. I suspect even a stock WRX would really benefit from a "performance alignment."

Last month, I replaced the OEM 17mm RSM with a Subaru 20mm bar. I reused the stock links to help keep NVH in check. The heavier RSB made a difference, but not as much as the springs. With the heavier RSB, slight oversteer became evident for the first time, but it felt as though the front end was still trying to roll too much. At this point, the car handled immensely better than stock - no comparison. But I knew I was going to have to do something in the front.

I picked up a 22mm Whiteline FSB a few weeks ago and finally had the chance to do the install. Once I removed the subframe and jacking plate, the bar was very easy to swap out. I reused the OEM links, cleaned up the subframe and jacking plate and put it all back together.

I have to say, the FSB made a huge difference - perhaps as much as the springs. On the cloverleafs, the car feels glued to the road. Around and 'round the cloverleafs I went, pushing the car faster and faster. Squealing tires (front and rear) finally gave way to just a touch understeer, but at a much higher speed than I have been able to do before. The car feels extremely well balanced and poised, as if all of the parts are "singing in harmony." I am very pleased with how well this combination of mods has fulfilled my original objective.

Are there better handling WRXs out there? No doubt about it, but I bet few if any of them ride as comfortably as mine, especially on less-than-smooth roads.

Here is a break down of the costs to get to this point (includes shipping costs where applicable);

Wheels, tires and lug nuts - $1050
SPT Pink springs - $260
Alignment - $95
Camber bolt set - $35
RSB - $95
FSB - $110

Total cost of parts = $1645, or $595 for just the suspension components.

If your objectives are the same as mine (improved handling with little decrease in ride comfort), I can recommend this combination of parts.
Excellent review, addresses many of the issues I'm considering with my car as well. Where did you source the STI springs from at that price? TIA.
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#29 Old 04-23-2008, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwrex View Post
Red x on the "after" springs pics

+1


I am in the market now, and curious how this looks...
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#30 Old 12-13-2008, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevarian113 View Post
Thanks for the requote.. i needed that *rolls eyes*

It is easily arguable that an adjustable set of coilovers would give you a great ride quality but the versatility of height adjustment and camber, etc.... Curious why you chose the springs.. Was it the cost factor?

Cost primarily, but also not yet sold on getting coilovers (at least not sure which ones). I will eventually, but I think between all of the other suspension mods (engine /tranny mounts, rear subframe and outrigger bushings, fender braces, pitch stop, ALK, tophats and braces) and technique, I feel I have a ways to go before I fork out the cash on coilovers.

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